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1860-P SLQ

17 posts in this topic

 

Yeah I probably should have waited until I could get my camera on it since those are so small. I will update in a few days once I have taken High Res pictures.

 

 

 

 

 

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Based on the pics, I say AU53-55. Total guess because pics do not show high points of Obverse very well. I also say nice toning. Sweet coin.

 

Carl

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Thanks Carl. I hope it is very photogenic since that was the only reason I bought it. We will see in a few days how it ends up looking under better conditions.

 

 

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dipped and re-toned naturally.

 

 

Bill I agree and think you are 100% accurate on that.

 

I had a half dime that was similar. I wish I had never got rid of it. Was not slabbed and I doubt it would have graded as a XF45, but I just love that toning look.

 

 

 

 

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This 1860-P Quarter arrived today and I was very happy with the amount of detail and how the color was much stronger than represented in the listing photos. Needless to say I was not going to waste anytime getting the coin under the camera lens. There are quite a few noticeable and unavoidable scratches on the NGC slab that show on the obverse. The reverse did not seem to have an equal amount of mistreatment.

 

This obverse shot was taken at f/11, ISO 100, and at a shutter speed of 1/80 sec. -- and the reverse f/4.5, ISO 100, and a shutter speed of 1/320 sec. Both are using an 18% grey card to set white balance and using the Auto Scene Mode on the Canon T3i Lighting was provided by 3 Jansjo led lights at 9, 12, and 3.

 

*** Edited To Add: I forgot to tell the grade. AU50 is what the NGC sticker says on it.

 

1860_Quarter_Dollar_Seated_Liberty_NGC_AU50.jpg

 

 

 

 

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The reverse looks like an AU-58 if there is a fair amount of luster around the eagle, but the obverse has quite a bit of wear and only falls in the AU-50 bin. The obverse is by far the more important side when it comes to assigning a grade.

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Bill, that is the way I was rationalizing it. The luster is there for a AU58 but that obverse just makes you wonder why so much wear on the obverse and not the reverse.

 

I would do some research and find out if there was anything particular about the manner it was struck in Philadelphia with the nation on the verge of Civil War, but it would not matter since I just bought the thing cause it fits my taste, even if it is a once dipped and retoned piece. :grin:

 

 

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Thank you.

 

I use GIMP which is a free and open source graphics program that can do just about anything PhotoShop or various other expensive commercial software can do, but cheaper. :grin:

 

Download a copy and give it a whirl. It has a pretty steep learning curve but in my opinion they all do unless you are a skilled graphics designer and know what you are wanting to do in the first place. I am not, and my creativity level rivals that only of a Cow Dung Beetle. :/

 

 

 

 

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Thanks GS.

 

Kenny that sounds about right.

 

I seem to have come to that point in my limited amount of time in this hobby to where I don't seem to care about the grade as much as I do a very nice strike or a peripheral toned type of coin.

 

I will add though, that obverse of this coins holder is rather rough. All those comet trails you see on the obverse - scratches!! I could not minimize all of them by moving the lights around. If I took a picture with one light and head on you would think someone took sandpaper to the front of the holder, but I believe you are seeing the grade right with or without scratches.

 

 

 

 

 

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