Finished taking pictures of my coins...I think.

[jom]

Thanks to Shylock's (and others) help I've finally finished my website of my coin pictures. It's been a big pain in the asp but I finally got some shots I'm happy with. For the vast majority of the pictures I did NOT have to play with them in Photoshop to get them to match up with the real thing. A few of the pics I had to adjust the "brightness" and some I had to tweek the "color temperature" (really just moving the yellow tint to a blueish cast). Problems:

 

1) Getting the stupid glare from the slab out of the picture. I spent a lot of time fooling around with the stupid lights and probably creating permenant damage to my eyes from the bulb glare.

 

2) Had a difficult time with the NGC slabs because the white background made the apertaure (which was set to auto) close a bit so the area of the coin in the pic came out too dark. Contrary to Shylock's suggestions I was better off NOT using the White Balance for color in these cases. I did notice that the pics would end up with a higher color temp even after I went on to shoot more PCGS slabbed coins. Never quite figured out why.

 

3) Highly lusterous coins were difficult because of the "black and white" effect of the luster. It made the "dark" areas hard to see in the photo. It was particularly difficult when the nicely toned areas were in the dark areas.

 

4) I originally thought it would be easier without slabs but shooting my raw Kennedy's were hard since there wasn't anything to help tilt the coin slightly when I had lighting problems. Eventually ended up using a half of the snap-shut coin holder.

 

Photo set-up:

 

Nikon 950 set to Fine Resolution, Auto focus and aperature, No Flash, Macro mode.

Anywhere from one to three OTT lamps. Two of the type Shylock uses and one "swirl" type OTT.

 

My Website

 

jom

 

[truthteller]

Very impressive!

 

TRUTH

[jom]

Thanks...I just realized I forgot to add my 15-P Eagle on there. Overall, probably my nicest gold coin.

 

jom

[Weidel Legacy Collection]

Very, very nice pictures! Wow...you have done a GREAT job - thanks for the link to share them.

 

[Oldtrader3]

Your gold coin pics came out well, I think. They represent the various subtle green, gold and pink toning that gold gets.

[TomB]

I'm going to visit your web site right very soon but I wanted to let you know something before I forgot. If you are taking photos against a white background then you will fool the camera into thinking the image is brighter than it is, therefore, you may be able to get better images if you place black velvet over the slab with a cutout area around the coin. This will darken the field considerably and allow the camera to think the image is darker. It works well.

[TomB]

Nice photos!

 

I haven't looked through all of them yet but I have some impressions about what I have seen. The color of the gold coins is very nice, they do not appear to be overlit, and that allows one to see the coin as well as the luster. The '08 NM eagle has terrific original color! Do you think the alloy was heavy in copper for this one? The '71 and '73 JFK halves both appear to have been stored in a Dansco album for a long time with that blue-gold cast of haze on them. The WLH has really cool toning, you don't see them like that often. Your SLQs are lovely. I don't know if I like the '30 or '30-S better but I am leaning toward the '30-S. Those are also tough Mercs to get in the eye appeal that you have. The Lincoln also looks like it was in a Dansco. Lastly, that's a good looking heard of Buffs, don't let Hoot see them!

 

Nice coins!

[Oldtrader3]

Another trick that I use with 35mm is an 18% (Zone V) Gray Card over the coin with the same lighting as the coin on it to expose and lock the meter to Zone V exposure of the card. Then it does not matter what the coin matrix field color is. You get "normal", Zone corrected exposure of the coin.

[Hoot]

Very nice jom! Thanks for taking the time to show your coins - great job! You have some sweet buffs there along with some other fantastic coins!

 

Hoot

[jom]

Thanks folks!

 

TomB: Yeah, that is exactly what happened. Oddly, I did a white balance with the camera in "manual mode" (you'd know what I mean if you had a Nikon) then went back to auto to do the PCGS coins and I'd get different results than before I set the WB. Problem is it is NOT supposed to be in WB mode in "auto". I just simply do NOT know this camera and its workings well enough. Basically, I'm a photographic insufficiently_thoughtful_person...

 

Oldtrader3: Read my previous paragraph. I have NO idea what you are talking about... I guess I need to actually READ that "Digital Photography for Dummies" I bought.

 

TomB:

 

Too funny, the 08-P NM is a SCAN, I no longer own the coin so I couldn't take a pic. The 08-D is a camera shot so I'm not sure which you meant. () BTW, check out the 07-P I just added. I forgot to add that to the page earlier.

 

All the toned Kennedy's have been in a Dancso since mid-93. I believe we discussed this once over at the PCGS boards. I never knew Dansco albums toned...about 4 years into it I noticed. The colorful 82-P was the first I noticed....

 

The 30-S is my favorite of the two SLQ's.

 

The Lincoln I bought in a slab for $25 so I don't know where it had been. I consider it the steal of the century...the only Cent I own.

 

The 19-S was my first "big" purchase, in late 93. Before that I had just been putting together modern raw MS sets (such as the Kennedy's). The 18-S Dime I bought RAW (!) from Stacks (at the Long Beach show). I was exceedingly lucky I didn't get burned on that being that I had NO experience buying coins like that. The 26-D used to be a great coin but it seems to me to have darkened over the years....AT? Plus, I paid way too much for it. Let's just say I'm "buried" in it.

 

jom

 

 

 

[Oldtrader3]

Camera meters are calibrated to center their exposure meter range on an 18% Gray reflected light source. This exposure is named Zone V, meaning in the center of a 10 Zone visible light range of pure black (Zone I) to pure white (Zone X). Most 35mm color films operate in the Zone II-Zone VIII range.

 

You can buy an 18% Gray Card at most Pro-Camera stores, if you wish to try this method. The cards usually cost a couple bucks. The Zone System of photography was made famous by Ansel Adams and Fred Picker. It is still used extensively for black and white photography.

[Beijim]

Excellent explanation, OT3.

 

I might add that 18% Gray is used throughout cinematography not only for exposure control but to achieve correct color balance as well. The beauty of 18% Gray is that you get color correction for free. When you photograph 18% Gray under imperfect lighting conditions (color temperature incorrect for the film emulsion), you get an image in which the 18% Gray is biased by the color temperature mismatch. If you then correct the filmed 18% Gray to actual 18% Gray during printing or rendering, all other colors in the ensuing images will be corrected as well.

 

What does this have to do with coin photography? You can do the same thing to color correct your still digital photographs.

 

Here's how it works in motion photography: You run the camera for a few seconds on an 18% Gray card whenever the lighting setup changes. Then you film your takes. When the lab develops the negative and creates prints, they look for the 18% Gray card frames and set the printing lights (independently controllable red, blue, and green light sources) to correct the image back to 18% Gray. The print then looks natural until the next lighting change, where a new correction takes effect.

 

For coin photographs, you can take a picture of an 18% Gray card after your lighting setup is established. Use a tripod for the camera and set the lights exactly as you'll use them to shoot a series of coin photos. Then take your coin photos without changing the setup. Take another 18% Gray shot each time you change setups.

 

Now dump your photos into the computer. Load them into your photo editing software. Start with the 18% Gray card photo and use the software's color correction function to make the 18% Gray photo match the actual 18% Gray card (i.e. color neutral). By doing this, you add or subtract the appropriate red, blue, and green components that will make the other photos appear correct. Note the corrections you made and apply those same adjustments to your coin photos.

 

The idea is that because 18% Gray is color neutral (i.e. equal reflectance of red, blue, and green light components), any color cast in the 18% Gray surface in your photographed image will be from the lighting setup (or computer monitor). Remove the color cast to restore true 18% Gray, and anything else photographed under the same lighting conditions will be corrected appropriately.

 

Beijim

 

P.S. What is 18% Gray? It's also sometimes called "Middle Gray" and refers to the printed shade of gray (equal reflectance for red, green, and blue light) that appears to the eye to be midway between total white (100% reflectance) and total black (0% reflectance). This shade of gray reflects approximately 18% of the light it receives, hence 18% Gray.

[TomB]

Excellent post, Beijim!

 

I have copied what you wrote to save for my future reference. Thanks!

[EVillageProwler]

4) I originally thought it would be easier without slabs but shooting my raw Kennedy's were hard since there wasn't anything to help tilt the coin slightly when I had lighting problems. Eventually ended up using a half of the snap-shut coin holder.

 

I haven't gone to your site yet; figured I'll address this first...

 

You can still "tilt" raw coins by adjusting the angle of the lens to the coin and rotating the coin until you get the right light condition on the part of the coin you wish to accentuate.

 

And, Tom's comment about using a white background is important. However, I currently use a copystand with a clear glass platform that is sufficiently elevated from the table so as to present a neutral background.

 

EVP

 

[EVillageProwler]

Ok, I went to your website. I have one more comment: you have to work on your light situation.

 

IMO, your coins are being photographed at too small an angle between the lens and the coin. Do you look at a coin straight? No one looks at a coin head on. The coin is always at some sort of an angle.

 

With my setup, I have my lens, light and coin setup so that the light reflects off the coin and into the lens at an angle of somewhere around 45 degrees. But, that's only if I wish to take a fairly flat shot. For coins with particular cameo contrast or cartwheel luster, I will hold the coin in my hand and tilt the coin at a slight azimuthal angle to the copystand surface.

 

And, with toned coins, I will not hesitate to rotate the coin along an axis normal to the copystand surface so the light gets into the toned area nicely.

 

Then, I take cutouts and run them through a photo editor to get the correct contrast, brightness, etc. (I don't fake anything; I only try to bring out exactly what one will see when viewing the coin in person.)

 

Finally, be mindful that digital photography can accentuate the negatives of a coin too. What is actually a teeny scuff can look like the Grand Canyon after you take a macro shot! I know that some software, like the latest version of Adobe's Photoshop (7.X) can "smooth" out such blemishes. I don't like that, as I feel that is dishonest. But, I do have the choice of accentuating a different part of the coin so the teeny scuff is still there but only appears as a scuff rather than a huge chasm.

 

EVP

 

[jom]

Well, I tried every conceivable angle but if the angle gets too steep then the coin looks oblong (oval) rather than round.

 

I'll have to copy that Middle Gray info also....you guys are too technical for me now. But just wait...I'll be an expert in no time after I finish "Digital Photography for insufficiently_thoughtful_persons"! You'll see...

 

jom

[EVillageProwler]

I skipped over the technical bit, because I think digital photography is part technical and part "feel" or aesthetic. (Ok, in truth, I didn't want to strain my brain!)

 

Jom: I have no problems with a coin looking oblong. I try to keep the diagonal distortion to a minimum, and I also take square cutouts (using a selection tool from a photo editor) of the obv and rev images to minimize the appearance of the distortion.

 

Suppose you have a fully lustrous Morgan or Walker. Tilting the coin shows off the cartwheel. Photographing them head-on, and the coin looks either too dark or chrome-like. Your choice: gorgeous luster, or yucky!

 

EVP

 

[jom]

Well, most of the shots I took were at an angle. Shylock suggested I use putty for a way to prop up the coin and hold it at an angle. It would be "adjustable" since it was soft. Since I didn't have any putty around I ended up using two pieces chewing gum placed back in it's wrapper....

 

jom

[Beijim]

I should have mentioned in my previous post a shortcut you can take with some digital cameras that allows you to do color correction automatically in-camera, as opposed to in photo editing software.

 

The feature is called "white balance." On some cameras the adjustment is manual, and on others it's automatic. The automatic flavor makes life sweet.

 

The "white balance" feature allows you to tell the camera what it should consider to be neutral color (i.e. gray, or equal parts red, green, and blue). In the manual version, you add or subtract red, green, or blue independently until the image looks right. But that's a bit tricky because you're relying on a teensy little screen and eyeballing the result.

 

The automatic version is cool. You point the camera at an 18% Gray card and take a picture of it while the "white balance" feature is engaged. This tells the camera that the 18% Gray card is what the camera should interpret as neutral color. Internally, the camera compares the color values from the image it took to see if they're equal. If not, it applies appropriate corrections and remembers them. Thereafter, it applies the same exact correction to every photo you take until you set a new "white balance" correction or disengage the feature.

 

In other words, with the camera's automatic "white balance," you make the correction once in the camera, and the camera applies it to each photo in turn. Consequently, no color correction in the computer should be necessary.

 

Regards,

Beijim

 

[shirohniichan]

Nice photos, even if there aren't any trade dollars or twenty cent pieces.

 

For coins with particular cameo contrast or cartwheel luster, I will hold the coin in my hand and tilt the coin at a slight azimuthal angle to the copystand surface.

 

I'm going to have to use "azimuthal" in a conversation to impress my friends.

[jom]

I'm going to have to use "azimuthal" in a conversation to impress my friends.

 

If I heard you say "azimuthal", I'd probably respond "bless you"

 

jom

[leprecoin]

As a starter..... I Love your 13-S :-)

 

I notice you named all the files as _Small, Where is the big thing ?

I hope you saved it ;-)

 

Actually I love it so much that if you'll allow me I will love to make a mirror copy and host it on my site just for other people to enjoy.

 

let me know....

[EVillageProwler]

Wouldn't it be funny if I used that word incorrectly? Who'd know?!?

 

 

EVP

 

[jom]

Yeah, all my "large" versions are on my harddrive. I tried to limit the width of the pics to 600 pixels (using PS).

 

13-S eh? Well, it does seem to have some luster left but many MS 13-S's don't even have that much. You'll also note that the "13" in the date has some marks. That is some sort of die thing since you see that a lot with 13-S's.

 

What do you mean by "mirror"?

 

jom

[leprecoin]

Miror web site is an exect copy of the original site just hosted on a diff server.

 

Myself i like Adobe photoshop/image ready and they will both reduce the pic download time with minimize lost of quality.

 

Im too lazy and untalented for photograpy. so I simply scan them on a regular scanner.

 

the pictures are far from being perfect and very problematic when it comes to proofs.

 

anyways you can take a look to get the feel of it....

 

its a mess as I was too bussy latly but if you click around and magnify the pics you'll see it all.

 

its: Leprecoin.com

 

 

 

 

 

 

[crito]

WB is driving me nuts on my digital camera (Nikon CoolPix 4300). I can adjust it manually (has some great pre-sets for different types of light), but the corrections disappear when I switch back to macro/close-up sceen mode. @#%!^, looks like I have to do everything manually to get it right. Can't even use the auto-focus.

 

[jom]

WB is driving me nuts on my digital camera (Nikon CoolPix 4300). I can adjust it manually (has some great pre-sets for different types of light), but the corrections disappear when I switch back to macro/close-up sceen mode. @#%!^, looks like I have to do everything manually to get it right. Can't even use the auto-focus.

 

On the 950 the WB only can be used in Manual mode. It would seem that they could have fixed that for either the 995 or 4300.

 

By far the MOST irritating "feature block" on my 950 was the fact I could NOT use Macro mode with an auto-shutter release. That just blew my mind because "common sense" would tell you that one of the more important things you would need is an auto-shutter for close-ups. Then you could rid yourself of the inevitable "blur" while shaking the camera on close-ups. But NOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOO....

 

Did they fix that on the 4300 or 995?

 

jom

[Elbesaar]

Personnaly, I think you did a great job. Your Buffalos and Indian Eagles are great. My favorite coin is the Standing Liberty Quarter, and I look forward to seeing your set.

I am still a novice on the computer and would love to image my sets, but from what I hear from your experiences, its no easy task !!!

 

 

[stevepalm-migration]

Hi Jom,

I want to buy a camera to take pics of coins and was wondering if

you recommend I buy a used Nikon 950, 990, 995 or even a newer version.

Also, does your 995 screw into a tripod?

Thanks for any help.

[EZ_E]

 

I'm impressed all around! Great coins and great pics. The Kennedy's are even awesome. the '26 P SLQ, the buffalos, etc, etc. And you even have 9 $10 gold pieces.