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For the Ike Guys: Varieties...

Started by TonerGuy,

36 posts in this topic

TonerGuy

TonerGuy

Posted
Posted

I have 22 Ike varieties - 72-P Type 2 and 71-D Friendly Eagle and 20 various Peg Legs - 72-D, 74-D,76-D and 78-D. Mostly in high AU to low MS grades 58-63/4

 

Im trying to decide to if I should send these in for grading. Are these worth any money and at what grade level ?

 

The prices on EBay are all over the place and they arent that close to the prices listed on the Ike Group website.

 

I was thinking I was just going to sell all 22 as one lot on EBay. The cheapest I could get them graded and attributed would be $17 per coin at ANACs.

 

Thanks in advance.

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19Lyds

19Lyds

Posted
Posted

ANACS sound like a good plan provided the coins are "MS".

 

An AU coin would simply be a waste of grading fees.

 

The Type 2 would be good for grading at any grade provided it is not damaged. In that case, its best value is as a raw coin.

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yonico

yonico

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Posted
Did you know that since all quarters, halves, and dollars minted in 75 & 76 were dual dated, you can't tell which ones were minted in 75 and which were minted in 76. EXCEPT the Proof clad Ikes. All minted in 75 were Type I and all minted in 76 were Type II. Cool huh?

 

I don't think that is correct.

 

The design change was made in the middle of 1975. So in 1975, the mint made both type I and type II, and in 1976 - type II only.

 

All dollars included in 1975 proof sets are Type I; all those included in 1976 proof sets are Type II.

 

So yes, you could say that all that were minted in 1976 were indeed type II, But no - not all that were minted in 1975 are type I.

 

 

 

Send in any T2's 63 or better to PCGS, the rest are better off raw.

 

Or NGC

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e1cnr

e1cnr

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Posted
EXCEPT the Proof clad Ikes. All minted in 75 were Type I and all minted in 76 were Type II. Cool huh?

 

 

 

All dollars included in 1975 proof sets are Type I; all those included in 1976 proof sets are Type II.

 

 

 

 

 

 

Same thing, no?

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RWB

RWB

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"I don't know of a single T2 '76 in a '75 set and I've looked at hundreds of these sets. "

 

But, since they are all "die marriages" there shouldn't be any "single" ones.... ;)

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physics-fan3.14

physics-fan3.14

Posted
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"I don't know of a single T2 '76 in a '75 set and I've looked at hundreds of these sets. "

 

But, since they are all "die marriages" there shouldn't be any "single" ones.... ;)

 

Hahaha. That was funnier than it should have been.

 

Seriously though, it is very interesting to be able to date the set based on the varieties in the set.

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RWB

RWB

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...if they are "dating" then they aren't a "marriage."

 

OK.....I've warped that about as far as it will go...now to build a boat.

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19Lyds

19Lyds

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Posted
They also changed the law to allow 1974 coins to continue to be struck until the Mint was prepared to strike the bicentennial coins. So some of your 1974 coins may have been produced in 1975.........MAILMAN
That's the 1st if heard of this.

 

Can you provide some justifying documentation?

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poppa501-migration

poppa501-migration

Posted
Posted
Did you know that since all quarters, halves, and dollars minted in 75 & 76 were dual dated, you can't tell which ones were minted in 75 and which were minted in 76. EXCEPT the Proof clad Ikes. All minted in 75 were Type I and all minted in 76 were Type II. Cool huh?

 

I don't think that is correct.

 

The design change was made in the middle of 1975. So in 1975, the mint made both type I and type II, and in 1976 - type II only.

 

All dollars included in 1975 proof sets are Type I; all those included in 1976 proof sets are Type II.

 

So yes, you could say that all that were minted in 1976 were indeed type II, But no - not all that were minted in 1975 are type I.

 

 

 

Send in any T2's 63 or better to PCGS, the rest are better off raw.

 

Or NGC

This is what I read in CoinAge Magazine recently.

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19Lyds

19Lyds

Posted
Posted
They also changed the law to allow 1974 coins to continue to be struck until the Mint was prepared to strike the bicentennial coins. So some of your 1974 coins may have been produced in 1975.........MAILMAN
Still waiting to find out where you got this information.
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TonerGuy

TonerGuy

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Since the thread was resurrected...

 

My third $1000 bag produced some nice varieties as well...

 

Found an MS64/65 Friendly Eagle -- "Cuddly TED" variety...

 

According to the Ike Group's Price Guide this might be a $200 to $500 coin.

 

And I might have found a 71-D RPM - which in AU58 is a $350 coin. Im going to have ANACs do the research on that one.

 

And several more Peg Legs and Talon Heads. I think I might send these off to ANACs and hold them in case the variety market for Ikes heats up in the future.

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19Lyds

19Lyds

Posted
Posted
Since the thread was resurrected...

 

My third $1000 bag produced some nice varieties as well...

 

Found an MS64/65 Friendly Eagle -- "Cuddly TED" variety...

 

According to the Ike Group's Price Guide this might be a $200 to $500 coin.

 

And I might have found a 71-D RPM - which in AU58 is a $350 coin. Im going to have ANACs do the research on that one.

 

And several more Peg Legs and Talon Heads. I think I might send these off to ANACs and hold them in case the variety market for Ikes heats up in the future.

I can only WISH that the 71-D RPM was a $350 coin in AU58.

 

My "MS" coin was up on ebay all last week with a $200 starting bid with not a single bid.

 

They (i.e. the IKE Group) need to adjust their numbers a bit.

 

BTW, my second bag yielded nothing of note and went back on the same day it arrived.

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TonerGuy

TonerGuy

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I can only WISH that the 71-D RPM was a $350 coin in AU58.

 

My "MS" coin was up on ebay all last week with a $200 starting bid with not a single bid.

 

They (i.e. the IKE Group) need to adjust their numbers a bit.

 

BTW, my second bag yielded nothing of note and went back on the same day it arrived.

 

Yeah thats what I figured. I couldnt believe it when I saw it either. Maybe it makes their wives feel better to think all that staring their husbands do into a loupe equals money... lol.

 

Perhaps I will just leave them raw and see if the Millennials drive up the price and the interest in Ikes over the next ten years or so.

 

I can see Ike varieties getting hot at some point now that Morgan and Peace VAMS have gotten so pricey.

 

Sorry to hear about the bag. That sucks.

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19Lyds

19Lyds

Posted
Posted
Sounds a lot like the "Fantasy Coin Price League."
Well, they're just not that easy to find Roger.

 

But then, folks have to look.

 

Or should I say L@@K?

 

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TonerGuy

TonerGuy

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Sounds a lot like the "Fantasy Coin Price League."
Well, they're just not that easy to find Roger.

 

But then, folks have to look.

 

Or should I say L@@K?

 

 

And you really need a degree in RPM for determine on Ikes. I spent 30 minutes going back and forth between my coin and the website photos and Im still not sure. lol

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coinman_23885

coinman_23885

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Sounds a lot like the "Fantasy Coin Price League."
Well, they're just not that easy to find Roger.

 

But then, folks have to look.

 

Or should I say L@@K?

 

 

And you really need a degree in RPM for determine on Ikes. I spent 30 minutes going back and forth between my coin and the website photos and Im still not sure. lol

 

Try buying a USB coin microscope and take images. Then place the images side by side on your computer screen. It makes it easier than looking back and forth between the coin and the screen.

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TonerGuy

TonerGuy

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Try buying a USB coin microscope and take images. Then place the images side by side on your computer screen. It makes it easier than looking back and forth between the coin and the screen.

 

Yes I am going to have to do that. My eyes are no longer strong enough to see the minute differences.

 

Any recommendations ?

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19Lyds

19Lyds

Posted
Posted
Sounds a lot like the "Fantasy Coin Price League."
Well, they're just not that easy to find Roger.

 

But then, folks have to look.

 

Or should I say L@@K?

 

 

And you really need a degree in RPM for determine on Ikes. I spent 30 minutes going back and forth between my coin and the website photos and Im still not sure. lol

The honest truth is that I really only check for the 71-D as the others, I find difficult to identify.
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