Franklin 1956 Type I and Type II

[ArmyBud]

Ok....a newby here....How can I be sure of the type of 1956 Franklin? I have read but still can't tell the difference.

[coinman_23885]

 

Even though this is a Coinfacts image, I did access this in the public domain and have linked to the aforesaid source.

[Deerefan8420]

Which is the more desired variety? Does one variety carry a stronger premium than the other in choice grades, or are they about the same? I'm starting to grow fond of the Franklin Half series.

[ArmyBud]

Excellent!! I can now tell the difference......I had read about the 3 and 4 feathers but really didn't get it....I appreciate the help. According to the NGC price guide the Type I is rarer?

 

Bud

[coinsandmedals]

The type I is trades for a considerable premium, I have sold several raw in the $100-$150.00 range. As compared to a type II which trades for a little above silver in most raw grades.

[ArmyBud]

Ok....I'm really going to let you see how new I am: I tried to attach a photo to this post but can't.....some instruction would be appreciated.

Bud

[coinsandmedals]

Don’t feel bad I had the same problem when I first joined the boards and tried to add a picture. I was informed that you need to use an online service like photobucket, simply upload your pictures to photobucket and then click on the “get links” tab under the gear on the top right hand corner of the picture this will bring up a series of links. After the series of link is up simply click on the fourth link and it will copy it, then paste the link into the post (using the full reply) and then the picture should show up. I hope this helps, if you are still unsure let me know and I will try to help any way I can.

[Deerefan8420]

I use Photobucket. I upload my pictures to Photobucket then copy and paste the Image Link(there should be a box to the lower right.of the page that has a link that you can copy) in the reply box here on the thread. I'm not sure how to do it straight from the computer. Never could get mune to do right.

[Coindude]

I would say the type 1 is mainly more expensive in cameo. There is a small premium in brilliant. I will tell you that the type 1 is probably only 10%of the population.

[BillJones]

Franklin half dollars are not my thing, but here's what I've read about the Type I and Type II eagles on the coin. The Type II was introduced on the 1956 Proof coins. After that the Type II eagle appeared on all Proof coins for the duration of the series (ending with the 1963 coins).

 

The Type II can also be found on some business strike Franklin haves after 1956, but most of them retained the Type I design. The business strike Type II coins were made from Proof dies that were recycled after they had been used to make the Proof coins. Maybe this is inaccurate, but it is what I've read.

 

[ArmyBud]

Thanks Bill....that's good info. I just bought a great looking Type I. If I can ever find out how to include a picture with my post I will post it!

[ArmyBud]

Looks like Photo bucket here I come!

Bud

[ArmyBud]

Let's see if this works.....

http://s1286.photobucket.com/user/sowersbud/media/1956Type1Eyepopper_zps8a535dd2.jpg.html

 

 

[ArmyBud]

Ok...one more time!

 

 

Bud

[ArmyBud]

Ok...here is the reverse....not very big.

 

 

Bud

 

Man....we are in trouble now!! I have a new toy!!!

[ArmyBud]

Thanks to everyone that helped me with this. What a powerful tool!! When the coin actually gets here I will attempt to photo it and add to this string of post.

[ArmyBud]

I have one more question: I have lots of proof franklins raw, multiple years. If I store them in a tube should I put something in between the coins to prevent them from rubbing? Is there such a thing? I am going to have them slabbed but want to organize them and submit them as I get the $$s to do so.

Bud

[coinman1794]

Franklin half dollars are not my thing, but here's what I've read about the Type I and Type II eagles on the coin. The Type II was introduced on the 1956 Proof coins. After that the Type II eagle appeared on all Proof coins for the duration of the series (ending with the 1963 coins).

 

The Type II can also be found on some business strike Franklin haves after 1956, but most of them retained the Type I design. The business strike Type II coins were made from Proof dies that were recycled after they had been used to make the Proof coins. Maybe this is inaccurate, but it is what I've read.

 

The type II business strike halves were struck only in 1958 and 1959, and retired proof dies were definitely used for at least some of these. The 1958 is scarce, while the 1959 is common. The earliest strikes from the 1959 dies strongly resemble proofs; only the inferior planchet quality, single striking, and a few extra die polishing lines make it possible to tell them apart.

 

 

[coinman1794]

I have one more question: I have lots of proof franklins raw, multiple years. If I store them in a tube should I put something in between the coins to prevent them from rubbing? Is there such a thing? I am going to have them slabbed but want to organize them and submit them as I get the $$s to do so.

Bud

 

If your proofs are high enough grade to be certified, they should not be stored in tubes. The slightest friction, hairlining, or chatter will lower their grades. They should be stored in individual coin holders.

[ArmyBud]

That's what I thought. I will store them in flips rather than tubes.....

Bud

[jpcienkus]

Make sure the flips are PVC free. An easy way to tell the difference is the PVC free flips feel "stiff or brittle". They don't close as easy, but they are better for your coin.

[ModCrewman-migration]

Ok...here is the reverse....not very big.

 

 

Bud

 

Man....we are in trouble now!! I have a new toy!!!

If that's the photo you used to determine it's a Type I, I think you'll end up being disappointed as if your coin has that strong of cameo contrast you've got a coin worth $3-500. For your sake I hope you are correct and it is a Type I, but that strong of contrast is much more frequently seen on a Type II.

[ArmyBud]

I sure hope it is!! When I get the actual coin I will experiment with the camera and post some pics. I haven't tried to take pictures yet but it's part of the process so I need to get good at it. From what I've read lighting is everything. With today's cameras it should be easy......I'll see! Thanks to everyone for the great info

Bud

[JIM F.]

Here's my example of a Type1 Proof. NGC PF-67* CAM. They are tough to find this nice, and perhaps a sleeper. This one is on its way to CAC.

[ArmyBud]

I have seen the term "CAC". What do they do?

Bud

[ArmyBud]

BTW......Nice Coin!!

Bud

[BillJones]

I have seen the term "CAC". What do they do?

Bud

 

"CAC" is a grading service that reviews NGC and PCGS slabbed coins. If the grade on the holder meets their standards, the place a green, football shaped sticker on the holder. If they think that the assigned grade is overall conservative, it gets a gold colored sticker. Coins that don't pass the muster in their opinion do not receive any marking.

[ArmyBud]

I received the coin and all of you were correct.....it is a 1956 Franklin Type II.

 

Here it is:

 

And here is the reverse:

[BruceTucson]

Good information, the photo shows up good and explains the difference well. I like Franklins.

[ArmyBud]

I like the "Franklin Years" myself. As I got into coin collecting I found out that I had to narrow my field and since my birth year was a "Key date" I started there. I soon found out that the methods they used was really not that good but some of the coins were beautiful. So.....I started buying/collecting The "Franklin years". It has been very satisfying and when I do luck up on a great coin it justifies what I am doing! This Forum and others that are truly in this for the love of collecting and associating the coin w/history have been very helpful and generous. The question of 1956 Type I and Type II has been answered and another chapter in collecting the Franklins is closed! Thanks to everyone who helped.

 

Bud