Question about a "Matched set"

[Brotherman]

I’m thinking of doing a set of Walking Liberty halves with all the coins in the

same grade and overall look. Bruce called this a “matched set” if that isn’t

a popular term to use for this it should be.

 

I’ve pretty much ruled out buying anything online for this set. The lighting, type

of camera, and even different computer monitors can change the look of a coin.

I want to do this set in the VG to Fine range. The shade range could be

quite large on coins that have seen this much action.

 

My question is how do you accomplish this task? Do you carry your

collection around to see if a new purchase will match? Or does everyone

have a photographic memory?

 

Hays

[TomB]

The term "matched set" is common, accepted usage in numismatics. You can't match each coin perfectly, but you can certainly strive to have coins of very similar grade and appearance. You will likely buy some duplicates for your set, which is not necessarily a bad thing, and other coins will be impossible.

 

By the way, what grade range are you thinking about?

[Brotherman]

The term "matched set" is common, accepted usage in numismatics. You can't match each coin perfectly, but you can certainly strive to have coins of very similar grade and appearance. You will likely buy some duplicates for your set, which is not necessarily a bad thing, and other coins will be impossible.

 

By the way, what grade range are you thinking about?

 

I see my greenness rears it’s ugly head. I thought that was an

appropriate term!

 

I was thinking about doing it in VG to Fine.

 

Hays

[Hoot]

This could be quite a lovely set. You will develop an eye for the coins in your grade range and with the "look" you like, so photographic memory or not, you'll know a coin you like when you see it. The trick will be finding the coins problem-free. This should be central to your collection. Many tough coins in that series in the grade range you mention. You may want to look at a lot of walkers before you make your first purchase, just so you develop your eye. Keep us posted on your progress!

 

Hoot

[Bruceswar]

good luck on that walker set!

[DirtyGoldMan]

In the VG-F range, it should be much easier to match the coins than in the MS 63-65 range or AU 53-58 range. Buying online, with a return privilige, should not be a problem. In the low-mid circ range, lighting and photograpjhic skill are less an issue.

 

Good luck and have fun!

[Bruceswar]

In the VG-F range, it should be much easier to match the coins than in the MS 63-65 range or AU 53-58 range. Buying online, with a return privilige, should not be a problem. In the low-mid circ range, lighting and photograpjhic skill are less an issue.

 

Good luck and have fun!

 

I agree there. But I also agree that buying online takes some of the fun out of the hunt. I have yet to buy a coin for my my Washington Set online, unless you call trading with a board member online buying. The thrill of the hunt is what I like.

[Brotherman]

The shade of circulated coins is vast. Add that to uneven wear and I can see

how it would be more difficult to match an AU set.

 

But an MS set? Unless you are talking about toned coins how hard could it be

to match blast white? I might be more difficult to FIND them but it seems like

it would be easy to match them.

 

I’m not being flippant, just trying to learn.

 

Hays

[Regis44]

Brotherman,

I started similar several months ago and have purchased online, area shops(2), and club auctions. I'm in a small town area so shows are limited to one a year. I "was" going to work VG & F and later get into AU55-MS63. Well, later came pretty quick so I am actually working on 2 sets. The 2 sets are looking very different at the moment. VG-F are mostly below 1941 and higher grades are mostly above. I saw where someone mentioned un-damaged coins. That is a challange, especially if you included over-dipping as damaged. I don't know how you will pick a 'look' that is acheivable in the VG-F grade as so many have been cleaned at one sometime in their history. Not necessarily abrasively, so they just look a little brighter or darker.

 

Best of luck and there is great hel from members here both on and off the board.

 

Regis

[supertooth]

Hays-----Stick with a totally "FINE 12" set. That set will have Numismatic value. It can be done and it can be matched in color and it can be done off of Ebay----entirely. But, my friend, it takes time----a good to great eye and just about 2 thousand bucks or so in funds. I currently still do not have a digital camera that takes quality coin pictures----so I cannot prove it to you by showing you pictures. But my fine set [which is my lowest graded set] is almost a perfect set for grades and color match. But I am not writing to you about my sets. I want you to start out right. So I tell you to buy the charcoal colored coins. That deep battleship grey color. Like somebody rubbed dark fireplace ashes all over the coin. For that is what a truly 'original' Walker will look like----especially in the early years of 1916--33S----if it hasn't been fooled with. The lighter greys that you mostly see on Ebay are coins that have been washed or dipped or otherwise enhanced to make them sell better. But the 'almost black' look of many Walkers that have not been fooled with-----that is what you are looking for. PM me and talk all you want---if you want to. I love Walkers and try to educate others on what is right. Heck, we all make mistakes. I certaining did and still do. But I like to see guys cut their learning time down. There is no real need to start exactly at the bottom. Bob [supertooth]

[TomB]

Take Bob's advice on this series; I have seen his coins in-hand and they are terrific. However, I think that $2,000 is simply too low for a strictly F12 set because the better dates trade well above sheet and, by the time you find them all, prices are likely to have advanced.