Newb Dipping Question...

[TonerGuy]

I dont usually conserve/dip coins but the 1939 Lincoln PF or MS I posted a couple of weeks ago arrived - finally. It is definitely a proof. The surfaces are complete watery mirrors and the coin is beautifully toned. She's a keeper but...

 

She has some organic material on the obverse - PVC - I think but its not a slimy film, its just two small greenish dots with a circle of discoloration around them. And on the reverse it as a piece of something. Not sure what but it looks like it will just fall off if I soak the coin.

 

So here's the question - is it acetone that I use for this ? I obviously dont want to harm the toning in anyway...

 

Thanks in advance.

[yonico]

Make sure it is 100% pure acetone

 

soak for 15 minutes and then rinse properly and dry on a soft towel.

 

All the "organic" residue should go, and the toning (from my experience, at least) should not be affected.

 

Good luck! Take some nice before and after pics and post here please!

[Curry]

Make sure it is 100% pure acetone

 

soak for 15 minutes and then rinse properly and dry on a soft towel.

 

All the "organic" residue should go, and the toning (from my experience, at least) should not be affected.

 

Good luck! Take some nice before and after pics and post here please!

And we pray for the best for TonerGuy

[FishyOne]

...So here's the question - is it acetone that I use for this ? I obviously dont want to harm the toning in anyway...

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Yes, it is acetone. As noted above use 100% pure acetone, some guys even keep a special laboratory grade on-hand but I use regular off the shelf stuff and have not had a problem.

[Curry]

...So here's the question - is it acetone that I use for this ? I obviously dont want to harm the toning in anyway...

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Yes, it is acetone. As noted above use 100% pure acetone, some guys even keep a special laboratory grade on-hand but I use regular off the shelf stuff and have not had a problem.

Whats the difference between labratory grade and store shelf grade? Concentration?

[yonico]

...So here's the question - is it acetone that I use for this ? I obviously dont want to harm the toning in anyway...

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Yes, it is acetone. As noted above use 100% pure acetone, some guys even keep a special laboratory grade on-hand but I use regular off the shelf stuff and have not had a problem.

 

i usually buy a generic $2.99 bottle at a pharmacy and it works just fine. never tried any of the fancy stuff though

[coinman_23885]

...So here's the question - is it acetone that I use for this ? I obviously dont want to harm the toning in anyway...

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Yes, it is acetone. As noted above use 100% pure acetone, some guys even keep a special laboratory grade on-hand but I use regular off the shelf stuff and have not had a problem.

Whats the difference between labratory grade and store shelf grade? Concentration?

 

Potential impurities.

[Curry]

...So here's the question - is it acetone that I use for this ? I obviously dont want to harm the toning in anyway...

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Yes, it is acetone. As noted above use 100% pure acetone, some guys even keep a special laboratory grade on-hand but I use regular off the shelf stuff and have not had a problem.

Whats the difference between labratory grade and store shelf grade? Concentration?

 

Potential impurities.

+1

[Raisethis2]

Nail polish remover is also Acetone but has a tint in it and is prone to have impurities.Use the product labeled "Pure Acetone", be sure to rinse with tap water, distilled water if available then dry with canned air.

 

Never rub!!

[BAJJERFAN]

...So here's the question - is it acetone that I use for this ? I obviously dont want to harm the toning in anyway...

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Yes, it is acetone. As noted above use 100% pure acetone, some guys even keep a special laboratory grade on-hand but I use regular off the shelf stuff and have not had a problem.

 

i usually buy a generic $2.99 bottle at a pharmacy and it works just fine. never tried any of the fancy stuff though

 

Is it labeled U.S.P.?

[Mr.Mcknowitall]

Nail polish remover is also Acetone but has a tint in it and is prone to have impurities.Use the product labeled "Pure Acetone", be sure to rinse with tap water, distilled water if available then dry with canned air.

 

Never rub!!

 

Do you know what "canned air" is?

 

I commented in another Thread that I cringe when I see it used on a coin.

 

Try some long and short term experiments on various coins.

 

It is Difluoroethane.

[TonerGuy]

Thanks everyone. It mostly worked.

 

Got rid of one of the spots completely and the item on the reverse. There was one spot on the obverse that was green and had a carbon circle around it. So the green spot is gone but the carbon is still there.

 

[yonico]

...So here's the question - is it acetone that I use for this ? I obviously dont want to harm the toning in anyway...

 

Thanks in advance.

 

Yes, it is acetone. As noted above use 100% pure acetone, some guys even keep a special laboratory grade on-hand but I use regular off the shelf stuff and have not had a problem.

 

i usually buy a generic $2.99 bottle at a pharmacy and it works just fine. never tried any of the fancy stuff though

 

Is it labeled U.S.P.?

 

Yep. USP-NF grade

[yonico]

Nail polish remover is also Acetone but has a tint in it and is prone to have impurities.Use the product labeled "Pure Acetone", be sure to rinse with tap water, distilled water if available then dry with canned air.

 

Never rub!!

 

Do you know what "canned air" is?

 

I commented in another Thread that I cringe when I see it used on a coin.

 

Try some long and short term experiments on various coins.

 

It is Difluoroethane.

 

I also don't like it

 

I use a very soft towel to dry it (lay it on the towel and lightly dab it with it, never rubbing)

[Curry]

Nail polish remover is also Acetone but has a tint in it and is prone to have impurities.Use the product labeled "Pure Acetone", be sure to rinse with tap water, distilled water if available then dry with canned air.

 

Never rub!!

That moment when you realize your rubbing screws

It up

[Conder101]

I use a very soft towel to dry it

I use a final acetone rinse to dry it. Water dissolves completely and practically instantly into the acetone widely disbursing the water molecules. Then the acetone evaporates away in just a few seconds carrying all the water with it. Dries in seconds, no chance at water spotting, and since nothing solid touches the coin there is no chance of hairlining.

[James_OldeTowne]

I suggest you NOT dry your proof coin(s) with a "soft towel". Instead, use canned air to blow away any lingering moisture.

[Mr.Mcknowitall]

I suggest you NOT dry your proof coin(s) with a "soft towel". Instead, use canned air to blow away any lingering moisture.

 

I would suggest a person do a little checking on what canned air is.

[Kurtdog]

...So here's the question - is it acetone that I use for this ? I obviously dont want to harm the toning in anyway...

 

Thanks in advance.

Yes, it is acetone. As noted above use 100% pure acetone, some guys even keep a special laboratory grade on-hand but I use regular off the shelf stuff and have not had a problem.

Whats the difference between labratory grade and store shelf grade? Concentration?

Denatonium benzoate. Don't just trust the "100% pure acetone" label, read the ingredients label.

[Mr.Mcknowitall]

...So here's the question - is it acetone that I use for this ? I obviously dont want to harm the toning in anyway...

 

Thanks in advance.

Yes, it is acetone. As noted above use 100% pure acetone, some guys even keep a special laboratory grade on-hand but I use regular off the shelf stuff and have not had a problem.

Whats the difference between labratory grade and store shelf grade? Concentration?

Denatonium benzoate. Don't just trust the "100% pure acetone" label, read the ingredients label.

 

Especially the canned air label.

[coinman_23885]

I suggest you NOT dry your proof coin(s) with a "soft towel". Instead, use canned air to blow away any lingering moisture.

 

I would suggest a person do a little checking on what canned air is.

 

I agree. Although proper shaking reduces the odds that liquid would shoot out from the can onto the coin, it can and does happen. I would avoid canned air personally.

[$ilverHawk]

Nail polish remover is also Acetone but has a tint in it and is prone to have impurities.Use the product labeled "Pure Acetone", be sure to rinse with tap water, distilled water if available then dry with canned air.

 

Never rub!!

 

Do you know what "canned air" is?

 

I commented in another Thread that I cringe when I see it used on a coin.

 

Try some long and short term experiments on various coins.

 

It is Difluoroethane.

 

John,

 

Most "canned air" available on the retail market is 1, 1 Difluoroethane and Bitrex (Denatonium Benzoate) which is added as a bittering agent to dissuade the practice of "huffing".

 

I searched the available literature and could not find any references regarding chemical reactions between "canned air" and metals commonly found in coins.

 

Do you have any information concerning any reactions of "canned air" and coins of any type of metal?

 

"Canned air" is commonly used to clean dust from computer circuit boards. Circuit boards quite commonly contain miniscule amounts of silver, gold and copper. If it was that reactive, their would be wide spread failures from it's use.

 

Carl

[coinman_23885]

Nail polish remover is also Acetone but has a tint in it and is prone to have impurities.Use the product labeled "Pure Acetone", be sure to rinse with tap water, distilled water if available then dry with canned air.

 

Never rub!!

 

Do you know what "canned air" is?

 

I commented in another Thread that I cringe when I see it used on a coin.

 

Try some long and short term experiments on various coins.

 

It is Difluoroethane.

 

John,

 

Most "canned air" available on the retail market is 1, 1 Difluoroethane and Bitrex (Denatonium Benzoate) which is added as a bittering agent to dissuade the practice of "huffing".

 

I searched the available literature and could not find any references regarding chemical reactions between "canned air" and metals commonly found in coins.

 

Do you have any information concerning any reactions of "canned air" and coins of any type of metal?

 

"Canned air" is commonly used to clean dust from computer circuit boards. Circuit boards quite commonly contain miniscule amounts of silver, gold and copper. If it was that reactive, their would be wide spread failures from it's use.

 

Carl

 

I don't remember any specific reactions with coin metals and the alkyl halides specifically, but if organic chemistry taught me anything, it is that alkyl halides (halogenated hydrocarbons such as difluoroethane) are reactive. I could see the potential for side reactions with contaminants on the coin or even with the air. While oxidation of computer components might not have a catastrophic effect, I wouldn't risk my valuable coins on it even if the chances of a negative effect are minimal. Just my .

[Conder101]

I would probably worry more about the expansion of the compressed gases cooling the coin resulting in water from the air condensing on it. (In very tiny amounts of course, but in effect causing the very problem you are using the canned air to correct. Making the coin wet.)

[19Lyds]

Newb Dipping Question...

 

Newbies are never dipped..............just roasted!

[dimefreak]

As conder already stated there is no need for water or drying. Just use a fresh batch of acetone. There is nothing better that I know of to dry off coins than acetone.

[RWB]

RE: " Newb Dipping Question..."

 

Overall, I'm opposed to dipping, dunking, drenching, drowning or otherwise immersing newbs. They are usually quite clean to start with and too long a dip could dampen their enthusiasm, not to mention their clothes.

 

.....ahhhhh, now I see the parsing error on my part.....