Sandon

As usual, the author has provided a nice photo essay about a convention I'm not able to attend. The photos don't automatically appear on my computer screen. I had to click the first photo in each group to load them and advance through them one by one. I would like to note that the "beautiful duck" isn't a duck. It's a Canada goose.

There are genuine 1878 7tf Morgan dollars with the "Reverse of 1879" (scarcer than the "Reverse of 1878", but not rare), but this one is a fairly obvious (likely Chinese) counterfeit as indicated by, for example, the unusually narrow obverse rim, mushy details, odd color and lack of bagmarks. If you thought that the coin might have been genuine, you shouldn't have been holding it in your bare hand.

Welcome to the NGC chat board. I agree that this is likely a damage to the mint mark that occurred after the coin was struck, not an "error" or die variety. If the anomaly on the mint mark had been in the die, all coins struck from that die would show the same anomaly, and this should be a die variety listed on the vamworld.com site. The coin has many other nicks and abrasions from bag storage and circulation and appears to have been improperly "cleaned".

Multi-coin holders are "only available for select bulk submissions of certain coin types" upon confirmation with NGC Customer Service. See NGC Coin Holders | Holders for Coin Protection | NGC. The submission form allows the selection of "oversize", "thick", or "mega" holders but not "multi-coin" holders.

Welcome to the NGC chat board. The NGC Registry forum is for topics relating to the NGC certified coin registry. Questions like yours are best posted on the "Newbie Coin Collecting Questions" forum or the "U.S., World, and Ancient Coins" forum. (The Administrator will likely move it.) You should post clear photos of both sides of the coin that have been cropped to show as little as possible of the surface surrounding the coin. Your coin appears to be from Panama.

Mint errors (as opposed to die varieties) are classified by type of error, not by date or mint. They occur to individual coins as they are manufactured, so, each one is unique in its exact appearance, and the date and mint are generally irrelevant. Die varieties, including doubled dies, are due to specific characteristics of dies, which may produce hundreds of thousands of coins, each or at least most of which would show these characteristics, so they are listed by date and mint. If your coin's anomalous characteristics were created at the mint, it would be a mint error, not a die variety.

Welcome to the NGC chat board. What is your question? This forum is for topics pertaining to the NGC certified coin registry. If you have a question about this coin, you should post it in the "U.S., World, and Ancient Coins" forum or the "Newbie Coin Collecting Questions" forum, preferably with clear, cropped photos of the coin. If you are asking about placing this coin in a registry set, please note that ancient coins are not eligible for the competitive registry but may be placed in custom sets. See the following topic: https://boards.ngccoin.com/topic/432633-ngc-registry-where-do-i-add-my-ancient-coins/

Welcome to the NGC chat board. Many ordinary State quarters were plated or coated with a gold-colored substance by private companies outside the mint for sale as novelties. This appears to be one of them. Is there anything printed on the holder in which the seller appears to have placed the coin?

In my opinion, none of the coins or sets you have posted would be worth the cost of submission to a third-party grading service, including the ones that you purchased in NGC and PCGS holders. Dealers get bulk discounts for such modern pieces, they hope to make money on the few that receive "70" or very high grades for their issues (unlike the ones you bought), and they usually sell the others at cost or for a loss but still for more than the coins could have been purchased in their original sets or uncertified. These dealers also have the knowledge and experience to determine whether the coins they submit have a reasonable chance of achieving sufficiently high grades, which you don't. Unless an individual coin is worth at least several hundred dollars, it isn't financially worthwhile to send it to a grading service. You should enjoy your proof and uncirculated coin sets in their government holders, which adequately protect them and keep them in their historical context. You would have pay NGC a minimum of $19 per coin to have them grade and encapsulate these coins, plus at least $38 per order in processing and return shipping fees and your cost of shipping the coins to NGC. Your money would be better spent learning how to grade and otherwise evaluate coins yourself. (The purported error or variety coins you purchased in the cardboard holders may not actually be such, and the dealer may have been incorrect about them, in which case they might not be worth what you paid.) In your case, it is also important that you learn the English language well enough so that you may better understand books and websites in English. Some of the books and other resources you will need are described in the following forum topic:

1905 Liberty nickel, PCGS graded MS 64: Photos courtesy of Stacks Bowers Galleries.

Welcome to the NGC chat board. Your 1957-D cent resembles an in-collar multiple strike where the planchet (blank) rotated between strikes, but I strongly suspect that it was fabricated (faked) outside of the mint. The multiple images are too localized and only seem to appear on the obverse. See https://www.error-ref.com/?s=multiple+strikes for images and descriptions of genuine pieces. (A multiple strike is a mint error that occurs to a specific coin while being struck; a doubled die, which this definitely isn't, is a die variety caused by doubling in the die itself.) In addition to awaiting additional responses on this forum, you might want to post this coin on the CONECA forum at https://board.conecaonline.org/forum. You can also request an opinion from Jon Sullivan, a respected errors dealer, at https://sullivannumismatics.com/contact-us/.

Welcome to the NGC chat board. As long as you "know nothing about coins", you shouldn't buy any! Knowledge is essential to making the wise purchase of any coin, and you will be ready to make purchases when you can answer your question yourself, which will depend upon your own goals and tastes. We have an old expression, "buy the book before the coin". First, get and study a current (2025) or recent standard edition of A Guide Book of United States Coins, also known as the "Red Book". A grading guide and a current price guide are also basic and essential. See the following forum topics to locate these and other print and online and resources for new collectors: Your education should also include attendance at venues such as coin shows and coin club meetings, where you can examine a variety of coins and speak with knowledgeable collectors and dealers.

The expanded section on dollar coins in the seventh edition of the deluxe ("Mega") Red Book notes Eisenhower dollars erroneously struck on silver clad planchets for the 1972-D (apparently very rare), 1974-D (25-30 known), 1976-D type 2 reverse (possibly unique), and 1977-D (about 20 known). No such error planchet variety is listed for the 1972 (any reverse) or any other Philadelphia issue, nor do I recall hearing of any having been authenticated. The official weight for a copper nickel clad Eisenhower dollar is 22.68 grams, while that for a silver clad piece is 24.59 grams. Tolerances established by the mint were plus or minus 0.907 gram for the copper nickel clad, 0.984 for the silver clad, so a copper nickel clad piece should weigh no more than 23.587 grams, while a silver clad piece should weigh no less than 23.606 grams. Do you have a weight for the coin in question? Obviously, other explanations for a 1972 Eisenhower dollar not showing the copper layer on its edge would be that the coin has been plated or coated with some foreign substance outside of the mint or that it is counterfeit. I have occasionally seen copper nickel clad coins that showed very little if any copper color on the edge, probably due to issues with the clad strip from which the planchets were punched. (Even a silver clad piece should show a somewhat reddish or darker inner (80% copper) layer.) Can you provide images of the coin and its edge?

1872 gold dollar (mintage 3,500), recently NGC graded MS 60:

1946 Lincoln cent PCGS graded MS 66 RD:

Welcome to the NGC chat board. I don't know Russian, but I hope you can translate this. I assume that you want to learn how to submit coins to NGC for third-party grading. Please review the following pages on the NGC website: How to Submit | NGC (ngccoin.com) Coins We Grade | NGC Coin Grading Polices | NGC NGC Services and Fees | NGC (ngccoin.com) My Submissions | Account | NGC (ngccoin.com) You should have sufficient knowledge about your coins to be able to determine that they are worth the cost of third-party grading. Many coins aren't worth it. You should also be able to fill out the submission forms properly. If you don't have this knowledge or ability, you should consider consulting with and perhaps submitting through an NGC member dealer. See Find Coin Shops & Dealers | Coin Dealer Locator | NGC (ngccoin.com)

1888 proof copper nickel three cent piece in old green label PCGS holder as PR 65:

Welcome to the NGC chat board. This is an extremely crude or ludicrous fake that looks nothing like any class of 1804 dated novodel dollar. For one thing, the genuine pieces have crushed lettered edges, not modern looking reeded edges. The only known "Class II" piece was struck over an 1857 Swiss shooting thaler and is in the Smithsonian Institution. See https://www.pcgs.com/coinfacts/coin/1804-1-restrike-class-ii/414488.

As a practical matter, a circulated 1974 cent is only worth face value, as federal regulations prohibit the melting of copper alloy cents. It is extremely unusual to find a coin of any real value in circulation, but if you want to learn more about U.S. coins (such as their mintages and which ones may have collector value) and how to collect them, you should obtain a current (2025) or recent edition of A Guide Book of United States Coins, also known as the "Red Book". The current edition is available from its publisher at whitman.com. Many additional resources for new collectors are described in the following topic pinned to the top of this forum:

Welcome to the NGC chat board. Please note that the "Coin Marketplace" forum is for offers to buy or sell coins in accordance with the guidelines posted at the top of the forum. Questions like yours are best posted on the "Newbie Coin Collecting Questions" forum. We have two old but still pertinent sayings that are applicable to your situation. One is "There is no Santa Claus in numismatics". The other is "Buy the book before the coin", which today includes checking reputable online resources. When they have been sold at auction, genuine 2000-P dollar/quarter "mules" have sold for between $102,000 and $192,000, and the genuine pieces do not resemble the item you purchased. See https://www.pcgs.com/coinfacts/coin/2000-p-sac-1-mule-w-state-25c-obverse/508061. They have also been certified and encapsulated by major third-party grading services before being sold and aren't "loose" like this one. Having some knowledge about these pieces before purchasing a purported but obviously bogus example for what I assume was a small fraction of the market value of the genuine article would have saved you wasted time, even if not money. Perhaps it is just as well that this piece isn't an actual rare coin, as such a piece should never be held in one's bare hands, except by its edges if necessary.

Welcome to the NGC chat board. No. Unfortunately, the coin has been scratched by a roll wrapping machine.

This would likely be a better topic for the NGC Registry forum, which is monitored by the Registry's Administrator. What you describe sounds like a mistake.

What you have is a 1982 small date cent in the brass (95% copper, 5% zinc) alloy with an official weight of 3.11 grams that was discontinued in the latter part of that year and replaced with the current copper-plated zinc (official weight 2.5 grams) composition. It is relatively common and has no collector value when circulated like yours but is worth keeping if you find it interesting. All 1982 and 1982-D cents, whether of the large or small date varieties or composed of brass or copper-plated zinc are common, except for the 1982-D small date struck in brass, which was discovered a few years ago and of which only two are presently known to exist. One would likely have better chances winning the "Mega Millions" lottery than finding another. If you want to learn about U.S. coins and how to collect them, you should obtain basic books about them, at a bare minimum a current (2025) or recent edition of A Guide Book of United States Coins, commonly known as the "Red Book" and available from its publisher at whitman.com. Additional print and online resources are described on the following forum topics:

Welcome to the NGC chat board. Your coin is a 1990-P Jefferson nickel with damage affecting the date numerals. It has no collector value. The earliest Jefferson nickels were struck in and are dated 1938. A nickel dated 1900 would be of the Liberty head type dated 1883-1912 and would look like this 1897:

1937-S Lincoln cent, PCGS graded MS 66RD: