• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

EdG_Ohio

Member
  • Posts

    426
  • Joined

  • Last visited

  • Days Won

    2

Posts posted by EdG_Ohio

  1. Since I'm still learning about all of this and I tend to look at things through a mechanical aspect, Is the possible the wear look on the left side of the of wheat image could of been done when made ?
       The die itself seems like it was off-centered a bit and compressed that portion while in the manufacturing process . I don't know what the dies themselves looks like nor the actual process they used back then but it doesn't seem like "wear" to me but compression. I'll have to dig through images I took to see if I can find a better angle since it's going to be a month most likely before the return of the coin.
    This is the only other image I have that shows a different angle on wheat side, doesn't help much.

    1858.FlyingEagle05[1].jpg

  2. Investing vs personal taste/collecting is 2 different worlds, one of which I am constantly in. I enjoy both worlds and one feeds the other.
              If you have gaps in your Eagle proof sets  then fill away and enjoy them now and with those they may enjoy them in the future with you.
     I have a taste for gold proofs and other types but it can be pricey, hence I sell some things to offset my personal wants/needs...I really really like Mexican Gold 50 Pesos for both future investment and the beauty of them...these I'll keep until I'm no longer on this planet, then my kids/grand-kids will be like...wth  haha

  3. I edited my reply.

    There really isn't any difference between the 2,  is basically a designation given to one so someone can stick a fancy label on the coin holder

    Many of the large online dealers avg price is 1897 for a American Gold Eagle but these are not in a holder. U.S. Mint has them around $2,375.00
  4. Ok, I took a few more images while the sun wasn't to overbearing, best to do on a cloudy day...defused light, and from different angles. The thumbing seems nonexistent, at least to my old eyes, but I do notice minute scratches now than before but shouldn't make a huge difference.

     

    1887P.MorganDollar.Status07.jpg

    1887P.MorganDollar.Status08.jpg

    1887P.MorganDollar.Status09.jpg

    1887P.MorganDollar.Status10.jpg

  5. 7 minutes ago, Just Bob said:

    Those are much better pictures than the normal cellphone shots seen on here.

    Thanks, honestly the Samsung 8+ does a fantastic job, I do have a slight background in photography...and yeah...I took about 100 shots haha. These are all edited only by resizing and cropping on my phone. I use a separate app to "resize" images to take a 3-4mb file to 500k-700k size without losing any definition.

  6. I understand what you are saying...all good. I couldn't get any decent sunlight for a pic taking that's why the 1st image I'm holding it in my hand trying to get some even light on it for clarity. In the image you chose it does give the appearance of off-coloring, I'll take a few more tomorrow and blow them up, maybe dig out my ole Pentax digital...probably dusty haha.

  7. 15 minutes ago, Kirt said:

    Is it the dull patch on the cheek over those marks that looks like thumbing? Trying to learn what to look for before I move into MS coins.

    I tried to search for the term "thumbing" here but to no avail. I really don't think thumbing was done on this coin. If you enlarge the image you can see the surface better and all the minute scratches....but this is just my opinion.

    A quote from elsewhere. "One common variation of nose grease is a process called thumbing, which is used mainly on silver dollars. In this process, the skin oils are rubbed across the desired area, with the thumb acting like a brush, rubbing the oils into the "skin" of the coin. This method is often used to obscure shiny lines or marks on the face of Miss Liberty on Morgan and Peace dollars, and is sometimes so minor that it is nearly undetectable. The breast feathers on Morgan dollars are sometimes "dulled" by this method also, especially when there is a shiny area resulting from contact. When the oils are applied vigorously, the affected areas appear duller, with the luster inhibited. When the coin is tilted under a good light source, the marks or hairlines that have been obscured by the thumbing are visible-though some "thumb" experts are so skillful at this technique that their handiwork is difficult to detect. "

  8. 4 minutes ago, Coinbuf said:

    From the photos the cheek looks thumbed, it may just be the lighting but I'd be concerned that it would be flagged for that.

    In the enlarged version of 1st image there are small marks but they don't seem to be "smoothed" over by thumbing but I am still learning the delicacies of looking for particular telltale signs of "fixes". Thanks.

  9. One of my latest finds is a 1887-P in what I think is in pretty good shape but....<---the but...having been burned on a previous coin that was cleaned by someone and I submitted to NGC for evaluation and came back with the designation of "Cleaned" I'd prefer to get a few opinions 1st before spending any more $$.
      It doesn't seem to have the telltale signs of "rotational twirls" or scrape marks that I've seen in others although it does have a few scratches on the surfaces but after reading about how professionals and others can clean a coin with various liquids and whatnot how can I, at home, make the call if this was done ? or would have have to be sent in for analysis of the surface metal ?
    ...a secondary question is, If a coin, not one in images here, has been cleaned by whatever means will it still maintain the toning that was on it ?
    Images take w/Samsung S8+

    Thanks in advance.
    Ed G.

    1887P.MorganDollar.Status01[1].jpg

    1887P.MorganDollar.Status02[1].jpg

    1887P.MorganDollar.Status03[1].jpg

    1887P.MorganDollar.Status04[1].jpg

    1887P.MorganDollar.Status05[1].jpg

    1887P.MorganDollar.Status06[1].jpg

  10. I am submitting a set of coins that are not in a NGC or PCGS holder. As far as submitting them goes should I remove from sealed 3rd party holder,uscg,  or leave as is and let NGC open them up at facility ?  I ask this because during submission a consent form is required for a PCGS coin/holder being crossed-over but no mention of a 3rd party holder, Can I assume that anything other than a PCGS is not considered a crossover and thereby not needing a consent form to pop open ?

    Thanks
    ----------------------------------------------------
    Received reply from email, form needed even for non ngc or pcgs's.

     

  11. 6 minutes ago, Coinbuf said:

    I don't really see your question??  Are you asking about the mount issue (you note that you removed a case are you talking about the white plastic holder as the case)?  Or are you asking about the value of the coin because it came back in a details holder?
    Yes, the question or even pondering, was about the damaged created by the holder it was first in. I didn't feel the coin was of any particular value but I was unsure on how such a designation would affect any future resale of the coin. Some I keep to collect for my self indulgence and some to resell. I was just curious is all
    This was my 1st time submitting anything to a grading service.

    ....Thanks for the reply.

     

    First anytime you remove a coin from a jewelry mount your chances of getting a details grade are extremely high, jewelry mounts almost always leave an impression on gold coins.  Generic date gold coins like this were very popular coins to place in jewelry mounts so the grading services are very adept at spotting the damage mounts leave.  Second yes 1912 is not a rare or scarce date in the $5 Indian series so its value is going to be melt value for many buyers.  Even if it had straight graded with the current gold prices even generic date MS61 coins are valued close to melt right now.