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Lincoln Date Set

19 posts in this topic

1909 non VDB or VDB will work. Both made at the philadelphia mint.

 

1960 Large Date

 

1982 Copper LD or Zinc

 

All the rest are just varities. Nothing needed there.

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What do you mean by "default 'P'" coins? One thing to note is that the 1992 wide and 1998, 99, 00 close AMs are somewhat difficult to find (I searched through 5000 cents and found none), but many folks do not consider them necessary for a simple date / mint mark set. Same with the 1960 as far as I know.

 

Also, the only way to tell the difference (without actually dissecting the coin) between the copper and zinc 1982 cents is to weigh them. The copper will weigh 3.1 gms and the zinc 2.5 gms. So you will also need a very sensitive scale. And, the 1982 comes in 7 different varieties since there was also a large and small date for each mint mark (blank and D) of each composition, with only the D copper small date not existing.

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Some people referr to it as bronze, but most call it copper. 1982 has 7 Cents. As long as you get one without a mint mark you are ok .

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Also, the only way to tell the difference (without actually dissecting the coin) between the copper and zinc 1982 cents is to weigh them. The copper will weigh 3.1 gms and the zinc 2.5 gms. So you will also need a very sensitive scale.

 

Pish - no you don't smile.gif

 

Just take a common pre-82 and a common post-82 cent out of your change and drop them on a hard table. Listen to the ring they make. There's a clear difference in that sound between the copper and the zinc cents. Then, just drop your '82 cents gently onto your desk from an inch or so above the surface. You can easily sort them without weighing.

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Be careful about buying the insert grade and designation. A coin might be graded MS65RD, but in reality be no better than MS64RB. Once you decide to sell the coins off, you will have a tougher time selling overgraded, or overdesignated, coins. My gut reaction is that if you want truly nice coins that are properly graded that you will spend in excess of your expected budget and it will take more time than you are alloting. Of course, if you hook up with a specialist dealer the time frame will shrink.

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Tom... Thanks!

 

I'd like to buy two multi-holder Lincoln sets... one with properly graded BN, RB and RD designations and one with properly graded MS-64, MS-65, MS-66, MS-67 and MS-68 Lincolns... anyone?

Are you asking that you would like to buy one multi-holder insert with one example each of BN, RB and RD and another multi-holder insert with one example each of MS64, MS65, MS66, MS67 and MS68? If so, you should realize that the color of a RD Lincoln cent has not always been consistent, because of alloy change, and that a Lincoln cent with RD designation from one era might not look the same as one from another era. Also, the cutoff for each color designation is rather fast-and-loose with the services, so you will have RB coins that might regrade BN while others might regrade RD. This is one reason why you have to be very careful in putting this set together. As for the grading set, you will have even more parameters since the grade is the sum of the luster, eye appeal, placement and number of marks and strike. Therefore, coins within grades can look wildly different. Finally, there were severe differences in strike over the years and the portrait has been redesigned, strengthened and had its profil reduced many times. Taking this into consideration, you would need many grading and color sets, which might not have the same years within their time frames, in order to have a decent representation of the "look" you are attempting to capture.

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My next question is going to be grade:

 

1909 - 1929 MS-65RD

1930 - 1982 MS-66RD

1983 - date MS-67RD

 

The 1983 date is obvious, should we use 1933 in lieu of 1933 for the 65-66 transition? This is going to be an exhibit she'll use in 2009 for her school and the local library.

 

Weeeehaaaa...I definitely want to see pictures once your set is completed!!!

 

thumbsup2.gif

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Welcome LDS to the forum.

Do yourself a favor. Look very carefully over your wants versus your needs. It will do your daughter no good to have goals nearly impossible to achieve in the time period given. Maybe cut back on the depth of your sets. Give the extremely hard to get coins to a reliable dealer to get for you and this will allow you more time to spend with your daughter getting the easier coins, thus making the experience more enjoyable and a better learning experience also. This is just MHO so take it with a grain of salt. Great luck and as ikenific said-show us some photos of the sets as they grow and when finalized-keep us posted.

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Hi and welcome to the forum LDS hi.gif

 

I think Jim has given some very good advice concerning collectors working with YN's.

 

Loss of interest can be a problem, along with the pressure of demanding problem free coins. Time spent searching together and finding that right coin would be priceless.

Besides that's only half the fun. 27_laughing.gifyay.gif

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Thanks!

 

It looks like we're going to complete a basic memorial set (104 coins) first and then we'll tackle the earlier coins. Same scenario - 1959-1982 (MS-66RD) and 1983-date (MS-67RD).

 

Can you answer a couple basic questions:

 

I know 1965-1967 SMS were pseudo proof sets... are the 2005-date SMS sets considered satin proof sets too, or are they mint sets? I expect none of the 2005-date SMS coins were ever released to circulation... correct?

 

Why doesn't NGC have any 1999 or 2000 "P" Lincolns slabbed without either a "Wide" or "Close" AM designation? If one is the default (Close), then why do they assign a designator to Close AM coins only during these two years?

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