2003 2oz Australian Kookaburra. Mint other than some minor scratches. Is it worth submitting? 1 1

[BillyC41]

Hello to you all,

I'm a newbie at grading. While I've been collecting for a while now, I'm just not sure which coins are worth submitting. So for my first ever post and question.

I have this beautiful 2003 2 oz Kookurra, the reverse is perfect to my eye, but the obverse has some scratches on the Queen's face which really bummed me out.

So, does anyone think I should give it a shot and send it in. Thanks to you all in advance and I look forward to talking or chatting with you guys in the future!

All the best,

Billy

[Fenntucky Mike]

On 7/23/2024 at 4:06 PM, BillyC41 said:

Hello to you all,

I'm a newbie at grading. While I've been collecting for a while now, I'm just not sure which coins are worth submitting. So for my first ever post and question.

I have this beautiful 2003 2 oz Kookurra, the reverse is perfect to my eye, but the obverse has some scratches on the Queen's face which really bummed me out.

So, does anyone think I should give it a shot and send it in. Thanks to you all in advance and I look forward to talking or chatting with you guys in the future!

All the best,

Billy

Welcome to the forum. 

In general, for NCLT (noncirculating legal tender) pieces, if they won't grade 70 it's not worth it and if those are scratches on the obverse this piece will not come close to sniffing a 70, or 69, or even a 68. Hardly any NCLT pieces are worth the cost of submitting even if they do grade 70. Under no circumstances would I send that coin in for authentication and grading, if it were mine I'd get what I could for it and look for a better example. Also, that is either a reflection around the right dot next to "2 DOLLARS" or the start of a grade A milk spot, another pitfall of modern NCLT silver pieces. Kooks, , are a popular series to collect, I have several, nice to see one posted here.  

[BillyC41]

Thanks so much for your input. You just confirmed what I was thinking. That spot you were referring to, it is just a reflection. I hate those milk spots.

I love the kooks as well. I have 21 graded a 70 so far, so I still have a ways to go...an expensive one at that. Thanks again, I really appreciate your advice.

 

[RWB]

If this came in a plastic capsule, it should have been left alone. Each time a coin like yours is exposed to air the chances of contamination increase. Since there is no economic advantage to having someone else tell you what you should already know, there is noting you your to gain.

[BillyC41]

It did come in its original capsule. I only opened it once to take pics. There's nothing wrong in asking for advice since I've never submitted a coin for grading. There is certainly nothing to gain from your reply.

[Henri Charriere]

On 7/23/2024 at 6:02 PM, BillyC41 said:

It did come in its original capsule. I only opened it once to take pics. There's nothing wrong in asking for advice since I've never submitted a coin for grading. There is certainly nothing to gain from your reply.

Actually, there is something to be gained... You will always get a mix of positive and negative responses. One thing that was not mentioned, possibly because we took for granted everyone's familiarity with the product, is the small print found under KOOKABURRA on the reverse.  It is a bullion coin and, speaking from experience, I can assure you, unless there are other redeeming factors, this "coin" which was not minted for circulation represents nothing more than a small premium over melt.

I once had a 1-Kilo size Kook which one dealer, apparently more familiar with junk than articles of numismatic value, seriously wanted to decapsulate, for testing.  Testing!  One would think weight, fineness and a Mint-produced product would obviate the need for such unnecessary action.  I asked him, "Then what?"  With a poker face, he said, "Melt it." Meshugana!

As a general rule, such pieces should be permitted to lie in state, in perpetuity, in OGH, as there is no purpose served in having them formally graded.  Way I see it, the one sure way to recover any additional costs occurs when silver (or gold) spot rises.

Edited July 24 by Henri Charriere
Word substitution.

[GoldFinger1969]

On 7/23/2024 at 4:38 PM, BillyC41 said:

I have 21 graded a 70 so far, so I still have a ways to go...an expensive one at that. Thanks again, I really appreciate your advice.

How many did you buy ?

I like the Australian Wedge-tailed Eagle coins myself. I've bought 1 or 2 that grade 70, but the rest after that I am OK with raw or even sub-70 grades if I buy them certified.  For me, 70 is a novelty for just 1 or 2 tops, not the entire collection.

[powermad5000]

On 7/23/2024 at 3:06 PM, BillyC41 said:

So, does anyone think I should give it a shot and send it in. Thanks to you all in advance and I look forward to talking or chatting with you guys in the future!

Hello and welcome to the forum!

Noting the actual scratches on this, I just wanted to resound the opinion to not submit this for grading, and from your other 70's you mentioned (nice!), I would also second that your best bet would be to divest yourself of this particular piece and find a nicer one.

Don't take some of the opinions too seriously. There are some on here you need to have a "thick skin" for, but for the most part, everyone here is just trying to point you in the right direction. Keep posting and asking and you can chat all you want on here. As QA might say, Man, I love this place! 

[Henri Charriere]

True, if you had opened the capsule which, unlike TPGS encapsulations, are not welded shut or otherwise "locked" or hermetically sealed, and observed facial abrasions -- one of places collectors look at first -- grading becomes a moot question.  As a bullion collector (who may fancy birds) if "flawless" coins of anything depicted appeals to you, by all means sell it and acquire something else. I believe silver spot was in the 14's when my purchase was made for just under $500.  Today, of course, it would command twice as much money.  As a newcomer, irrespective of subject matter, my only advice would be strive to acquire the best available pieces. Those you or your heirs sell to will not relish the thought of having to "explain" why your acquisitions deserve higher prices. Capiche?

[762x39]

I'm a new member, so my opinion is of no import. First post, in fact... But, as a kook collector I'd be happy to take that flawed beauty off your hands. I'd look for a better example as well, but use it as a place holder in my date run in the meantime. Completing even a flawed set is an achievement, my "Mercury" dime set is a prime example that most here would turn their noses up at, but it's my set and I'm proud of where it is.

[Halbrook Family]

Does a 70 make it worth that much more? I thought these were just made for the silver value. I got the Koala 2018 1 oz. I paid a couple of bucks over melt but aren't they just worth melt value? Aren't these things mass produced? You can put it in some holder with a autograph on it but it's 2 oz's of silver. Am I right? That is why I bought mine.  

[powermad5000]

On 8/17/2024 at 9:09 PM, 762x39 said:

Completing even a flawed set is an achievement, my "Mercury" dime set is a prime example that most here would turn their noses up at, but it's my set and I'm proud of where it is.

This is what the hobby is about. You are free to collect whatever pieces you want in whatever condition you want them in. Where we have problems in this hobby is when someone isn't realistic about what they have and believe it to be of some kind of value that is unreasonable.

It seems you are well engaged with exactly what you have. Kudos!