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Have a 1969 s ddo proof penny
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12 posts in this topic

Need help can see the doubling trying to figure out on how and what to use to get the best pics to show on here to get help with it it's in a proof case will break it out if I have to to help verify it better any info would be gladly appreciated and helpful

PXL_20241023_002654055.jpg

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I have a Google pixel 8 pro phone with excellent features for the camera also have my coin microscope which is not the best to try and figure out to see the doubling better trying to figure out better pictures for those that help me out here so please work with me on getting better pictures on herePXL_20241023_004614690_MP2.thumb.jpg.058d6316e5380a23610ed5920bee63f7.jpg

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    If you think that the cent in your 1969 proof set is the very rare 1969-S doubled die obverse variety listed on p. 119 of your 2025 Red Book, it isn't! That variety is a circulation strike (not a proof) and has crisp, clear doubling on the date (not the mintmark, which was separately punched into the die at that time) and obverse lettering. The doubling is from a hub that pivoted in a clockwise or counterclockwise direction during the die making process rather than having a shallow extra image in a horizontal direction as in your images. Here are images of the circulation strike, "Red Book" variety from the NGC Coin Explorer:

1c%201969S%20DDO%20obv-815704-1581021420.jpg

815704-2.jpg

815704-3.jpg

    Please do not send pictures of a screen! Such images are too blurry and pixilated for us to see clearly. Convert the images on the computer generating them into files in an allowed format and size, and attach those files. The images, like those above, should include a cropped full coin image (preferably of each side of the coin) and pertinent closeups. A significant die variety should be observable under no more than 7x magnification. From the images you have provided, it appears that your coin exhibits common strike doubling, a.k.a. machine or mechanical doubling--shallow, shelflike secondary images without a gap or "notch" between the primary and secondary images. (Did you read the articles on this subject from NGC and doubleddie.com to which I provided links in your previous topic?)

   Neither NGC VarietyPlus (Lincoln Cents, Memorial Reverse (1959-2008) | VarietyPlus® | NGC--set button at top right from "MS" to "PF") nor the current (6th) edition of the Cherrypickers' Guide to Rare Die Varieties lists a doubled die obverse variety for the 1969-S proof cent. It is highly unlikely that any significant doubled die variety would be discovered 55 years after these coins were issued. (There could be minor varieties listed on such sites as doubleddie.com or varietyvista.com.) 

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Really impossible to say much from your photos.   I think we asked you not to provide photos of your microscope screen as those are badly out of focus and pixilated all to heck.   You should be able to download those photos you take with the scope and upload them directly here.   What little I can make out is shadows and maybe some worthless strike doubling.

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On 10/19/2024 at 2:37 AM, powermad5000 said:

Hello and welcome to the forum!

Ditch the high mag!
If this were an actual proof, you would not need mag to see if it had no S on it.

 

Also just a learning question trying to learn if there not a few verities of the double died coins or only one specific error for the coin and also is there a book I can read to learn more about this kind of topic thank you for the help and guidance

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I can see something is wrong with the coin allot of the letters are thicker and have something on the tips of them I can see the coin is different but need some kind of enhancement tool to see it it's hard by the time I try to get a good enough picture on here it gets all distorted I have been trying to figure out how to get the best and clearest photos but still having some issues just asking please work with me on getting better I will figure out just get to excited and try to find out if I got something special worse then a little kid sorry but I do love the coin collecting hobby

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   I already provided you with links that explain and illustrate the differences between coins struck from doubled dies and coins that exhibit strike doubling, die deterioration doubling and other forms of "worthless" doubling, which make up the vast majority of "doubling" found on coins. Have you examined them? You could go to whitman.com and purchase the three volumes of The Cherrypickers' Guide to Rare Die Varieties, which also contain an appendix entitled "Doubled Dies vs. Other Forms of Doubling", but that shouldn't be necessary for a new collector who really needs to master more basic topics first.

   To quote from the appendix, "The difference between die doubling [resulting in doubled die coins, which may have collector value] . . . and the more confusing [and "worthless"] forms of doubling can be very challenging to explain, and even more difficult for a novice to comprehend.  Additionally, there are times when determining the difference can be frustrating even for a very experienced collector. This section will help you learn the differences. But reading alone will not do it all; you must examine numerous coins before you can expect to have a solid grasp of the differences between die doubling and other forms of doubling."

   The images of the actual 1969-S doubled die obverse cent that I posted above are a good example of a major doubled die. Here are images of the obverse of a 1971-S cent (full obverse and closeup) that features "worthless" strike doubling on the date. Note the shallowness of the secondary image and the lack of any gap or "notch" between the primary and secondary images:

1971-Scentstrikedoublingobv..thumb.jpg.c04fcc7254d8d7a2a0e21c6a09f6adce.jpg

1971-Scentstrikedoublingcloseup.jpg.6ed4b93b6a3054828fc4e175e385f822.jpg

    Images of at least the quality of these--mine aren't great either--would be necessary to give a firmer opinion on your 1969-S proof, but based on what I can see from the current images, your coin does not exhibit die doubling.

 

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Thank you for the input I just started learning about the different impressions which ones are good and which ones are worthless takes time to learn the difference just minute subtle details can make or break a coin thanks for all the help in catching on so much to learn master YODA but hard work studying one will become Jedi master of your as serious as I am about learning to collect coins

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On 10/22/2024 at 9:59 PM, RAM1012 said:

I can see something is wrong with the coin allot of the letters are thicker and have something on the tips of them I can see the coin is different but need some kind of enhancement tool to see it it's hard by the time I try to get a good enough picture on here it gets all distorted I have been trying to figure out how to get the best and clearest photos but still having some issues just asking please work with me on getting better I will figure out just get to excited and try to find out if I got something special worse then a little kid sorry but I do love the coin collecting hobby

Roger that. You have been given the proper advice on books and resources. As far as photos, there is a section of the forum titled Testing 1...2...3 where you can post as many images as you like without "disrupting" a thread or the forums. I have a Pixel 6 and find that once I take a clear photo of a coin using 1X or 2X, and then crop the photo to show as little of the background as possible, when I post the photos on here, they come out pretty good. At least good enough for anybody to see features I want them to see. As for closeups, I will use 3X or 4X to take a picture with my phone of a smaller "area of interest". Then I still crop that photo to show just what I want people to see and it usually comes out clear enough and large enough to allow people to see a particular feature. The photos thing is probably the hardest to get right on here, so don't give up. Keep trying and eventually you will find out what works with your particular phone.

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