Sandon

Please post photos of coins about which you have questions here and not through a link to a personal folder! I am concerned about clicking such links due to the risk of viruses and malware. "Rare and [significant] error coins" are very rarely (almost never) found in circulation or among groups of common coins. If you are watching random videos on YouTube and the like, your confusion has likely been created by the disinformation disseminated by many (though not all) of those videos, which are posted by ignorant or dishonest people. Mint errors are usually collected by advanced collectors who have mastered the basics of coin identification and grading and are familiar with the minting process. If you insist on looking for them as a "newbie", refer to reliable sources such as the following: Learn Grading: What Is a Mint Error? — Part 1 | NGC (ngccoin.com) Learn Grading: What Is a Mint Error? — Part 2 | NGC (ngccoin.com) Learn Grading: What Is a Mint Error? — Part 3 | NGC (ngccoin.com) Learn Grading: What Is a Mint Error? — Part 4 | NGC (ngccoin.com) Variety vs. Mint Error | NGC (ngccoin.com) error-ref.com For basic and reliable print and online resources to learn about U.S. coins, see the following:

To answer your question, you can obtain 50 2.5 inch flips from NGC's parent company for $9, which is today a favorable price. NGC Double Pocket Coin Flips – CCG Store (collectiblesgroup.com). You can also try Whitman (whitman.com), Amos Publishing (amosadvantage.com) and as others have mentioned, Wizard Coin Supply. Shipping supplies may be obtainable from the shipper (for example, USPS or FedEx) or office supply stores. However, as you have "just started collecting" and presumably do not have significant knowledge and experience in grading and otherwise evaluating coins, you should not be considering submitting your coins to third-party grading services yourself! You may well end up spending more in grading fees and associated costs than the coins are worth. At a minimum, you should have an experienced dealer or collector evaluate your coins and advise you in this matter. See Jeff Garrett: The Art of Rare Coin Submissions | NGC (ngccoin.com). You can find dealers in your area, including those who submit coins to NGC, at Find Coin Shops & Dealers | Coin Dealer Locator | NGC (ngccoin.com). We can also give you some idea of the grade and value of your coins if you post clear, cropped photos of each side of each coin as separate topics on this forum. A new collector's time and money are best spent studying basic resources about coins, such as those described in the following forum topics: You would also benefit from attending such events as coin shows and coin club meetings, where you can examine a variety of coins and learn from knowledgeable dealers and collectors.

You are confusing grading coins with submitting coins to third-party grading services! Any coin that you want to collect should be graded--BY YOU, once you have learned the necessary skills. In addition to learning how to grade coins, you must also learn how to identify and otherwise evaluate them. Respectfully, this includes elementary knowledge, such as how to distinguish a "D" from a "P" mintmark. Without these skills, which will take you some time to acquire, you should not even consider submitting coins to grading services. The vast majority of collector coins are of insufficient value to warrant the cost and other complications of third-party grading. They can be enjoyed and protected in coin albums and other appropriate holders. (Coin collecting goes back for thousands of years, while third-party grading and encapsulation of coins only started in 1986 with PCGS, fifteen years after I started collecting.) The 1979-D Anthony dollar you posted is lightly circulated or at best low-end uncirculated and at best not worth much over its $1 face value. If you enjoy having it, that is what is important after all. Please refer to the following forum topics to find the print and online resources that you will need to enjoy and become successful as a collector: You should also attend such events as coin shows and coin club meetings, where you can examine a variety of coins and learn from experienced dealers and collectors.

Apart from the photos being too small to see any detail in the coins, we really can't help you unless you ask what you want to know about them. I blew the photos up to maximum size and can't see any detail. They appear to be lightly circulated, extremely common 1957-D Lincoln cents with a mintage of over one billion pieces, with retail values of 5 to 10 cents each. Dealers buy common date "wheat cents" like this in bulk (hundreds or thousands of pieces at a time) for 3 cents or so apiece. Please refer to the following topic about posting on this forum: Try to post photos that look something like this:

These obviously fake "mules" (Trade dollar obverse, Seated dollar reverse and, as I recall, vice versa) have shown up on this forum before, usually where the poster thinks that they are real coins. Here an obverse dated 1877 has been paired with a "no motto" Seated dollar reverse design not used since 1866. The style of engraving and the shapes of the numerals on the obverse are ludicrous and completely unlike those on a genuine 1877 Trade dollar. The Seated dollar reverse is more realistic, but the style of the reeding and the color and texture of the surfaces also identify this as an obvious fake, no scale or other tests needed. This piece would only be deceptive to novices who have no idea what genuine pieces look like.

1868 proof Shield nickel, PCGS graded PR 64. CAC awarded a green sticker despite the coin having several small green corrosion spots! PCGS photos

Welcome to the NGC chat board. Based on your current photos, your coins appear to be common date circulation issue (copper-nickel clad) Eisenhower dollars and probably are worth only their face value of $1 each. The only coins that should be "certified" by third-party grading services are those that you have determined based on adequate knowledge are worth at least several hundred dollars each to justify the considerable cost. When you post photos of coins about which you have a question on this forum, please post separate photos of each side of each coin, with each photo cropped to show to the greatest extent possible the coin and not the surface on which it sits. Anyone can post videos on "YouTube", and many of these videos about coins are posted by ignorant or dishonest people who spread disinformation about coins. There are some legitimate videos, such as those from the American Numismatic Association (the "A.N.A.", money.org), PCGS, the United States Mint, and major coin dealers or auctioneers such as Heritage Auctions (ha.com) or Stacks Bowers (stacksbowers.com). If you are interested in legitimate information about coins, please refer to the print and online resources mentioned in the following forum topics:

There is no clear answer to this question for varieties like this that are not listed in major coin price guides and publicly trade between knowledgeable buyers and sellers infrequently. The best you can do is check for records of public sales, such as at Heritage (ha.com), Great Collections (greatcollections.com), and Stacks Bowers (stacksbowers.com). I don't recommend eBay and the like considering the amount of ignorance and dishonesty that appear to pervade many (though not all) of the sellers on those sites.

Welcome to the NGC chat board. First of all--and I am troubled that no one has mentioned this previously--your coin is a 1917-D Buffalo nickel, not a 1917, as indicated by the small "D" beneath "FIVE CENTS". The mintmark on a coin is just as important as its date and type in identifying and valuing the coin. A 1917-D (Denver mint issue) has a higher list value at all grade levels than a 1917 (Philadelphia mint issue). Based on the photos, your coin grades Extremely Fine (40) or better in details but has an odd whiteness that suggests that it has been "cleaned", meaning that the original surface has been stripped or disturbed by chemicals or abrasives, an impairment that would reduce is value and salability. This cannot be determined conclusively through photos, though shots from different lighting angles would help. Assuming that the coin is unimpaired, an Extremely Fine 1917-D Buffalo nickel lists $195 in the NGC Price Guide, $150 in the current monthly issue of Coin World, and $169 in this quarter's CPG Coin & Currency Market Review. These are retail (dealer selling, not buying) prices. "Cleaning" could reduce the value by a third or half, perhaps more. It is essential that a collector learn how to grade and otherwise evaluate coins. Do you have a print grading guide or at least refer to PCGS Photograde Online, https://www.pcgs.com/photograde? Additionally, do you have a current (2024) or recent issue of A Guide Book of United States Coins, commonly known as the "Redbook"?

The topic of "cleaning" is difficult for new collectors to understand for several reasons. The term is itself a misnomer because a process that solely removes surface dirt from a coin without affecting the surface of the coin--literal cleaning, such as by using a solvent such as acetone--is not included in this term. Instead, "cleaning" in its negative numismatic context means a variety of chemical and abrasive processes that chemically or physically alter the surface of the coin itself, resulting in an unnatural or unattractive appearance. This includes a number of different appearances, such as the following: 1. Heavy hairlining from abrasive processes such as by scrubbing the coin even with a cloth or rubbing it with a pencil eraser or the like. To the naked eye, this includes an unnatural "whiteness" that appears at different angles as the coin is rotated in the light and an unnatural, unattractive grey color in the abraded areas that is unlike the natural, darker or brownish greys of unimpaired circulated or toned coins. 2. Blotchiness or unnatural brightness, shininess, or dullness from various types of chemical treatments or polishes. To compound the ambiguity, grading services do not treat silver coins that have been carefully "dipped" in anti-tarnish solutions as "cleaned", although such "dipping" may reduce the numerical grade they award the coin. However, coins that have a "washed out" appearance due to being dipped too many times or for too long will likely be deemed to have been "cleaned". (Dipping is unacceptable for copper and apparently copper-nickel coins and will almost certainly result in a "details" grade as "cleaned" or "recolored".) "Cleaned" coins vary in appearance from hideous to fairly attractive depending on the nature and severity of the "cleaning". In my opinion the more attractive ones are collectible at an appropriate discount. Additionally, even experienced collectors and dealers may disagree over whether a particular coin should be described as "cleaned" and, if so, the severity of the "cleaning". I have a "Custom Set" on the NGC Registry that includes only coins that NGC or PCGS "details" graded as "cleaned" and a few that were numerically graded but that I regard as "cleaned". Characteristics of "Cleaned" Coins - Custom Set (collectors-society.com) Hopefully, the photos and descriptions in this set will provide you with some guidance. However, you will need to examine a number of original and "cleaned" coins in person to really understand the differences.

1818 Capped Bust quarter, PCGS graded XF 40, an example of the larger diameter "open collar strike" subtype (1815-28), the preceding Capped Bust quarters having been of the smaller diameter "close collar strike" subtype (1831-38). (Coins with different designs are generally referred to as types, not, as a certain new member claims, "die series".)

One can never know just what the future holds, but for reasons previously mentioned, I doubt that cash will completely cease to be used in our lifetimes. It will more likely continue in use alongside more modern methods of payment. In 1880, the only way you could see actors or musicians perform was to attend a live performance. Movies and recordings didn't completely replace live performances, nor did radio and television broadcasts, nor has the internet. There are simply more choices.

1831 quarter dollar, "Small Letters" variety, NGC graded XF 45, though lightly "cleaned" in my opinion: Photos courtesy of Stacks Bowers Galleries.

Welcome to the NGC chat board. Contrary to an increasing but incorrect usage, to "grade" a coin is not synonymous with sending it to a third-party grading service! From my standpoint as a collector for over fifty years, to grade a coin means to examine the coin carefully and form my own opinion of its grade based upon my own knowledge of grading. Without such knowledge, one cannot form a reasonable opinion as to whether a coin is worth the substantial cost of third-party grading. If you don't have this knowledge, you have no business submitting the coin to a grading service yourself and should not attempt to do so without advice from an experienced dealer or collector. See Jeff Garrett: The Art of Rare Coin Submissions | NGC (ngccoin.com). You can check for dealers in your area at Find Coin Shops & Dealers | Coin Dealer Locator | NGC (ngccoin.com) or attend a local coin show. If you can provide us with clear, cropped photos of each side of your 1884-S Morgan dollar, forum members can attempt an estimate of its grade. You can also look at PCGS Photograde for photographic images of examples at each circulated and uncirculated grade. https://www.pcgs.com/photograde. However, a proper evaluation of the coin would require in-person examination. The 1884-S Morgan dollar is scarce as an uncirculated coin, and there are numerous pieces--probably more than genuine uncirculated examples--that are lightly worn and have been "cleaned" or polished to make them look uncirculated to those without the necessary knowledge.

Welcome to the NGC chat board. These semicircular scratches often appear on coins that were placed at the ends of machine wrapped rolls. Unfortunately, they substantially devalue the coins from a collector's standpoint. Even without the wrapping machine damage, your 1964 Washington quarter wouldn't be considered to be "in great condition", as it has light wear (About Uncirculated or so in details), has a number of nicks, and appears to have been "cleaned". Here are photos of a 1937-S Washington quarter that PCGS graded MS 64. Note the full details, frosty luster, and relatively mark-free surfaces. Before you even start to think about submitting coins to third-party grading services, which is costly, you need to learn a great deal about how to grade and otherwise evaluate coins yourself, both by studying print and online resources and by attending venues such as coin shows and coin club meetings where you can examine a variety of coins and speak with knowledgeable collectors and dealers. Here are some forum topics that will identify some helpful print and online resources:

@dprince1138--You are referring to a device punch, not a "hub", which I recall wasn't used to make half dollar dies prior to the 1836 reeded edge type and would have included all elements of the reverse die, including the letters and numbers. (The coin whose reverse you posted is clearly of the 1807-36 lettered edge type; the reference to "O-108" is meaningless without identifying the year of the coin, as the Overton reference starts over at O-101 for each year.) The correct term for any doubling that would result from movement of the device punch between blows, I recall, would be repunching, not a doubled die! Can you refer me to any numismatic reference that supports your terminology? To the OP--Although some (generally less significant) doubled dies do not show doubling on all letters or elements, what @dprince1138 has written is irrelevant to your coin, which was, in fact struck from "hubbed" dies. The extremely magnified photos you provided do not appear to show die doubling, which would be crisper and at or near the same level as the primary image. (Have you compared it to any listings of less well-known doubled dies for 1910 Lincoln cents on doubleddie.com and varietyvista.com?) Even if it were a doubled die, it would be so minor as not to warrant much collector interest or premium. (You are welcome, of course, to collect any coin you find interesting, and it is at least a nice AU or brown uncirculated 1910 Lincoln cent.) Take note that "[w]ith few exceptions, NGC will not attribute die varieties [such as doubled dies] that require greater than 5x magnification to be clearly recognizable." What is a Variety? | NGC (ngccoin.com). Similarly, the recently published Volume 2, Sixth Edition of the Cherrypickers Guide to Rare Die Varieties states as a "helpful hint" at p. 27, "If you can't discern a variety with a 7x loupe, it probably isn't significant enough to earn the attention of other collectors."

The problem appears to have been corrected, at least with regard to the sets in which I participate, with PF 65 coins now allotted 1,284 points. Thank you for your assistance.

I purchased this 1857-O Liberty Seated half dime that PCGS graded MS 66 (and to which CAC awarded a green sticker) at a local coin show last month. The dealer gave me a substantial discount from most list prices, but it was still, for me, a sizeable purchase. My own photos of it didn't do it justice, and I finally figured out how to resize the PCGS image so that I could post it here.

Although the strike makes this one a bit confusing, the steps appear to be lightly engraved and wavy, meaning that this is a Reverse of 1938 (Variety 1). (According to the NGC Coin Explorer, nearly two-thirds of 1939-S nickels have the Reverse of '38, while most of the 1939 and 1939-D issues have the Reverse of '40.) 1939 S REV OF 38 5C MS | Coin Explorer | NGC (ngccoin.com). What does the NGC holder that contains the coin say its variety is?

@LoganLBL--To create a custom set, go to NGC Registry | Custom Sets (collectors-society.com) while logged in, press the "Create a Set" button and follow the steps that follow.

I know that and thought I quoted it out of his post. The computer sometimes does strange things.

Then you would waste time and money, as grading services don't attribute varieties that are "too small to verify". "With few exceptions, NGC will not attribute die varieties that require greater than 5x magnification to be clearly recognizable." What is a Variety? | NGC (ngccoin.com).

The "Redbook" (2023 standard edition, p. 440) states that "[e]arly in 2002 the mint changed their [sic] production methods to a new system designed to eliminate deformed planchets, off-center strikes, and similar errors. . .. Under the new system, coins are packaged in large quantities and go directly to automated counters that filter out deformed coins. The result is that very few error coins have entered the market since late 2002, and almost none after that date."

No. The "Accented Hair" variety is only known to exist on proofs of 1964. See photos and diagnostics at Kennedy Half Dollars (1964-Date) | VarietyPlus® | NGC (ngccoin.com) (press "PF" button).

You should enjoy this typical 1968 proof set, of which over three million were issued (retail value of $7-$9) in its original packaging. Based on your photos, there does not appear to be any coin that exhibits a mint error or would achieve a sufficiently high grade (PF 69 or preferably 70; the cent and half dollar appear to have cameo obverses but not reverses and would not qualify for a "cameo" designation) to justify the cost of submission to a third-party grading service. The quarter is simply lightly toned, and none of the coins appears to be an off-center strike, which would show a substantial area of blank planchet on both sides. (See NGC photos below.) As you note, the half dollar is stained, which would likely reduce its grade, as would "cleaning" or dipping it. It would cost you $133 plus your own shipping cost to submit these five coins to NGC just for grading ($19 per coin Modern tier grading fee, $10 processing fee, and $28 return shipping fee). Error attribution would cost an additional $18 per coin, which NGC would retain if, as it appears, none of the coins qualifies as a mint error. As you know from the previous topic you posted, this money is largely wasted and cannot be recovered if you do not have sufficient grading and attribution skills to accurately predict the likely results of your submission. This is what a significant off-center strike looks like.