Real or fake? Came from a local coin store for the morgan and the seated liberty I got years ago through trade 1 1

[Ronnie Grow]

[Greenstang]

Both are counterfeits. If genuine, they would each be in the four figure range.

[Ronnie Grow]

If you will. Can you please describe to me what about them makes you believe they are counterfeit? That way I know what I'm talking about when I return them at the coin shop. I have a handful of other Morgan's from the same shop as well.

[Greenstang]

The easiest way to tell is compare the dates with a genuine coin. They are both wrong.   
The position of the date on the Morgan is wrong and the seated dollar is not even close.
There are other markers but you only need one to show they are counterfeit.

If you don’t mind me asking, how much did you pay for the Morgan, that might be a telling sign.

Edited August 14 by Greenstang
Added copy

[Ronnie Grow]

To be honest, I can't remember exactly. They keel the nicer and graded coins in the glass case and I found this one in a box of Morgan's there that are supposed to be common dates.

[Sandon]

   The person operating the "coin store" from which you obtained these items has no business being a coin dealer. These pieces are obvious fakes whose surfaces and design details do not match the genuine pieces. Compare them with the images of genuine examples on such legitimate sites as The NGC Coin Explorer, Online Coin Catalog Search Page - Coin Explorer | NGC (ngccoin.com), or PCGS Coinfacts, https://www.pcgs.com/coinfacts.  If you want to collect uncertified coins--or even certified ones--it is essential to know what genuine ones look like to protect yourself from all but the truly deceptive counterfeits. You should return these items and demand the return of the items you traded for them or their fair value.

   Two old sayings are applicable to your situation. The first is, "Buy the book before the coin!"  Today, this includes reliable online resources. (Many are not reliable and contain misinformation.) See the following forum topics, which identify some of the legitimate resources:

   The second old saying is, "There is no Santa Claus in numismatics!"  A genuine 1870-CC dollar with this approximate level of detail would sell for at least $2,000.  Due to this value, nowadays one could expect it to be in a certified holder. A genuine 1891-CC Morgan dollar would sell in the Extremely Fine to About Uncirculated lever for approximately $200 to $350.  What was the market value of the pieces you gave in trade?

[Ronnie Grow]

I completely agree with you about that. Most of my coin amd bill collection is all graded by ngc or pcgs or certified elsewhere. But all of my graded stuff is from ngc or pcgs. I started coin collecting a little over 2 years ago when.i met an older man that I did some work for. Now i have to check every single piece of money I get and I also get rolled coins and bands of bills regularly to go through them. I have a penny that has massive striking issues and errors on it and a few other coins that I can just not find anything on. I want to find out if they are worth having graded or not!

[Greenstang]

We would like to see some of your other coins.  Post each one on its own thread with a clear photo of both sides.   
Be prepared to be disappointed though, about 99% of supposed errors posted on here are damage, not actual errors.

[Sandon]

   I don't know what you mean by "certified elsewhere". By "certified", I mean that a coin has been graded and encapsulated by a reputable top tier (NGC, PCGS, CAC Grading) or second tier (ANACS, ICG) third-party grading service, which also entails authentication.  

  It is very unlikely that you will ever find a coin worth submitting to a third-party grading service in your change or in random accumulations of circulating coins. An individual coin should be worth at least several hundred dollars to be worth submitting, and you need to learn how to grade and otherwise evaluate coins yourself before you can determine whether a coin is likely to have such value. The resources identified in the topics linked in my previous reply should help you obtain the necessary knowledge, as will your attendance at coin shows and coin club meetings, where you can examine a variety of coins and speak with knowledgeable collectors and dealers.

   You are welcome to post clear, cropped images of coins about which you have questions as separate topics on the "Newbie Coin Collecting Questions" forum.

[Ronnie Grow]

I was referring to CAC ETC. They are encapsulated with certification numbers

[Ronnie Grow]

What do you think of this bad boy. Got it from an arcade awhile back

[Sandon]

     Please post clearer photos that are cropped to show as little as possible of the surface surrounding the coin. Based on the current images, the 1875-CC twenty cent piece appears to be genuine, with Very Good details, though harshly "cleaned". 

   Never hold a collectable coin in your bare hands, except by its edge if you must!  Skin oils are quite detrimental.

[Ronnie Grow]

I've got the dime, quarter and half dollar as well. All Cc early 1870's

[Greenstang]

Ronnie Grow

As I stated earlier, post each coin on its own thread. It gets confusing with    
more than one at a time. And why are you holding it in your hand. Do you.  
not have a flat surface somewhere to put it on.

Edited August 14 by Greenstang

[powermad5000]

As a note to the OP, if we seem "hesitant" to describe exactly what we are seeing when we determine a coin(s) to be counterfeit, it is because we are hesitant. This is an open forum where anyone in the world can come here and read things so if we describe in detail what we see wrong on posted coins that are counterfeit, we in essence would be helping the counterfeiters make better fakes. So, our responses will be more "obtuse" or "general". We might just say the numerals are "off", but not say exactly why.

I hope this helps make sense of some of the given responses.