Dilemma

[CSdot]

I am putting together a MS/PF level certified 7070 style type set. My strategy so far has been to buy the highest grade, best eye appeal, coin I can for each type. Let's say I have a dollar figure in mind that I am willing to spend, is it better to pick the highest grade, best eye appeal, coin I can for each type, or to sacrifice those criteria for a similarly priced rarer date coin?

 

I know people collect different series, so I'll give several examples where one date/mint mark vastly outnumbers all others. Assuming a set dollar figure you want to spend:

 

(1) is it better to buy a higher grade* 1875-S twenty cent piece, or a lower grade* twenty cent piece of another date?

 

(2) is it better to buy a higher grade* 1926 or 1932 $10 Indian, or a lower grade* $10 Indian of another date?

 

(3) is it better to buy a higher grade* 1859-O or 1860-O Seated Liberty Dollar, or a lower grade* Seated Liberty Dollar of another date?

 

(4) is it better to buy a higher grade* 1904 $20 Liberty, or a lower grade* $20 Liberty of another date?

 

I guess there are benefits to both strategies, but I am curious to hear your thoughts? Thanks.

 

 

* So this doesn't get derailed by people who like to overthink questions (you know who you are ), when I say higher grade vs. lower grade you can assume the coins are graded properly, and the higher grade coins have better luster, etc.

 

[delta]

It's a type set. Forget about including rarer dates, unless you happen to get one inexpensively by chance with the same criteria, just go for the highest possible grade with best eye appeal, exactly as you've been doing.

[MarkFeld]

Buy whatever the heck YOU like better. It is YOUR collection.

 

I have mentioned this in a number of other posts - "Do not be a slave to your collecting".

[Conder101]

Define what you mean by "better".

[coinsbygary]

I'm also putting together a 7070 Type Set. In the past I was only interested in filling slots. As I am getting nearer towards completion I am rethinking that goal to include pieces that have great eye appeal for the grade. I know I can't afford some of the early copper pieces in MS but I may be able to collect some nice looking VF's. After I fill my empty slots with nice coins I'll go back and see which ones I want to upgrade starting with the details graded pieces.

Gary

[jpcienkus]

I'm also putting together a graded Dansco 7070. I had to make similar decisions. For my collection, I came to the following conclussions:

 

- If I like the coin design, I will buy a key date, high grade coin

 

- If I don't care for the coin design, I'll buy a commond date in AU 55-58 or in XF depending on pricing.

[JIM F.]

Having completed a 7070 type set myself (non-gold) I merely concentrated on the highest "affordable" grade without rarity consideration. For a lot of the coins, I bought them in TPG holders and cracked them out and didn't really care if they were details/cleaned as long as I liked the coin -- at least I knew it was genuine. I saved the sticker inserts and attached them to the back of the album.

 

Good luck.

 

 

[CSdot]

Define what you mean by "better".

 

There it is. (thumbs u

 

* So this doesn't get derailed by people who like to overthink questions (you know who you are ).

[jom]

Each person is different. I try (often unsuccessfully) to make the coins be in "similar" grades so the set matches a bit. However, I always prefer some pretty color so most of the coins don't match that way. Nothing is perfect.

 

Is this "better"? Yeah, for ME. Do whateverthehell you want to do...it's your set!

 

jom

[Catbert]

My preference in building my basic type set (excluding moderns) is to focus on non-key date coins that have nice eye appeal (regardless of grade). I want to appreciate the design of each type and thus far that means AU and above.

 

I also want to take my time as suitable coins present themselves and as discretionary funds allow - I want to enjoy the journey. I cannot relate to those collectors who seem to be in a hurry to fill holes. The right coin may not present itself within a constricted timeframe. As for cost restrictions for each coin, I've found a great coin for $35 that is just fine holding membership along side one that costs nearly X100 that amount. It's really OK; after all, it is what satisfies me and I don't need to be bound by artificial rules.

 

Lastly, I am okay with defining the 7070 my way. If I don't like a coin design, I don't feel obligated to buy one.

 

Obviously, your mileage may vary, but I concur with others have stated - do what makes you happy!

[ldhair]

I would not put high grade coins, proof or MS in a Dansco.

[CSdot]

I would not put high grade coins, proof or MS in a Dansco.

 

Neither would I. As you can see from my signature line below, I have my high grade coins certified and in a registry set.

[physics-fan3.14]

It very largely depends on what you want.

 

Do you want a set of low/medium grade key date coins? Then buy that.

 

Do you want a set of high grade coins? Then buy that.

 

Do you want a set of extremely eye appealing coins without too much consideration for the grade? Then buy that.

 

When assembling a set, I personally prefer to match the coins (it makes for a better set, in my opinion). I wouldn't buy a high grade of one type and a low grade of another type - they just don't go together. But that's how I collect. You do whatever makes you happy.

[leeg]

Having completed a 7070 type set myself (non-gold) I merely concentrated on the highest "affordable" grade without rarity consideration. For a lot of the coins, I bought them in TPG holders and cracked them out and didn't really care if they were details/cleaned as long as I liked the coin -- at least I knew it was genuine. I saved the sticker inserts and attached them to the back of the album.

 

Good luck.

 

 

This is what I'm doing also.

 

A 7070 should be fun, do whatever you want to make it fun.

 

[JIM F.]

Having completed a 7070 type set myself (non-gold) I merely concentrated on the highest "affordable" grade without rarity consideration. For a lot of the coins, I bought them in TPG holders and cracked them out and didn't really care if they were details/cleaned as long as I liked the coin -- at least I knew it was genuine. I saved the sticker inserts and attached them to the back of the album.

 

Good luck.

 

 

This is what I'm doing also.

 

A 7070 should be fun, do whatever you want to make it fun.

 

 

Then when finished, you can find another fun set to work on! I moved on to PF CAM Franklins. When that was completed, I started a MPL set, but that's going to take awhile due to scarcity and price! It took me over 2 decades to complete the 7070 so I'm in no hurry!

 

Also, to help you complete your set, you might want to post what you are looking for in the money marketplace thread, or PM me since I have a few duplicates.

 

 

 

 

[BrokCoinCollector]

If you just want a nice set then go with the highest grade for your money. Now if your going for points on here then yes you should shoot for whatever will get you the most points for your buck.

[James_OldeTowne]

I am putting together a MS/PF level certified 7070 style type set. My strategy so far has been to buy the highest grade, best eye appeal, coin I can for each type. Let's say I have a dollar figure in mind that I am willing to spend, is it better to pick the highest grade, best eye appeal, coin I can for each type, or to sacrifice those criteria for a similarly priced rarer date coin?

 

I know people collect different series, so I'll give several examples where one date/mint mark vastly outnumbers all others. Assuming a set dollar figure you want to spend:

 

(1) is it better to buy a higher grade* 1875-S twenty cent piece, or a lower grade* twenty cent piece of another date?

 

(2) is it better to buy a higher grade* 1926 or 1932 $10 Indian, or a lower grade* $10 Indian of another date?

 

(3) is it better to buy a higher grade* 1859-O or 1860-O Seated Liberty Dollar, or a lower grade* Seated Liberty Dollar of another date?

 

(4) is it better to buy a higher grade* 1904 $20 Liberty, or a lower grade* $20 Liberty of another date?

 

I guess there are benefits to both strategies, but I am curious to hear your thoughts? Thanks.

This being a type set, my suggestion would be to target more common dates that are available in higher grade. The Seated dollar is a classic example - get one of the bag dates (59-O or 60-O) since they are actually attainable in UNC.