Lisae228

9 hours ago, Greenstang said:

Never heard of copper "fading" away. If that is the true colour, then that is not zinc. Also the coin would weigh a bit less, not more.

I'm new at all this.. The Man at the coin shop was busy n briefly looked at it..let me take a pic in the light.. maybe that will help u tell me

11 hours ago, kbbpll said:

Not sure what you mean but large numbers of the 1943 steel cents were replated for the collector market.

Underneath the 1 on the 1943 d... The line under is raised.  You can't tell by picture...but it's not alot...thank y'all again for input

13 hours ago, Greenstang said:

The 1943 cents are all within spec weight wise. The 1991 has more than likely been aftermarket plated which is not uncommon

I took it to a coin shop today.  They told me that it was zinc and the copper has faded away...sooo...

Can anyone tell my what this penny is all about...1943 d penny underneath the one looks like a little extra metal..but I'm not sure. 1991 u can see looks different like steel but it does not stick to a magnet like my others do...n the 3 Steel pennies all weigh 2.79.  And the 1991 weighs 2.77...

Thank u I had a 1946 nickel my grandpa had packaged up...n it doesn't have a mint mark..and I was just curious as to why he originally kept it besides the date...

Is this an error strike?

How can u tell a coin is made of silver? Are there any home techniques that can determine this?

16 hours ago, Lancek said:

Nothing in there that would get me too excited.  All nice coins, but common dates from the latter part of the series. Did you look at the tools I had linked in one of my other posts?  The sample grading and the price guide?  This might be a good time for you to get a little practice on those.  I'm not a Franklin expert, but the thing to look for is "full bell lines" or FBL.  Which has to do with the thin lines that run across the bottom of the bell.  If they are "full", meaning they go all the way across the bell with out any break, the coin might be worth a little more.  NGC's price guide list prices for MS and MSFBL separately.

The top right of NGC's price guide has a kind of toggle switch.  Where you can go back and forth from MS or PF for proof issue coins.  It looks like the '63 might be a proof.  Just remember that whatever setting you leave the NGC site on, that's what it will come back to.  Even if you are looking up an entirely different coin.  Learned that one the hard way.  Had been pricing a modern commemorative proof.  Came back a few days latter to price a Morgan without realizing it was still set to proof.

Even a Franklin straight from the mint might not have been FBL.  Due to a worn die, or a weak strike.  And if circulated, that is the first place it will show wear.  It's very hard to tell FBLs from pics, as the lines are so fine.  But you might have a few in there.

High grade Franklins in these years are pretty common.  So the rise in value between a 58 and a 63 is minimal.  And it's unlikely any of those grade above that.  I would offer him 80% of what you think they are worth retail.  Remember that anywhere else he tries to sell them is going to take a cut.  Ebay takes 10% and he's only likely to sell them for retail there if he has a solid sales track record on coins.  Since these aren't graded.  An auction house will take 10-20%, sometimes 25%. And most auction buyers are looking to pay less than retail.  A coin dealer is likely to pay 50-60% of retail.  

And maybe take 10% off of NGC's guide before you apply your 80%.  Their prices seem to be a little inflated.

After working with those tools let me know what kind of numbers you come up with and I'll let you know if you are way off.

I haven't quite looked at the link...but will when Xmas time is over ..lol. Trying to understand all..but I'm starting to learn a little more everyday..thanks to everones help..so much appreciated

Thank y'all so much.  I think it's the picture on 63...all of them are really shiny except the 59..n thanks yall

The 59 doesn't have the shiny luster like the others! It's almost a slight blue tint

My friend is letting these go. I don't want to pay to much but I also don't want to rip him off either. What do y'all think... Thanks again for input.. Everyone here seems to have solid info...

I really appreciate yalls insight n advice... you see better details then I do...but I'm slowly learning..it's hard to get accurate info online..so thank u for taking time out to reply to what may seem to be a dumb question sometimes..lol..

7 hours ago, Greenstang said:

We could probably give a better opinion if we saw the Obverse as well as the Reverse.

That reverse of the half dollar is rather confusing as to it's significance to the 41 dime.

Um the obverse side is the primary side of the coin( front) correct? I'm feeling very dumb at the moment..I posted both sides I thought...idk. My phone may have messed up..

If y'all were going to buy this coin.. What would you give? What's it worth in your opinion... Thanks ahead of time for input...

16 hours ago, Coinbuf said:

Excellent article that @Revenant posted will explain the process very well.  As to your two dimes they look perfectly fine just have some tarnish on them which may have been the result of long term storage in an album.  They are very common dates and not very likely to be fakes, wouldn't be worth the time for a counterfeiter to try and fake these.

Thanks y'all

4 hours ago, kbbpll said:

I could be wrong but I've heard that sometimes people buy the set but are only interested in one of the denominations, or the one that might get PR66 or whatever, so the cent or nickel ends up dumped into circulation. So don't feel bad about finding it.

I don't ....it passed.  Lol...ty

20 minutes ago, Lisae228 said:

What makes a coin get a blue tint? I got 2  Mercury dimes that have a blue tint.. They look fake...I hope they are not.. not sure how to tell I'll post a picture of them. 

2 minutes ago, Lisae228 said:

Thank you so very much for your answer..I appreciate your knowledge as I'm just learning...

What makes a coin get a blue tint? I got 2  Mercury dimes that have a blue tint.. They look fake...I hope they are not.. not sure how to tell I'll post a picture of them. 

1 hour ago, Coinbuf said:

From the close up of the mintmark I do not see a D/D so just a really nice condition nickel, there for sure is someone out there that would love to have this for an album.  A goldish hue is not all that uncommon on coins, over time metal reacts with its surroundings and changes color depending on what it has been in contact with.  I have several Jefferson nickels that also have a golden tone to them, coins that have developed some color can be very pleasing to view or in some cases not very attractive; yours is very attractive so enjoy.

Thank you so very much for your answer..I appreciate your knowledge as I'm just learning...

Awe that makes me feel bad for finding it.....well I'll take care of it..lol. Thank y'all

Not sure if you can tell but it has more of a gold tint then silver... What causes the color change? And thank you for your advice, opinion, and info..

Just curious to what others say?  Is it worth grading. Or is it worth anything really?

Sorry phone is being hard headed..y'all have got some crazy eyes.....it's not a rectangle I don't think...but the steps seem to be flattened , some what slanted...I love the knowledge from this site...so much better then reading some things on google/utube...thanks again...