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Getting a coin Graded
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9 posts in this topic

I hear you guys talk about this all the time. But just how much should a coin be worth to have it graded? I got a couple of Canadian coins I am wondering about. I'll post some pics after work. The 1916d dime I would guess as well. 

The prices for canada stuff is all over the place. I got a very nice 1921 dime. AU at least. Cleaned I don't know. 

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There is no exact "right" value a coin has to have to be worth slabbing, the key is do you know the value of the coin and why you want it slabbed.   Many low value coins get slabbed simply because the submitter wanted it slabbed.   As an example, not long ago I bought from a dealer a PCGS AU58 slabbed Roosevelt dime for $9, it would have cost the submitter at least $30 to slab that coin.   Why it was slabbed I have no idea, heck it wasn't even worth the $9 I paid but I wanted it for a slabbed type set and so I bought it.

I have many MS63-64 Morgan dollars that are slabbed which are worth under $75, would I have submitted those coins, no, but it was worth it for whomever did so.

Ultimately its worth slabbing a coin if it is worth it to you the submitter, you may get some side eye what the heck were you thinking looks or comments if you slab a bunch of low value "pocket change".    But this is a hobby, so if it makes sense to you and you want to do it then ultimately that is what matters.

As an aside, I personally would not spend the money to slab a coin under $100, but as you have read many others have a higher value threshold.

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Posted (edited)

As far as your question, my response which will also be just my opinion is that it is your money and you can slab whatever you want. If you have a coin from the past that may have little to no value but sentimental value to you or may have some personal story attached to and you want to get it put into a slab, you can spend the $19+ to have it slabbed.

If you have an exceptional looking coin with little value and you want to keep it protected and want it graded and don't care about the costs, then submit it. It is your money thus it is your determination.

That said, HOWEVER, why you hear about values and slabbing is for several reasons. I'll make a partial list and let others add to it.

Protection : I want to protect my coin. Then don't slab. You can but there are other options as well being cardboard flips, circular clamshells, square clamshells, or plastic tubes.

Display : I want to be able to display my coins. Then don't slab. You can but you could put them into an album, or your make your own cases for flips.

Grade : I want my coins graded. Then don't slab. You can but you can also self grade your coins.

If you want guarantees of authenticity, or specific variety attributions and you are unsure of your skills to determine, or need it for a registry set, then you are going to have to pay to have it slabbed.

 

The reason we throw out these numbers when it comes to grading and slabbing is because of cost and of spending money wisely (if we can save some money we have more to buy more coins :wink:). It costs a lot to submit coins. And we also are aware of what happens when we go to sell our coins (if the word Greysheet has no meaning to you, take one of your slabs to a dealer and see what you get offered). My last submission had roughly only 23 coins in it and it cost every bit of $800 when all was said and done. I personally slab what I want to slab regardless of value. That does not mean I spend my money superfluously or stupidly. As the costs of submission has risen a lot in recent years, it has changed the way I submit. I now only submit coins with value of over $200. I have changed my collecting habits as well because grading is so expensive. I only look for either the top end of moderns to submit, and I have gone into more of a saving mode to buy coins that used to be out of reach. The theory being if I get higher dollar coins to begin with, then my submissions will cost less because I will be submitting less coins.

Each person will have their own threshold number. Some might say it needs to be worth over $100, some $300, some will not submit till the value of a coin is over $500. It is as personal as is what types of coins each person is collecting as each collector also has their own different budget to spend on coins and grading.

 

Edited by powermad5000
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If you hit a 61 or 62 you'd be doing very well . But are these a au50? Or even that? Trying to get to know these coins. I don't really see any in hand to know better. 

DSC02844.JPG

DSC02846.JPG

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I would say all three are between a 35-40.   
Go by the wear of the small beads between the diamonds on the rim of the crown.   
This is the first wear point. On yours they missing or nearly missing.

Maybe this will help

 

1921 10cent.jpg

Edited by Greenstang
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On 7/9/2024 at 2:00 PM, powermad5000 said:

As far as your question, my response which will also be just my opinion is that it is your money and you can slab whatever you want. If you have a coin from the past that may have little to no value but sentimental value to you or may have some personal story attached to and you want to get it put into a slab, you can spend the $19+ to have it slabbed.

If you have an exceptional looking coin with little value and you want to keep it protected and want it graded and don't care about the costs, then submit it. It is your money thus it is your determination.

That said, HOWEVER, why you hear about values and slabbing is for several reasons. I'll make a partial list and let others add to it.

Protection : I want to protect my coin. Then don't slab. You can but there are other options as well being cardboard flips, circular clamshells, square clamshells, or plastic tubes.

Display : I want to be able to display my coins. Then don't slab. You can but you could put them into an album, or your make your own cases for flips.

Grade : I want my coins graded. Then don't slab. You can but you can also self grade your coins.

If you want guarantees of authenticity, or specific variety attributions and you are unsure of your skills to determine, or need it for a registry set, then you are going to have to pay to have it slabbed.

 

 

At the moment I am collecting Canadian and GB coins. Living in the US there isn't much to compare some of the coins to. The 16D US dime I got would be worthy even though it's in rough shape just to get a genuine on it. 

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On 7/10/2024 at 8:27 AM, Greenstang said:

I would say all three are between a 35-40.   
Go by the wear of the small beads between the diamonds on the rim of the crown.   
This is the first wear point. On yours they missing or nearly missing.

Maybe this will help

 

1921 10cent.jpg

That's what to look for in these coins? Thanks so much. 

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While member Sandon has not weighed in as of post time, I automatically defer to him on certification costs.

Why?  Because having mulled over his replies to date on the general question, he does something I like, whether inadvertently or by design:  he studious avoids the tendency to provide low-ball figures.  There is nothing worse to a collector than to find the information he was given, presumably in good faith, was nowhere near the Total Cost staring him in the face. With a higher figure, the collector will be immensely satisfied when the fees he expected to pay are nowhere near that.

There are two matters which ought to be addressed: the existence of "grading vouchers" available with some memberships, and bulk submissions. The former is self-explanatory.  The latter bears mentioning since it is quite possible a coin that would not ordinarily be cost-effective for submission, may have been the beneficiary of lower submission costs. As it is said, membership has its privileges.

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