Sandon

Welcome to the NGC chat board. Your item is quite assuredly a souvenir "replica" (fake) of the rare "Continental Dollar", of which many thousands have been made over many years. Compare the dark, rough surfaces, thick borders, and weak lettering and details of your piece with that of the photos of this genuine one from the NGC Coin Explorer:

I concur with those who have advised you that this coin is not worth the cost of third-party grading. In my opinion, submitting coins to grading services is for those who have substantial experience in grading coins themselves and are able to determine that the coin will likely receive a high enough grade to make the cost worthwhile. Even we sometimes get unpleasant surprises. I recommend that you review this article on the NGC website by Jeff Garrett, a highly experienced and savvy dealer: Jeff Garrett: The Art of Rare Coin Submissions | NGC (ngccoin.com) Your 1898-O Morgan dollar can be protected and enjoyed in a hard plastic holder such as those I described in a post on your topic about the 2003-S cent.

If by "mylar 2x2s" you mean the cardboard holders with the thin mylar windows that are sealed with staples, these are generally not recommended for the long- term storage of anything other than very low value, circulated coins. The mylar window can easily be torn away and the coin exposed to the air or adjacent surfaces, including the staples on adjacent holders. Countless coins have been badly scratched when collectors have impatiently failed to remove the staples completely before removing the coins from these holders. If what you mean is solid mylar (not vinyl) 2x2 coin flips, these are somewhat safer, but the coin can fall out if you aren't careful, and some air does circulate in and out of the holder. Your 2003-S cent may have been touched by bare skin or some other contaminated surface before or while being placed in the flip, eventually resulting in the toning streak. To minimize the risk of "negative" toning, I recommend that uncertified coins that were issued in sealed government packaging or capsules going back to the 1955 "flat pack" proof sets and 1959 mint sets be kept in such packaging or capsules. If this isn't possible, hard plastic lucite or "Snap-Tite" holders or coin capsules are preferable. I have kept coins in modern Whitman and Dansco albums (not folders) for decades with few of the coins toning, but it is important to make sure the coins lie well beneath the top plastic slides to avoid damaging "slide marks". Always be careful not to touch the surfaces of the coins with your bare hands or to allow the coin to come in contact with a surface that isn't clean. You should also make efforts to store your coins in a cool, dark, dry place. High humidity can be especially damaging to coins. As a returning collector, you may benefit from the print and online resources in the following topic. Some of the mentioned publishers also sell coin holders, albums and products that are supposed to inhibit toning.

Absolutely not! A 2003-S proof cent wouldn't worth the cost of certification ($19 grading fee alone) in any event, and the "damage" has already been done. If there is still a chemically active substance on the coin, placing it in a certified holder won't halt the toning process. NGC would charge an additional $25 for its affiliate NCS to attempt to "conserve" it, which would be unlikely to improve its appearance. If the coin isn't still in a sealed proof set, you could try soaking it in acetone, a solvent, to dissolve anything that may still be on the surface. See NGC Search Results | NGC (ngccoin.com) for topics on this chat board for how to use acetone. Bear in mind that acetone is very flammable. How has this coin been stored?

Welcome to the NGC chat board. Yes, the blue streak is the result of a chemical reaction. Both copper and zinc, of which this cent is composed, react and form chemical compounds with a number of substances in both the atmosphere and in surfaces they may touch and may "tone" like this even in mint packaging and certified holders. Presumably, this coin brushed against something that caused the surface of the copper plating to turn blue. Some compounds containing copper, such as copper sulphate, have a blue color. Some collectors actually find bluish "toning" on older copper coins to be attractive, although most probably prefer solid "red" on a cent this recent. A grading service would likely classify the coin as "red and brown" ("RB"). The coin may or may not continue to change in appearance. If it has looked like this for some years now, it is probably stable.

1803 Draped Bust large cent, Stemless Wreath variety (S-243), PCGS graded XF details (obverse scratches): Photos courtesy of Stacks Bowers Galleries.

Here are some more Jefferson nickels from my 1938-64 Whitman bookshelf album. These are coins dated 1940 and 1941, dates that tend to come well struck with full or nearly full steps. 1. 1940, purchased in 1988 for all of 85 cents: 2. 1940-D, purchased between 1976 and 1984: 3. 1941, also purchased between 1976 and 1984 with at least 5 full steps: 3. 1941-D, also purchased between 1976 and 1984 and with 5 full steps: 4. 1941-S small S, acquired in 1987 for $1.25, with partial steps but otherwise quite nice:

Welcome to the NGC chat board. In addition to the sites previously mentioned, doubleddie.com lists doubled dies and other die varieties by date and mint, and error-ref.com describes various types of error coins. Doubled dies are usually classified as die varieties rather than as mint errors. See Variety vs. Mint Error | NGC (ngccoin.com) Please note that the mint has been using a "single squeeze" die making process for several decades now, which has essentially eliminated the production of significant doubled dies. Additionally, it is extremely unusual to find significant mint errors or die varieties of any sort in circulation, and the minor anomalies that are more commonly found, such as plating bubbles on copper plated zinc cents, have little or no market value and are usually not designated by grading services.

It looks to me like someone wiped a dirty finger across this 95% copper coin, ultimately resulting in this streak of greenish black corrosion. Just because the coin came from a solid date uncirculated roll doesn't mean that the coins in the roll haven't been touched by bare hands or exposed to other negative environmental factors or that the roll is an "original" roll containing coins that have all been together since they were minted. It is simply one of the lower grade coins in the roll.

1950 Proof Lincoln cent, PCGS graded PR 64RD, with some cameo contrast, though not designated "CAM":

These should be no problem with sending the two orders in the same box, provided that neither is in the higher "Express" or "Walkthrough" tiers that require special markings on the box. The instructions at ngc-ncs-fillable-pdf-instructions.pdf (ngccoin.com) specifically state (p.4) that "[m]ultiple submissions can be mailed in the same box and can be shipped back together upon request." It is important, however, that you label each coin flip with the correct invoice and line number as shown at How to Package Coins for Submission | NGC (ngccoin.com). I would put a rubber band around the flips containing the five coins on the one submission form and pack the other one with a separate rubber band around its flip. Most questions about submissions can be answered by reviewing the topics under the "Submit" tab on the NGC home page.

1805 Draped Bust half dollar, ex-Pittman, now NGC graded VF 35:

If you want to collect recently minted coins from circulation, you would be better off saving those shiny, bright ones that a cashier or teller hands you from a just opened roll, especially those with a minimum of nicks and scratches. If properly stored in coin albums, tubes or other proper holders, these uncirculated coins may someday have value, if not in your lifetime, then in your children's or grandchildren's. Modern coins that are already worn and discolored like these, some like the 2022-D quarter with green corrosion, possibly copper-nickel chloride, are not and have never been sought by coin collectors. There is no reason to believe that they ever will. (My hypothesis on how they got this way would be that they spent some months submerged in a fountain or "wishing well".) Only rare coins, which these are not, have any value with such impairments, and even they are worth less than unimpaired ones. I've been collecting coins and looking through change for over fifty years. In all that time the only mint error coins I've found are a blank cent planchet and a couple of broadstruck quarters, each worth no more than a few dollars each. I only know one collector who found a significant error coin in circulation, a man now about eighty years old, who a few years ago received in change at a supermarket an uncirculated struck Lincoln cent that had been overstruck by Jefferson nickel dies, perhaps worth a few hundred dollars. It is a once in a lifetime experience, if that. It is vital to learn what actual significant mint errors look like so that you will recognize one that you may be fortunate enough to find.

If by "improper annealing" you mean a clad coin that is missing one of its outer copper-nickel layers due to improper bonding, this clearly isn't one, as the photos of the edge shows that both outer layers are present. Error-ref.com references certain planchet errors from "improper annealing", but your coin doesn't resemble any of them. See Search Results for “annealing” (error-ref.com). Circulated coins like this one are often discolored due to exposure to chemicals in the environment to which they have been exposed or sometimes are just dirty, one of which appears to be the case here. Note that the coins photographed on error-ref.com as examples of actual mint errors are usually in uncirculated condition.

Welcome to the NGC chat board. I assume that the "glob" to which you are referring is in Mankiller's hair beneath the letters "E" and "D". (A photo of the full reverse would be helpful.) This is known as a "die chip" and is regarded as a quality control issue, not a mint error that will command a significant premium. NGC generally will not attribute coins with die chips as either die varieties or mint errors. See Variety vs. Mint Error | NGC (ngccoin.com). You would almost certainly be wasting your money by submitting it.

I don't know to what videos you are referring or on what sites you are watching them, but if they are the ones claiming that valuable coins, including major mint errors, are frequently found in pocket change, they are simply incorrect. Anyone can post almost anything on the Internet! (Most major mint errors are intercepted by coin distributors and bank personnel and sold to coin dealers.) There are some legitimate educational videos on sites such as YouTube from PCGS, NGC, the American Numismatic Association (A.N.A.), the U.S. Mint, and legitimate coin dealers; but there are also many ignorant or fraudulent actors posting videos about coins. If you aren't able to spend less than $80 on a current or recent standard "Redbook" and a grading guide, then at least use legitimate free online resources such as the NGC Coin Explorer and PCGS Coinfacts, to which I refer in the "Resources for New Collectors" topic to which I provided a link. I wanted to see the reverse of the 2010-D Lincoln cent because the dented area of the upper obverse superficially resembles certain types of mint errors known as "partial indent strikes" or "partial brockages" that occur when a blank planchet or a previously struck coin rests on top of a just struck coin while it is still in the press and receives another blow from the dies. The warped, flattened appearance of the reverse suggests that the coin was damaged after it left the mint, possibly by placing another coin on top of it and striking it with a hammer. (The coin also still appears to have shiny glue residue on its obverse.) Here are NGC photos of a genuine partial indent strike and the partly struck blank that had caused the indent, a rare "mated pair":

The only "marks" I see on your coin are marks from contact with other coins or objects. I don't see anything unusual. Perhaps someone else will. Here are photos of the obverse of a 1999 Lincoln cent from the NGC Coin Explorer. I can see no material differences between Lincoln's hair on this coin and on yours.

1884-CC Morgan dollar, uncertified Ch. BU in a GSA "uncirculated" holder: Photos courtesy of Stacks Bowers Galleries, from whom I purchased this coin in 2019.

Please post clear, cropped photos of the full obverse and reverse of this coin. It is very difficult to get an idea of what is going on without such photos. Is the coin mostly a whitish instead of a normal red or brown color as it appears to be in the photos?

It's not my intention to be rude but to make new collectors understand that some level of education is essential to our being able to help them in a meaningful way. That's why I provide links to resources from which they may obtain the knowledge they need. It's also important for new collectors to attend coin shows and coin club meetings where they can see a variety of coins and speak with knowledgeable collectors and dealers. It would take forever for a novice to learn anything by posting coins that appear to have anything unusual about them on a trial-and-error basis. One might also not recognize a coin that actually is rare It also is important for them to understand that coins of significant value are hardly ever found in circulation. It appears that the 2010-D cent just posted is covered with glue residue. If there is a shiny substance over the apparently indented and "bubbly" looking areas of the coin, that is definitely the case, and the coin has no value. If not, please post a photo of the reverse of the coin, which should give us a better idea as to whether the coin may be a mint error.

Perhaps someone on the forum will know what the printing means. The odds are it was to identify the distributor or depositor of the coins or the manufacturer of the wrapper. I've never heard of a coin wrapper of that vintage being collectible or the coins in it being worth more as a roll than individually. You should be able to open the roll at one end without destroying the printed part of the wrapper.

The odds are that this roll contains 40% silver Kennedy half dollars, whether dated 1965, 66, 67, 68-D or 69-D. All are common and have the same values as stated for the 1968-D. If they were obtained at the casino after use in the slot machines, they may include coins that are circulated or damaged and only worth silver value. The wrapper adds no value, and a coin dealer isn't going to open it any more carefully than you could. It is possible that there are pre-1965 90% silver half dollars in the roll that were spent by someone who didn't know that they were already worth a premium, but most had already been removed from circulation by 1968. (I started collecting in 1971, and silver was seldom found in circulation by that time.) I recommend that the roll be opened. We can help you evaluate the contents if it differs from what is expected, and you can post clear photos of the coins. Hold the coins only by their edges, and put them carefully into a clean plastic bag or, preferably, individual coin flips if available.

In reviewing your post again, it appears that you don't even know what date of half dollars the roll contains. You're going to have to open it to see what it actually contains. If it contains half dollars dated 1964 or before, these have 90% silver content and would be worth more in silver alone. If they are dated 1971 or after, they contain no silver and are likely not worth much over face value.

You've been posting examples of exactly the opposite of what interests knowledgeable coin collectors. We are interested in rare coins, coins in superb condition, and coins with significant mint errors, not coins that are damaged, corroded (like these common clad dimes), or exhibit minor anomalies (like die chips) indicative of poor quality control at the mint. I previously provided you with links to legitimate sources of information about mint errors. Here is a link to a topic describing print and online resources that will enable you to identify and grade U.S. coins that may actually be of value:

Welcome to the NGC chat board. When you post on this forum, please tell us what your question is. If you're trying to sell this roll, it should have been posted on the Marketplace forum with an asking price and otherwise in compliance with the rules in the topic there entitled "Coin Marketplace Guidelines". I note that you also improperly posted a topic about this roll on the NGC Registry forum, which is for questions or comments regarding the NGC Registry, not for information about uncertified coins. I'll assume that your friend is trying to ascertain what the coins in this roll are worth. Nearly 247 million 1968-D Kennedy half dollars were minted, so they are quite common. Many uncirculated rolls and even bags still exist. Much of their value is in their silver content, which is $3.59 per coin as of today. Average (MS 63) uncirculated coins retail for $6 each per June's Coin World. A dealer might be willing to pay about $4 per coin or $160 for the roll, if that much. based on the NGC Price Guide, only coins grading MS 66 or higher, which are quite scarce, would be worth the cost of certification. It is highly unlikely that any would grade that high, even if this is an "original" roll. Before posting additional topics, please review the following topic: