ASE Mint Roll - Which year?

[CoinFiend-migration]

Hello Everyone,

 

I have located a source for ASE's of every year in Mint Tubes (Sealed) for a great price. I just can't decide what year would be ideal for what I intend on doing with said coins.

 

I would get the 1996 Tube but it is 2000$ compared to 600$ plus I don't have more than $750 to invest. I want to submit them for grading. I was thinking maybe 1993 for the low mintage and can get a tube for $700.

 

If you could get any mint tube of regular bullion strikes for investment purposes (NGC Grading) which year would you get (besides 1996) Your point of view would be much appreciated. I just need help making a decision.

 

Thanks,

Don Baez

[coinman_23885]

Unless you make a bunch of MS70s, you are wasting your money on certification fees in my opinion. Buy these as bullion. I wouldn't pay a large premium over spot for any of them.

[david3142]

By buying these you are really just investing in silver. It is a HUGE waste of money to get them graded en masse. If you wanted to pick out the best and get it graded - ok, but the odds are still probably against you. MS70s are very hard to come by for the 1990s ASE and lower grades don't carry much of a premium.

 

What is your goal with these coins (and with the $750) ?

[cpm9ball]

First, welcome to the neighborhood, Don!

 

The fact that the tubes are sealed means nothing. In all likelihood, the coins for each year were submitted in bulk in the "Green Monster" boxes. Those that didn't meet the submitter's minimum grade were returned in the tubes that were used by the Mint. It is very unlikely that you will find any high grades in any of the tubes.

 

FWIW, if I were buying these tubes, I would try to get the cheapest ones possible and hold onto them hoping that the price of silver would rise. Of course, that could be years and years down the road, or it may be never.

 

Chris

[RWB]

What is your purpose?

 

If it is to waste as much money as possible, then having American Silver Eagles graded is an effective choice.

 

Buy for billion - especially if you imagine you are "investing."

[bochiman]

Buy them for silver content.

 

If you wanted to gamble your money past that point, look and see what pops are for the grades, and look and see what they are going for on ebay.

 

Pops really got higher in the high grades in the last 5-8 years but before that, the 70s weren't as many. There are a few reasons for that, imho. I doubt that you will get a roll and pop a lot of 70s.

 

So, factor in grading fees, shipping, etc, and the cost of the roll. Prescreen if you do it.

 

Then factor in potential ROI (subtract selling costs now as well). See if it is worth your time.

 

I think, after you do the above, or even start down that path, you will start questioning if it is worth it

[asdfgh]

If you do decide to get some and get them graded, check them out first. If the coin has even one small nick on it, do not send it in. The problem with this is, that only 69,70 are good enough to sell. If you get a 68 or 67 you might as well put them back into rolls. I once sent in 10 that I thought were perfect. I got 9-69's and one 68. Upon further examination I could see a fine scratch when turned to the light on the 68. Overall the coins were worth what I paid plus the grading, but just barely.

[BAJJERFAN]

Well, the smart approach would be to check the PCGS pop reports, Some years they graded very few or no 70s because of the spotting and grade guarantee. Pick a year or years where they had the least amount of 70s. If you submit 5 rolls you could get in on the bulk submission tier and not hurt yourself THAT bad. Might be a waste, but hey if you wanna make an omelet you gotta break some eggs.

[delta]

Hi Don, As indicated by the others who replied, certainly do not submit for grading without first scrutinizing. It's commonplace for all the coins in any one tube or even entire monster box to have similar serious contact marks, especially with ASEs from the earlier years.

[mackbrass]

Today was my first time buying a tube outside of the years 2013-2015. Our local coin shop had a few rolls from the mid to late 80's so i picked up a tube of 88 and 89 ASE's for 569 and 510 respectively. I have no intention on having them graded as those years have a very low ms70 pop so the chances are low any would come back as a 70. Since there is really no such thing as a sealed tube or roll, i would venture to bet that most tubes that exist have been already searched especially if they come from a dealer or another collector. When i picked my two tubes today, i searched through all first and took what my naked eye thought were the best. You would be better off just buying the current year for the bullion aspect or start a ms69 slabbed set. If you start with putting together a set you will find that most coins will run about 30 dollars. If you think about the cost of a already slabbed ms69 coin thats a great deal as you are buying someone else's work. For 700 bucks you can pick up about 20 slabbed ms69 ASE's. I think i put my complete set together for under 1k from 86 -15.

[bochiman]

Enjoy them.

 

However, just a tad of caution when paying substantially more for older rolls......find out what the dealers would pay for them. Not what they want to sell them for, but what they would give you if/when you were to try to sell them.

 

You may decide that's something you don't want to get into....

 

(some will pay the same as what the recent years are...and some may pay a little more....best to find out what your potential purchasers in the future may pay before you go into it too much)