RWB

Many excuses for not handling coin authentication in a consistent and reasonable manner - but if that's what some want to do, fine. A threshold based on an authentication cost of 10% of FMV - which is the only external value marker one has - makes sense. It permits the inexperienced collector to put aside some of the emotional baggage that accompanies a shiny object, and look on a coin with a more real-world view. There might be specific coins and reasons why one wants to take a different approach, but long-term it is not a "policy" that benefits. (Dealers junk bins are filled with such slabbed shiny objects.) It's a matter of using reasonable self control to benefit application of hobby resources - i.e., getting the most from available funds and time. Hobby message boards are filled with inexperienced collectors champing at the bit to have their 1990 proof half dollar slabbed and graded. Few stop to think that the whole 1990 set can be bought for less than the expense of slabbing just one coin. As for the specific coin, it does not appear to be uncirculated, which therefor limits its retail value to about $240 or less. Slabbing it will not change the retail value upward - it is merely a sunk cost. For 1921 Peace dollars, certified authentication is presently of only limited utility. Any minimally competent coin dealer can identify a fake 1921; Peace dollar collectors are also reasonably competent at this for 1921s.

Lots of scrapes and marks visible. Marks above "1" and on throat; and on eagle's back, between "E" and eagle, at word "Peace" all point to a grade of Unc-63 or so. Don't see the detail on right wing you mention....might be the lighting, etc. Just an opinion: it is a pleasant coin, but a very long way from Unc-67.

How about posting a photo of the 1924 double eagle. There are several collectors of those here and they might enjoy seeing a MS-67 example.

Is the fair market value of the coin $250 or greater? If yes, it might be a "grading' candidate. Based on the photo, the 1921 is not uncirculated and has average detail. Retail value estimates (PCGS Price Guide) for an AU coin are about $215-240 which seems to be the high-end grade for the OPs coin. One might expect 80% of retail if selling. This suggests "grading" will be of marginal dollar value, although it might make it easier to sell or trade the coin in the future. Apologies to 'zadok' for being so "uninformed."

Your 1893 dollar looks cleaned. The 1921 Peace dollar is circulated and not worth the grading cost (it is nowhere close to "Gem"). Not sure the 1879-CC is authentic. Others far too blurry to tell anything.

Akkkkk....Nooooo...You've discovered the great secret.... Gene Roddenberry and Marc Okrand traveled back in time and replaced Saint-Gaudens' Liberty (or Victory) figure with the Klingon Goddess of Annihilation (pronounced "hel-oh keti.") That's why the figure is so robust with a squished face and flat feet.

Communication between humans is difficult even when it is face to face. But texts and many a few photos, are limiting and make it much more difficult to convey a message accurately. We all tend to assume certain things from previous interactions, and those assumptions just make things more difficult. We are all irascible at times.

The member you were replying to has put you on "Ignore." You can still reply to other posts. You can also copy the member's text, paste it into a new post and go from there.

Welcome. I really don't collect coins --- I concentrate on research and writing about American coins, minting, technology and operations. Former CCAC member, etc., etc. Members here will be glad to exchange information, photos, snide remarks, bad puns and assorted numismatic ephemera. Feel free to ask any questions - even the most seemingly commonplace.

Disturbed obverse luster (field) and wear at highest point of eagle indicates the coin is Extremely Fine (EF) to About Uncirculated (AU). It is not uncirculated (or "Mint State" or any other state.)

Struck through a sperm cell.....

No. Worth about melt value -- less than $20.

Can you post a sharp, full coin image of obverse and reverse? Here is a short article that might help you. https://coinweek.com/counterfeits/counterfeit-coin-detection-194241-mercury-dime-overdate/ After members see the full coin photos, they can probably give you a reasonable idea of insurance value. Use this when sending the coin to NGC for authentication and grading. BUT - Chinese and at least one domestic counterfeiter are producing highly deceptive fakes, so collect opinions before sending it off.

Fresh food was a logistical problem into the early 20th century. Game meat would certainly have been appreciated by soldiers.

Do you mean something like: "NRA Sponsors Feral Cat Hunt --- Bring your AK-47 and do something useful with it !"

This is something that most coin book authors would like to have with readers - meaningful dialog. Everyone benefits from the back-and-forth discussion, clarification and focus, plus on a message board it is in a fairly compact and accessible format. Frankly, I've learned a lot about the book and had to re-examine content and language in response to questions and observations. It is an author's luxury to have readers such as GoldFinger69, take the time and interest to dig into any coin book - and especially rare for a book as numismatically new and complex as this one. I must also give a lot of credit to Heritage leadership in trusting my approach. I know it was a little overwhelming and not something they initially expected.

General Order 53 referred to specifications for marksmanship competitions. Engraver Charles Barber was preparing new designs for the Army Ordnance Division.

"Skipping around" is permitted.

Your experiences are consistent with those of collectors not just of coins but anything. One wag commented "There are more crooks selling coins than in a pretzel factory." Some find a handful of dealers they trust, others go to coin shows where there are many sellers and they can compare prices on bullion and other bulk materials. The OP's observations are good ones and the caution expressed is entirely justified and reasonable. The best sellers are those who include knowledge and expertise with their coins - that is, they are not in business solely for the money: they talk, they listen, they help, they encourage. A few general thoughts: Anyone selling on TV or cable is ripping off buyers. Any coin sold in a mass mailing is a ripoff. Any coin sold in a general circulation newspaper ad is a ripoff. Anyone buying at a hotel is ripping off sellers.

Some collectors set a minimum FMV of $200 to $250 before they consider sending a coin for authentication and grading. That works out to a maximum of about 10% of the coin value to have it slabbed. To break even on selling, the owner has to get at least an extra 10%.

Keep it in the original package.

Proof sets like you describe are readily available. It is very unlikely that any of the coins in the set will justify the cost of authentication and grading plus 2-way postage. If you post a photo of each side, members might offer comments.

Designs, pattern and experimental pieces are also discussed in detail in all three of the Renaissance of American Coinage series of books, plus there are published articles on several individual short patterns such as Charles Barber's small run of Washington nickels.

"J1778" is an abbreviation for Judd 1778. This is the pattern piece number assigned from the reference book United States Pattern Coins originally by J. Hewett Judd, MD. Many pieces have been added and listings refined since Dr. Judd's original book in 1959. The current print edition is the 10th, but patterns and numbering are kept updated on the web site USpatterns.com, administered by Saul Teichman and Andy Lustig. An expanded pattern reference, United States Patterns and Related Issues, by Andrew Pollock was published by Bowers & Merena in 1994. It uses a similar numbering system using "P xxxx" as a code format. Parts of both references have been enlarged and superseded by newer research. This includes references such as United States Pattern Postage Currency Coins by David Cassel; Pattern and Experimental Pieces of WW-II, Private Pattern and Related Pieces: International Nickel & Gould Incorporated, most of the 1906, 1907, 1908 gold patterns by yours truly; and Rick Snow’s research into Indian and Flying Eagle cent patterns, among others.

For postal insurance, use the fair market value. But -- be prepared to substantiate your value if the coin is lost. That means photos, auctions of "identical" items, etc., or more depending of declared value. PS: As a new collector, the odds are your coin is worth $8 or maybe much less. Unusual or old do not equal valuable.