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1831 Capped Bust Half Genuine Or counterfeit?
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15 posts in this topic

    I see nothing based on the photos that signifies to me that this 1831 Capped Bust half dollar is counterfeit, but I am troubled that I checked it against the images of all of the Overton die varieties shown on NGC VarietyPlus and couldn't find a match.  It might be helpful if you could provide better cropped images taken from directly overhead instead of at an angle and if possible, also provide images of the coin's edge.

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On 7/21/2024 at 7:54 PM, Sandon said:

    I see nothing based on the photos that signifies to me that this 1831 Capped Bust half dollar is counterfeit, but I am troubled that I checked it against the images of all of the Overton die varieties shown on NGC VarietyPlus and couldn't find a match.  It might be helpful if you could provide better cropped images taken from directly overhead instead of at an angle and if possible, also provide images of the coin's edge.

I cant get the edges right now,  but it does have the proper lettering, half a dollar, etc

20240721_203835.jpg

20240721_203822.jpg

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Hello and welcome to the forum. The 1831 Capped Bust 1/2 you posted is IMO genuine and exhibits normal even circulation wear. However, the coin has been harshly cleaned. I would grade this coin at VF Details cleaned Cheers!

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   The coin now appears to be of the O-110 variety. Although counterfeits are sometimes closely modeled after genuine coins, it is likely a genuine coin. 

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Pardon my impertinence, but it would seem to me the time to ask questions is before an acquisition is made, not after.

In this instance, the outlay may seem modest, but there may come a time when a seller's refund policy becomes an issue.  

Example:  you purchase something that is indeed of questionable appearance or provenance.  Only thing is their written policy is posted on the wall (or on your receipt):  "NO REFUNDS."

Another...  Something a member was kind enough to share with the membership. When does buying a coin, "sight-unseen," become "sight-seen"?  The answer may surprise you: when a conpany has a written policy that it will accept returns (in otherwise untampered with "holders") within a reasonable amount of time.  So, if you were to buy an item based solely on a photo of the coin or encapsulated coin and grade awarded and the TPGS' certification number, such as one would see on eBay, and little else, it is of paramount importance the concern you are dealing with ideally have a stellar reputation with reviews to match and uses language minus the flowery excesses.

The foregoing advisory, while not comprehensive, may be of benefit to all within the sound of my voice.  

Watch out for Red Flags like "rare," "17 people are watching this," and "ONLY ONE LEFT!!!"  As always, if it sounds too good to be true, it may very well be.  I believe it to be the duty of every member to apprise the membership of any goings-on they encounter that may seem odd or not right or outright fraudulent including obvious scams.  🐓 

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On 7/22/2024 at 8:04 AM, Numisdoclaw said:

Once again, I appreciate those replies with information that is valuable and with substance to my specific to my question. 

The good thing about online forums is that you can just scroll right past the nonsense without being forced to read it.

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On 7/22/2024 at 1:18 PM, Numisdoclaw said:

Think it's time I commited a grave sin and took a scratch sample from the edge damage that is already present and check the sample with acid. Place your bets now.:pullhair:

I don't think there is any reason whatsoever to do this to the coin. This test would prove literally nothing. Even if the coin were to be a counterfeit, the counterfeiters have been known to use metals similar to the alloy mix of genuine examples, even using amounts of silver or gold (albeit less grains than a genuine example) but done so to aid in deception. It does not seem from the responses that there is any reason to believe you are in possession of a fake so I am not sure why you would want to damage the coin further to perform this test. 

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