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pigeonman333rd

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Posts posted by pigeonman333rd

  1. On 12/10/2022 at 11:26 AM, EagleRJO said:

    For that kind of money I wouldn't bid on anything that wasn't already slabbed by a TPG.

    And that is coming from someone who's hands-down preference is raw coins.

    So true however it went for $9500 to some Lucky seller! I would estimate the value if it is genuine however I believe it was a pcgs coin to be around $5,000 advertised as an AU55 but reasonably more like a VF20.

  2. So the only thing I got to report is that I found two rolls to buy both not rare but I need them to go with all the fakes so I have some genuine examples rather then just a book of unc detail fakes of the same year's 1942-D and 1944-D unc rolls more then likely au 55 coins but I will find out soon enough I will be starting the red book here shortly as I can't seem to find the program I was looking for on ana.

  3. On 12/9/2022 at 9:19 PM, pigeonman333rd said:

    Did they mint a 1932-s I cant find it in the red book. I have found 1 1932 p in change I don't have the 1932-D though. I would check with the Penny lady on her website to find any of those coins slabbed. I wish I would have gone two her before I bought my 1857 ms63. The coin is not eye clean at first site looks way better in light of camera and under the loop looks marvelous but at first glance looks like it has stains on it that disappear under the loop and in pictures. If you got the money a 1877 proof is worth more I think then a 1909 S vdb and cost about the same as a high ms grade 1909-s VDB like say ms66. Did you ever think about collecting the 1930's-1950's proofs instead they are more rare more affordable and a set consists of straight no mint mark.  

    I would say try this when buying coins because this is what I do never bid on a coin right away but put it on you watch list know the date and time the auction ends and at the last 15 seconds max bid half the average buying price for the grade in the red book but know if it's corroded know if it has been cleaned and never bid on auctions that use a depiction coin different then the actual coin you will receive and never bid if pictures are bad. A while back I used this method on a very fine corrosion detail 1857 flying eagle certified by pcgs. It red book values at $65 minus the corrosion so I maxed bid $20 and got it for $10 free shipping. I just wanted it to add something to my registry that was cheap it's one thing if you have a few coins in your registry that you paid alot for it's another to have examples that cost you alot less and you didn't have to certify them yourself. 

  4. On 12/9/2022 at 9:19 PM, pigeonman333rd said:

    Did they mint a 1932-s I cant find it in the red book. I have found 1 1932 p in change I don't have the 1932-D though. I would check with the Penny lady on her website to find any of those coins slabbed. I wish I would have gone two her before I bought my 1857 ms63. The coin is not eye clean at first site looks way better in light of camera and under the loop looks marvelous but at first glance looks like it has stains on it that disappear under the loop and in pictures. If you got the money a 1877 proof is worth more I think then a 1909 S vdb and cost about the same as a high ms grade 1909-s VDB like say ms66. Did you ever think about collecting the 1930's-1950's proofs instead they are more rare more affordable and a set consists of straight no mint mark.  

    I shouldn't say more rare that's not true because survival rate of proof coins could be high by the way have you bought a 2009 p/d/s copper satin proof set yet they are going up in price faster in less time then older proof setts due to 784,600 minted and many sets have been cut for individual coin value.

  5. On 12/9/2022 at 11:55 AM, NewGuy1 said:

    Thanx ldhair even that little bit of info was interesting  I have overpriced Littleton stuff from the 90s but it was interesting to see that the owner likes stuff like this.  Im still working on adding to and upgrading my jeffs, lincolns, roos dimes and quaters that I started years ago. Going for ef -au with no problem coins and trying for a matched looking sets. Slabbed stuff is expensive so I'm trying to goWith  raw but finding non damaged and cleaned raw is tough but I'm learning how to spot them from you guys.  The early denver and sanfran lincolns cost a bundle and I'm going to save for slabbed vdbS 14D and 32DS because I don't want to buy fake chinese .  Then I really want to do indians  thanks @pigeonman333rd for getting me back.interested in them.  

    Ooops, sorry for my ranbling off  topic.   @ldhairs stuff is cool and it would be something I would l II e to collect when I win the powerball.  Thanks guys NG1

     

    Did they mint a 1932-s I cant find it in the red book. I have found 1 1932 p in change I don't have the 1932-D though. I would check with the Penny lady on her website to find any of those coins slabbed. I wish I would have gone two her before I bought my 1857 ms63. The coin is not eye clean at first site looks way better in light of camera and under the loop looks marvelous but at first glance looks like it has stains on it that disappear under the loop and in pictures. If you got the money a 1877 proof is worth more I think then a 1909 S vdb and cost about the same as a high ms grade 1909-s VDB like say ms66. Did you ever think about collecting the 1930's-1950's proofs instead they are more rare more affordable and a set consists of straight no mint mark.  

  6. On 12/8/2022 at 8:08 AM, NewGuy1 said:

    in your post.- Newguy1 seems to know alot more about coins then I do! I have learned alot following his website posts.T

    hank u very much. ill try not to get a big head :banana::acclaim:That made my day. For real tho, I'm still learning a lot from guys like sandon, jkk, ldhair rwb curt and quintis A's chicken :roflmao: and others Im forgetting to call out.  Listen to them..  But its always fun to be able to get the right answer and help someone like those guys do. I have Been collecting for over 25 years but am starting to learn that I was doing alot of hoarding and only a little bit of learning

    Im praying for your surgery to go good.  NG1

    Thanks I appreciate that so much for the prayers

  7. On 12/7/2022 at 10:24 AM, VKurtB said:

    The main thing you obviously need is more experience - enough to know what any particular coin SHOULD look like. It can’t be done online and it’s even hard to do with books. You have to hunt ducks (coins) where the ducks (coins) are. You need to get to coin shows. Or maybe duck shows. 

    I attend the National Pigeon Association shows but I haven't been since a really good Pigeon man Friend of mine died! 2015 Rest in Peace Brother. There were coin dealers at shows in the 1990's mostly commemoratives and foreign currency they were from Hungry. I will get my books from ANA course! I bought the Red book Deluxe but not the Encyclopedia of coins yet. I need to spend money because the credit union said if I go another year without spending they could suspend my cards. I was on a saving spree but I can't continue on that way the credit union said that effects my credit score. The last coin show I found I just missed it was on the 3rd of this month about a hundred miles from here darn I really would have enjoyed that.

  8. On 12/7/2022 at 8:39 AM, EagleRJO said:

    You should be learning how to assess the condition, authenticity, grade and value yourself before you buy any coins.

    True. I checked on what a real copper 1982 small date is and out of most of the rolls I received came many large date zinc cents not what I paid for. I have been studying what a genuine flying eagle looks like cooper nickel and the shape of the numbers being not sloppy. No flying eagles are made of copper or brass. I have learned most rare wheat cents have been counterfeited and rarely come red in color except in certified state. I have been reading descriptions more carefully using Lincoln cent source and pcgs coin facts to find alot of coins advertised are fakes. I even spotted a fake 1857 on ebay of which I informed the seller and he thanked me and one at a pawn shop which the one at the pawn shop made no sense it was in pcgs case both were copper and the dates were rounded and oddly shaped and the one in the pawn shop had a differn't eagle design all together. I have stopped buying I have enough purchases on my credit card now to last some months. I need it because the credit union told me I need to use my card more. I purchased three genuine large cents and two genuine certified flying eagles.The only regretful deal was buying 1982 copper small dates they have a value of one cent. Not one uncirculated coin out of all of those rolls however their is a chance to make a grading book out of all of them because conditions vary from g4-AU55. I used the sheldon scale and the Red Book as reference while grading about 16 coins worth keeping between extra fine 40-AU55. The best thing is to stop buying and take the time to take the ANA course online to learn what is a numismatist. I can't really be a coin buyer tell I do that! Even pcgs coin facts tell very little about what variety a large cent is just that Newman varieties Exist. Newguy1 seems to know alot more about coins then I do! I have learned alot following his website posts.I have learned some from Sandon's posts as well. I seen one certified 1856 flying eagle that I highly doubt is cooper nickel and it has sold three times according to pcgs coin facts. Ive gotten better at spotting fakes but the 1955 double die cents scare me I don't think I will ever buy one raw because the difference of a fake and a real coin is very little difference in my opinion. A real education in coins has got to come from counterfeit detection course. I know nothing about buying gold except that an XRF test is required before any purchase but I have no idea how to read an XRF reader. I need that course and it's only $499 for two year course and the final exam can be taken at the local library I checked they proctor any exam they are authorized to proctor from GED tests to language and license examinations. I have about 8 month to take a two year course is their any mentors on this site that are ANA mentors that want to be my mentor? And does anyone believe I can pass a two year course in eight months? I Hope Your Operation went well. Nice clock by the way that was an Awesome gift.

  9. On 12/6/2022 at 5:43 PM, World Colonial said:

    "Store credit"?

    I've heard some dealers purportedly agree to buy back coins they sell at "strong" prices (higher than other dealers will pay) but never heard of "store credit". 

    That's the equivalent of expecting to "rent" a coin for free where you get to keep it for a time to admire it and then return it for a full refund. The dealer runs a business not a free perpetual approval service.

    Why would any seller of coins anywhere do that?

    I was asking to sell the coin to receive store credit instead of cash not lease a coin.

  10. On 12/6/2022 at 8:27 AM, EagleRJO said:

    I hope the operation goes well, and everything works out with good outcomes. Funny thing is I am posting this reply on my laptop from a hospital room bed waiting to go into surgery myself for some blocked circulation in my leg. ;)

    God Bless You My Friend In The Name Of The Father In The Name of The Son In the Name Of Jesus Christ Amen.

  11. So I won last nights Auction some bidder went one dollar bid crazy for the last15 seconds the bid was 83 dollars and ended up 134.00 I lucked out my max bid was 200 dollars. Its an 1852 large cent with a cud mark obverse so it's an imperfect coin but I love those stars and the reason I'm spending the bank said I needed to use my card I hadn't used in over a year I was mostly paying cash for everything. I need to spend for my credit to go up! Ain't she pretty? My guess is she's an extra fine to an AU50.

    1852attributed.JPG

    1852obv.JPG

    1852rev.JPG

  12. ebay is cheap but I'm learning from books now. That medal is on ebay where all coins are supposed to be genuine and if their not you get your money back unlike other sites. That's why I shop ebay and frequent coin shops to validate my buys they have ana certificates and can spot fakes but I hate when they try to buy coins you are just trying to show them to get their opinion and always for about $100 more then you paid for it it's insulting like you would hock your coins to make 100 bucks.They try to make deals like 100 dollars now on a coin you paid 75 dollars for and 75 when they sell it of course they would never pay you the 75 dollars they would just deny they ever bought the coin from you I know because I asked for 200 store credit and he said we don't do that. Such jive!