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I got these coins back from NGC a week ago.

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The results were a split. I sent in 10 coins, and 4 came back as I though they would. NGC didn't put the rpm designations on any errors I submitted except the clip. but that was fixed with a sticker that I wrote RPM on lol. The proof dime was better than I expected. I sent in a 1961 dime that came back PF69 Cameo and I only thought it would get PF65. One that made me mad was a 1964 Blunt 9 variety. I didn't notice the thin deep scratches on the reverse so it came back Proof details, scratched.

 

But I am happy with what the coins got.

 

I've been adding coins to a registry collection. If you want to take a look, feel free. I will be adding more this week. I have some coins that were included in what I got from the family member that passed away this month. They are in mixed TPG holders. I might put them in a competition set but I don't know yet. I have never done anything with the registry untill yesterday.

 

I want to do a competition set for Walking liberty halves or Merc dimes. Any advice about registry set competitons?

 

-Dave

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I havent sent coins to NGC, but on avg what does sending in 10 coins cost?

 

It cost me $258.00. I sent them in using the Economy teir, That covered the variety and error research also. but I sent in ASE's and a 1997 commem.

 

I don't submit many coins each year, But when I send coins in I send 10-25 at a time. My average expense for submitting to NGC is around $270.00.

 

-Dave

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No problem. I have made the mistake sending a nice coin to be graded and it comes back to a grade, that was worth the submission fees, but I have no room to make a profit on it. I have a bunch of nice MS morgan dollars that I wanted to send to a TPG, but in the words of my friends father who owned a coin shop for many years "some coins are worth more RAW" And he was 100% correct!

 

The biggest concern I have when I send any coins that I buy off Ebay to NGC is if the coin has been cleaned, polished or altered in a way that is hard to detect with a magnifier. I sent a 1955 Franklin to NGC that would easily grade PF67FBL. BUT The coin was cleaned so it came back UNC Details, improperly cleaned. I looked at that coin through every magnifier I own and I couldn't get how it was determined the coin was cleaned.

 

Just don't do this thing that I have done prior to sending in a coin and I am sure alot of people will agree with this statement: "I HOPE this coin comes back MS67 and not MS65. If it comes back MS67, it is worth $7,000 instead of $300.00. From what I have seen and from my own experence, I will never have my "dreams come true" when I submit a coin on a hope for a high HIGH grade. You should always check the value of a coin in multiple grades prior to submitting it. If you have an 1880S Morgan that looks like a MS63 (by what the Red Book has for grading info for Morgans) Check values for MS64 all the way down to AU50, or lower if you want. Weigh all the possible outcomes of the grade before anything and you could save some money.

 

-Dave

 

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I wouldn't agree that some coins are worth more raw (after all, a slab can be cracked). But I think your point is that some coins are not worth the grading expense. And that is very true.

 

By honing your grading skills, and consulting dealers and experienced collectors, you can make better decisions about the value of submitting coins for grading. I can't imagine sending in a coin I think might be MS63 and have it come back AU50.

Lance.

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