1834 Capped Bust Half Dime 1 1

[Numisdoclaw]

I am learning more and more everyday by reading and taking into regard what has been said here to me as I go.  I like this half dime,  and it has very good details. Is the blobbing of metal in the curl of the S a indicator mark from a die, aiding in the identification of it being authentic? The coin looks a bit cartoonish to me.  Your thoughts and comments are greatly appreciated.  I am considering purchasing.  Thank you.  [Yes I know it's been cleaned.  I can tell by the darkness around the details]

Edited July 23 by Numisdoclaw

[Henri Charriere]

I believe all things considered, if the FMV is reasonable, I would give you my blessing because the surface preservation is remarkable for a coin of this vintage. And although it is considered bad form to even suggest as much on the Forum, a coin that had been subjected to a "cleaning" at one time can still evolve over time.  Those with experience in experimenting with elixirs like acetone might advise skipping that in favor of one member's suggestion I try a warmed EVOO bath. Bottom line, if the price is within reason -- and you can use the perception of "cleaning" as a bargaining chip, I would certainly feel comfortable acquiring it.  And when you do, you might even consider posting it on the nickle thread where five-cent pieces as old as this one are seldom seen.

Edited July 23 by Henri Charriere
Correct spelling of word.

[Mike Meenderink]

Hello and welcome to the forum. The 1834 Capped Bust Dime you posted is genuine and is in VF 20 (Very Fine) condition. The coin has a value of $115.00 straight graded. The coin appears to be cleaned which would result in a VF Details Cleaned grade. Details graded coins are generally valued at approximately 1-3 grades lower (not always) than the stated grade on the holder. Factors determining value of details grade coins include rarity, coloring, eye appeal, severity of issue, general appeal of the coin as well as many other factors. The coin IMO is worth $55.00-$65.00. (NGC GV G-6 $65/ NGC GV VF-20 $115) The coin is an average circulated coin with some nice age to it. IMO this coin is not worth the cost of grading and encapsulation. The coin would make a nice spot filler in any half dime collection. Cheers!

Edited July 23 by Mike Meenderink

[Sandon]

On 7/23/2024 at 6:36 AM, Numisdoclaw said:

Is the blobbing of metal in the curl of the S a indicator mark from a die, aiding in the identification of it being authentic?

   The clog or "blob" in the second "S" in "STATES" is a die chip that developed as the die was used. Noticeable changes in coins struck at different stages of the dies' life are referred to as "die states", especially for earlier U.S. coins. Your 1834 half dime appears to be of die variety LM-2 (V-1). Both of the coins of that variety shown on VarietyPlus show this chip at two different earlier stages of development. See Early Half Dimes (1792-1837) | VarietyPlus® | NGC (ngccoin.com). The earliest coins struck from this die pair may have not shown the chip at all. 

   Although the presence of some stage of this die chip is consistent with the coin being genuine, it is not proof of authenticity, as the best counterfeits are modeled from genuine coins. No one characteristic would constitute such proof.

  Are you familiar with the differences in the die making and manufacturing processes for early (pre-1837) U.S. coins from those minted thereafter?  This information can be helpful if you collect these coins.

Edited July 23 by Sandon
added omitted word

[powermad5000]

On 7/23/2024 at 5:36 AM, Numisdoclaw said:

Is the blobbing of metal in the curl of the S a indicator mark from a die, aiding in the identification of it being authentic? The coin looks a bit cartoonish to me.

While the "blob" as you refer to it, is a die chip that can be used in some instances as an indicator of being authentic if it matches a known variety, but the problem with using a die chip as a marker is not the best thing to use. While it can be one, better markers would be die gouges, shape of letters and numerals and positions of letters and numerals which are things on the die that will be constant while those dies are in use. A die chip can move or it can even actually separate and fall out from the die after successive strikes so it is not the best feature to use when identifying varieties.

Noticing several posts you have made regarding authenticity, this is a skill learned over time, but you have to remember that even the most experienced collectors have to deal with this and can have a screwup. Unless a counterfeit is poorly made, or doesn't have the right coloration, or is cartoonish as you stated, with obvious details off from a genuine specimen, then it can be quite difficult to tell some of the more advanced fakes. When in doubt, look up known varieties either on here or on the PCGS page, or sites like Variety Vista, or Wexlers. If after all that, things still look "off" you can post here, but ultimately, sometimes having the coin in hand is the only way to determine authenticity to check thickness, diameter, weight, and if possible metal composition.

We all have to deal with counterfeits in the marketplace and many on here will probably be able to tell you of an instance where they got burned. Keep in mind the series you are dealing with. While any coin can be faked, you have to think sometimes of your risk factor. Half dimes are not as popular to fake as would be high dollar Lincoln Wheat cents, Morgan Dollars, or gold coins. Now we even have to deal with fake slabs sadly. Things to consider when buying are mainly who you are buying the coin from. Take any reviews seriously, especially if there are bad ones. If you are unsure of your skills, you can always buy slabbed coins. Buying from a dealer is better than buying from Average Joe. Doesn't mean not to buy from Average Joe, just means you have to do a lot more due diligence and research and anything making your gut turn and brain have issues should be your signal to not buy. Obviously buying from well known and well reputable major dealers and auction houses is the safest route. If you train yourself to do a proper examination process for each and every coin you wish to get, you will have less to worry about.

[powermad5000]

On 7/23/2024 at 5:36 AM, Numisdoclaw said:

The coin looks a bit cartoonish to me.

Check this against known and genuine specimens. This particular coin does seem to match the variety stated by Sandon in his comment. I noticed when looking up your coin there are several differences on the reverses of the positioning of the lettering on the reverses which is common of early coins, and just means you have to look at all the presented known varieties before you start saying it doesn't match anything. The look of this coin is consistent with known varieties.

If you don't have any of these half dimes yet, these are very small coins, a little bigger than the eraser on the back of a pencil. I find it amazing at the time they were able to get the amount of detail they did on these with such a small area to work with.

[Numisdoclaw]

I do know that diagnostics are a tool to be used in the process of authentication.  Early US type coins are indeed exceedingly more difficult when it comes to this, as quality control wasn't nearly as much as it today,  as well as resource being more limited. Dies used past their life, etc. I am absorbing any knowledge like a sponge you all will allow me to. Keep it coming.  I appreciate you.