What elements should I look for when starting a Buffalo nickel collection?

[cpm9ball]

I've only been here for several weeks, and I enjoy reading many of the posts. I can tell that many of you are very proud of your collections and acquisitions. It is especially gratifying to be able to view some of your "treasures".

 

I've become particularly fascinated with the Buffalo nickel, and have decided to start a collection. Because I do lack the experience to be able to recognize important elements, I'm going to try to concentrate on AU grades, first. At least, then, if I make a mistake it may not cost me too much.

 

Now, my questions for Hoot and all the other nickel gurus are:

 

1) Is it prudent for someone "short on experience" to start from scratch in that grade range?

 

2) Are there any key design elements that I should look for in that range?

 

3) Would you mind posting pictures to illustrate some of those elements?

 

I realize that some of your viewpoints may vary from the objective (wear and strike) to the subjective (toning and lustre) or from a collector's point of view (eye-appeal) to a dealer's point of view (profitability). However, I would really appreciate comments from any and all.

 

I've been playing pool for nearly 50 years, and I am very, very good at it. There are many shots that I consider routine, but to a novice, drawing the cue ball the length of the table or pocketing a 3-rail bank shot is cause for much celebration. My point is, no matter how insignificant you might think your comments may be, they will all be very important to me.

 

Chris

[RGT]

I decided to collect buffalo nickels too, about two years ago. The first thing I did was buy David Lang's Complete Guide to Buffalo Nickels. I read through the book carfully and learned a lot. One of the things I learned was that I didn't want to collect buffalo nickels.

 

I still love the design and enjoy looking at the coins, but I didn't want to spend the time it would take to get to know the series. Maybe some day I'll have the patience to learn all the strike issues and such, but for now I just pick up one occasionally when I see one I like and can afford.

 

So, I would recomend you get the book and learn about the series before spending too much, but that can be said for any series.

[James_OldeTowne]

In my opinion, I wouldn't recommend AU, since there's too much argument between coins that are liners, and whether they're "weakly struck", etc. You'll likely end up paying a premium for coins that don't deserve a premium, because they are actually sliders.

 

Believe it or not, I've found the ideal grade to be just "Fine". I haven't imaged my set in a while, but I'll try and do that soon. The Buffalo nickel is the only US coin I know of that actually looks better in middle grade than it does in high grade, because the rustic texture that was given them by intent looks wonderful after it's been in circulation a while.

 

I got another member in my coin club (JayWalker across the street) started down the path of collecting "Fines", and he's been enjoying the heck out of it. I strive for coins that have 2/3 of a horn showing, since there's also a steep price jump for key dates with a full horn (VF+). Great topic for a thread!

 

James

[Hoot]

Hi Chris - RGT's advice about buying Lange's book is excellent. It's a great place to start.

 

I want to give you the long answer, but that may have to wait for another time. The short answers to your questions are:

 

1) Is it prudent for someone "short on experience" to start from scratch in that grade range?

 

There's nothing wrong with starting to collect buffalo nickels in any grade range, as long as you're prepared to be patient, prepared to make mistakes, and prepared to get to know the series by each and every date and Mint mark combination. If you are wanting to buy while gaining experience, then buy the cheap AU pieces first (e.g., 1935-38) and examine them quite carefully. You must have the right lighting conditions to detect some AU58 coins (as not MS) and to look carefully at each of the design elements and how they may be affected by conditions of handling in one form or another. Nickel can be tricky to detect small breaks in luster that are key features of the high AU range.

 

Gathering this experience and feeling confident with it will be of key importance.

 

If you wish to acquire some of the keys/semi-keys in AU (e.g., 21-S, 24-S, 25-S, 26-S) before you are VERY confident about buying raw coins, then you should buy them graded and crack them. I'd suggest taking your sweet time about those and wait for pieces that will blow you over for their detail and beauty. They will be expensive.

 

I have an AU collection that I've been working on casually for 5 years. It's about 40% complete. Maybe in my lifetime...

 

2) Are there any key design elements that I should look for in that range?

 

Rub on the high points of the Indian's hair (including braid), the date, the rim, the buffalo's head, the mane across the shoulder, the hip and tail.

 

In the AU grades, you can pick up coins with essentailly all of the detail present, just some breaks in luster.

 

3) Would you mind posting pictures to illustrate some of those elements?

 

jom has some great illustrations - photos where he has circled device elements that are key to look at. We can hope he'll read this and post them.

 

Hoot

[TomB]

I can't stress enough to buy David Lange's book and to read it, read it and read it again. You should also be prepared to look at thousands of Buffs if you think you are still going to tackle the set.

 

Personally, I enjoy F12 through EF40 coins the most in this series as the higher grade AU coins often look dull while the lower grade G and VF coins can be lacking too much design. Nice, dirty mid-grade coins are easier on the pocket, too.

[Count_Erfit]

Count me with the F-VF crowd. AU is a ....tricky..... grade.

 

My complete set averages VF. The overdate 18/7 is a "Net FR" AND acid treated.

 

I like the look of those semi worn coins. The design carries itself well in almost any grade F or above.

 

Good luck. You should have fun with this set.

[jom]

Here is the lame picture I made up some time ago. This shows the "typical" areas that are both weakly struck and the places you first see wear. Note the "w" and the "s" to designate the areas.

 

 

HTH

 

jom

[Hoot]

Schweet - that's the one!

[cpm9ball]

I want to thank everyone for their comments. It will be interesting to see which observations will be the most accurate a few years down the road. One thing is certain, I will definitely be looking for DWL's book. I am going to print this thread and keep it with my Buff album so that I can refer to it from time to time.

 

Best to all!

 

Chris