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1913, 1915, 1938 Buffalo Nickels

Started by thabeast,

15 posts in this topic

wdrob

wdrob

Posted
Posted

 

 

Sorry I could not guess but I really know nothing about the years and strike on those. I need to try and learn one day.

 

I can guess on this Buffalo --- but it is a lot easier. :/

 

 

2015_Gold_1_oz_Buffalo_BU.jpg

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

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BillJones

BillJones

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I have never collected Buffalo Nickels by date and mint mark, but I have collected them as type coins. I also have The Official Red Book guide on the Buffalo and Jefferson Nickels. Based upon the information from that source and my experience here are my observations.

 

The strike on your 1913 Type I nickel is little sub par for this issue. This coin is often found sharp and well struck, and this piece is a little "mushy" for this issue. It is quite nice from the preservation standpoint with what appears to be almost no marks. I won't comment on the toning because it might be properly represented in the photo.

 

I now have a Matte Proof Type I Buffalo Nickel in my collection, but here is a photo of the Mint State piece that used to be my primary coin for this type. You will note that the devices are a bit better defined. This piece has been graded MS-63, I think that it is high end for that grade.

 

1913NickelO-1.jpg1913NickelR-1.jpg

 

The 1915 nickel is well struck and very attractive. I think that it is a very nice coin and a good addition to your collection. According to my nickel book, this issue tends to come nice, and this piece is no exception.

 

Quite a few 1938-D Buffalo Nickels were set aside because they were the last of their kind. There are quite a few of them in high grade, even rolls in fact, but this coin is very popular with collectors. You example is a nice presentation of this wonderfully American design.

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thabeast

thabeast

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I have never collected Buffalo Nickels by date and mint mark, but I have collected them as type coins. I also have The Official Red Book guide on the Buffalo and Jefferson Nickels. Based upon the information from that source and my experience here are my observations.

 

The strike on your 1913 Type I nickel is little sub par for this issue. This coin is often found sharp and well struck, and this piece is a little "mushy" for this issue. It is quite nice from the preservation standpoint with what appears to be almost no marks. I won't comment on the toning because it might be properly represented in the photo.

 

I now have a Matte Proof Type I Buffalo Nickel in my collection, but here is a photo of the Mint State piece that used to be my primary coin for this type. You will note that the devices are a bit better defined. This piece has been graded MS-63, I think that it is high end for that grade.

 

1913NickelO-1.jpg1913NickelR-1.jpg

 

The 1915 nickel is well struck and very attractive. I think that it is a very nice coin and a good addition to your collection. According to my nickel book, this issue tends to come nice, and this piece is no exception.

 

Quite a few 1938-D Buffalo Nickels were set aside because they were the last of their kind. There are quite a few of them in high grade, even rolls in fact, but this coin is very popular with collectors. You example is a nice presentation of this wonderfully American design.

 

Thank you for your observations and comments. I don't normally look to pickup Buffalo's, but my local shop had someone sell off their book and I ended up snagging a few.

 

I'm having the darnedest time grading these buggers, lol. I believe the 1913 will pull an MS grade, but can't really put the number on it. Since I collect copper and am familiar with that surface, I'm having trouble with the surface of the 1915 and 1938-D. I don't know if they took a bath or if this is how some Buffalo's end up toning. There is luster there, but it's not quite right in my book.

 

Any additional input is much appreciated. Thanks again.

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BillJones

BillJones

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Buffalo Nickels are made of 75% copper and 25% nickel. As such they can react to the elements and acquire toning although most Mint State examples are the white color found on new pieces.

 

I have seen the pale blue color that is on the 1915 before, and browns and other colors you see on the other two pieces are also natural.

 

The color that is NEVER good on copper-nickel coins is black. Many collectors don't realize this but copper nickel coins can corrode, and when they do they usually turn coal black, sometimes a very dark scaly brown. This advice about corrosion applies to Nickel Three Cent Pieces, all copper-nickel five cent pieces and the Flying Eagle and Copper Nickel cents that were issued before and during the Civil War.

 

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thabeast

thabeast

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I'm not as good as wdrob, but his tutorial that he sent me has got me editing my coin photos better. Here is one I just did after watching his video.

 

sample%2Bcoin%2Bdrop%2Bshadow%2Bcopy.jpg

 

Now I just need to get better at taking a sharper photo and I'll be set!

 

Thanks again.

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wdrob

wdrob

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Hey you got it!

 

Great -- I was hoping that the microphone being garbage would not ruin it all together and you could understand what I was doing. (thumbs u

 

 

 

 

 

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jom

jom

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The 1913 and the 1938-D are probably MS 63 or so.

 

The 1915 is AU at best. Look at the Buffalo's hip. There is a flatness there that shows the beginnings of circulation. In fact, it's probably AU50 roughly.

 

jom

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thabeast

thabeast

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I pretty much agree with you jom. I think the 1913 is MS, just not sure on the number. With my limited knowledge, I can see 62 on the low side and 65 on the high side.

 

The 1915 is AU50 at worst and 53 at best.

 

I've had the most trouble trying to grade this 1938-D. From what you see, you think it's MS? These coins are just so hard for me to grade.

 

Thanks for any additional feedback.

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