Numisdoclaw

Sandon is right. There is also no rule on how scratches form and travel.

There are more than several ways to go about it. Usually the rule is, lower purity has less premium, if any at all. Also the higher the weight of a piece can lower premiums or completely remove them. I have bought kilo bars several times that were for spot or less, due to their size. Big silver doesn't move well. You could do a few ounces a week, 10 ounces a month, maybe a kilo every 2 months. Gotta figure out what is best for you based on your finances.

Definitely appears it took a heavy blow, and the weight of it remained as it exited rolling metal as it left.

You'll spend more on getting the grade, paying for shipping, and paying to have the attribute done than you will ever be able to recover and profit. Best bet is to assess and assign a value to it yourself, and either keep it, or list it raw with those mentioned. Might sit for a awhile, but there is someone out there for it that would eventually buy it. This is my opinion. I have had coins graded myself that are at a loss, but they are for me, and not for reselling. At the end of the day, it is your preference.

A great circulated example 1837 capped bust 50 cents. Honest wear and no cleaning. The photos are with very direct light, it is much darker and evenly at that.

A lovely graded XF45 Trime I picked up because of the wonderful toning.

I don't think anyone is being disrespectful. Don't know how that was gathered from my message. I am trying to convey as best as possible it isn't glue. My photos are not good enough to properly display what I'm seeing. My apologies. Over the past few days, I have discovered that what we are seeing is gold plating. The coin was gold plated at some point, and then cleaned. The gold didn't get cleaned away that was in the deeper scratches. So thank you all that responded.

Ok. First thing, I did not say it was encapsulated by any grading service. That is a slab of my own. The "tape" you see is not. That is physical difference in the metal of the planchet. The gold color resides in what appears to be scratches.

This SLQ clearly has a lamination issue, but what I cannot figure out is the almost 14k gold looking parts on the reverse of it in various places. Has anyone seen this before or have seen toning this vibrant gold? The gold color is in various spots of dings and scratches.

Severe environmental damage or intentional by man.

I do know that diagnostics are a tool to be used in the process of authentication. Early US type coins are indeed exceedingly more difficult when it comes to this, as quality control wasn't nearly as much as it today, as well as resource being more limited. Dies used past their life, etc. I am absorbing any knowledge like a sponge you all will allow me to. Keep it coming. I appreciate you.

I am learning more and more everyday by reading and taking into regard what has been said here to me as I go. I like this half dime, and it has very good details. Is the blobbing of metal in the curl of the S a indicator mark from a die, aiding in the identification of it being authentic? The coin looks a bit cartoonish to me. Your thoughts and comments are greatly appreciated. I am considering purchasing. Thank you. [Yes I know it's been cleaned. I can tell by the darkness around the details]

Ok. I'll leave it alone.

It being a W makes it worth a little something

If it is infact genuine, and you get it graded and it comes back AU55 or above, you are talking $15,000-$20,000. See recent auctions. This link shows both NGC and PCGS realized auction prices. https://www.pcgs.com/coinfacts/coin/1853-o-20/8910 Just remember, that would be a finished product, and as of now, all you have is a raw, uncertified, and unverified coin. Go find a authorized dealer in your area when you get the chance. Make sure it's a trusted one too. Congratulations on such a wonderful gift, and my condolences about your father.