Nessa4va Posted June 28 Share Posted June 28 Is this a Large or Small date penny, and is the mint mark doubled. Plus is it a proof coin. Thank you in advance for your help. 😁 Also please excuse my photos, I have an Android phone. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandon Posted June 28 Share Posted June 28 (edited) This is a "large date" or "low 7". Please review the explanation and images that I posted in my reply to your last topic on this subject. The San Francisco mint struck cents with "S" mintmarks for circulation as well as proofs from 1968 through 1974.This coin is one of the 690,560,004 1970-S cents struck for circulation, not one of the 2,632,810 proof strikes sold to collectors in sealed 1970 proof sets, very few of which would have been spent so that they could be found in circulation. Even a lightly circulated coin like this one would still show a much sharper strike and mirror surfaces in the fields if it had been struck as a proof. I don't have images of a 1970-S proof cent, but here are images of a 1975-S showing these same characteristics: From what I can see in your photos, the mintmark is not doubled. Edited June 28 by Sandon correct "high 7" to "low 7" GoldFinger1969 and Henri Charriere 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nessa4va Posted June 28 Author Share Posted June 28 So...is this a Large or Small date? And the mint mark is thick but not a double die? Sandon 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandon Posted June 28 Share Posted June 28 (edited) On 6/27/2024 at 10:00 PM, Sandon said: This is a "large date" or "high [should have been low] 7". On 6/27/2024 at 10:00 PM, Sandon said: From what I can see in your photos, the mintmark is not doubled. I'm not sure why these answers were unclear you to you, except that a better term for a "doubled" mintmark from this era would be a "repunched" mintmark. Prior to the early 1990s, the U.S. Mint individually punched the mintmark into each working die, so if the punch was moved slightly between blows, a secondary image would appear, referred to as a "repunched" mintmark or "RPM". Normal mintmarks may vary in position, depth (thickness), and shape. Your photos are inadequate for me to determine for sure whether the mintmark on your coin was repunched, although it doesn't appear to be. NGC VarietyPlus lists one significant repunched mintmark variety for 1970-S large date cents, known as VP-002 or CONECA RPM-1. See Lincoln Cents, Memorial Reverse (1959-2008) | VarietyPlus® | NGC (ngccoin.com). This variety looks like this: There could be other, less significant RPMs for this date listed on such sites as varietyvista.com. Edited June 28 by Sandon correction GoldFinger1969 and powermad5000 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nessa4va Posted June 28 Author Share Posted June 28 Thank you for your reply. I did apologize for my photos not being the best earlier. GoldFinger1969 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nessa4va Posted June 28 Author Share Posted June 28 No need to be rude. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nessa4va Posted June 28 Author Share Posted June 28 I AM TRYING TO LEARN. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Popular Post Sandon Posted June 28 Popular Post Share Posted June 28 (edited) I don't know how my responses, which took me a great deal of time to prepare, could reasonably be construed as "rude". I happen to have over 50 years of experience with U.S. coins and am trying to share what I know with new collectors without compensation. Even though you previously asked how to tell the difference between 1970-S "large" and "small" date cents, and I provided you with an explanation and photos of the two varieties, you asked the same question about another 1970-S cent. I began my answer with "this is a 'large date' or 'high [should have been low] 7'". How much clearer could I have made it? Your frustration may stem from your attempting to understand advanced topics such as doubled dies and other die varieties and mint errors without having knowledge of more basic areas such as the history of U.S. coinage, types, dates and mints of U.S. coins, grading, and how coins are made. Please see the following topics to locate reliable print and online resources from which you may obtain such knowledge: Edited June 28 by Sandon correction ldhair, powermad5000, GoldFinger1969 and 1 other 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Sandon Posted June 28 Share Posted June 28 Actually, I did make a mistake in my response, probably because it was late at night. The "large date", which is the coin posted on this topic, is also known as the "low 7", not the "high 7". The "small date" is the "high" or "level" 7. I am editing this to correct. Henri Charriere and powermad5000 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nessa4va Posted Friday at 09:45 PM Author Share Posted Friday at 09:45 PM I would like to apologize to you sincerely! I'm new to the whole coin thing and I have had some really RUDE people comment on my posts before on other avenues. Please accept my apology. 😁 I do appreciate your knowledge and experience!!! I just want to learn more. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
VKurtB Posted Saturday at 07:58 PM Share Posted Saturday at 07:58 PM (edited) Truthfully, I write off as irredeemable anyone who complains about somebody being rude. Put on some big boy pants, and maybe a helmet. Edited Saturday at 07:58 PM by VKurtB Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
powermad5000 Posted Sunday at 07:35 PM Share Posted Sunday at 07:35 PM On 6/28/2024 at 4:45 PM, Nessa4va said: I would like to apologize to you sincerely! I'm new to the whole coin thing and I have had some really RUDE people comment on my posts before on other avenues. Please accept my apology. 😁 I do appreciate your knowledge and experience!!! I just want to learn more. You have surely come to the right place to learn more. This is a haven for the truth. That said, when you post here, you are in contact with some of the top people in the hobby. I would say there is a combined amount of years of those here who have been active in the hobby well in excess of 200 years combined if not over 300. Some here have written books and others are active in the top respected numismatic avenues. One thing to note, you are posting to a bunch of volunteers who live all over the country, differ greatly in age, and all have their own unique disposition and communication skills. Some may seem "stuffy", others curt, and still others, "dry" with everything in between. If you are easily offended by people, you will have a rough ride here. But if you know coming in that you need to "keep a thick skin", you should be fine. And no matter what, you will get the real deal here. Henri Charriere 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Blackmon0803 Posted Sunday at 07:52 PM Share Posted Sunday at 07:52 PM On 6/27/2024 at 11:55 PM, Sandon said: I don't know how my responses, which took me a great deal of time to prepare, could reasonably be construed as "rude". I happen to have over 50 years of experience with U.S. coins and am trying to share what I know with new collectors without compensation. Even though you previously asked how to tell the difference between 1970-S "large" and "small" date cents, and I provided you with an explanation and photos of the two varieties, you asked the same question about another 1970-S cent. I began my answer with "this is a 'large date' or 'high [should have been low] 7'". How much clearer could I have made it? Your frustration may stem from your attempting to understand advanced topics such as doubled dies and other die varieties and mint errors without having knowledge of more basic areas such as the history of U.S. coinage, types, dates and mints of U.S. coins, grading, and how coins are made. Please see the following topics to locate reliable print and online resources from which you may obtain such knowledge: I will say that I had to really step back and read the literature you guys provided and realized that I thought I had 100 doubled die varieties. I have a total of 2. I have a 1995 and a I believe a 1972. The reminder of these "double dies and error coin varieties for that matter" could have been weeded out by simply doing my homework. When you realize that so many things have to be PMD and not error varieties then you can look at most coins a few seconds and tell they are not worth the trouble. I am grateful for the responses. I feel if new collectors like me listen to what is provided then we end up with a solid collection Henri Charriere and powermad5000 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
powermad5000 Posted Sunday at 08:15 PM Share Posted Sunday at 08:15 PM (edited) On 6/30/2024 at 2:52 PM, Blackmon0803 said: I feel if new collectors like me listen to what is provided then we end up with a solid collection Feel free to repeat this to others as much as is necessary. Key word : listen Edited Sunday at 08:15 PM by powermad5000 Nessa4va and Henri Charriere 1 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Nessa4va Posted Monday at 10:13 PM Author Share Posted Monday at 10:13 PM On 6/30/2024 at 3:35 PM, powermad5000 said: You have surely come to the right place to learn more. This is a haven for the truth. That said, when you post here, you are in contact with some of the top people in the hobby. I would say there is a combined amount of years of those here who have been active in the hobby well in excess of 200 years combined if not over 300. Some here have written books and others are active in the top respected numismatic avenues. One thing to note, you are posting to a bunch of volunteers who live all over the country, differ greatly in age, and all have their own unique disposition and communication skills. Some may seem "stuffy", others curt, and still others, "dry" with everything in between. If you are easily offended by people, you will have a rough ride here. But if you know coming in that you need to "keep a thick skin", you should be fine. And no matter what, you will get the real deal here. Thank you for your advice, I really appreciate it!😁 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...