Image Evolution

[Buffalo Head]

I think your images look fantastic!! Great work!!

[Hard Times]

Thanks folks. Lot's of work ahead to be able to image and capture all types. I will keep putting up posts here when I learn something new.

 

Best, HT

[Keigwin]

Nice coins, HT!

 

There is a place for OTT and CFL's. Mark's book presents several uses where it is favored.

 

But I agree with Mark that halogen is a better source for most imaging. Certainly not all.

 

A good photographer can do wonders with many different kinds of lighting, of course.

 

Getting focus, lighting, and orientation right, along with proper camera presets, is half the job. The rest is editing, and it can be tricky. But you can also make up for shooting compromises.

 

You have found what you like. Perfect! Carry on.

Lance.

[Hard Times]

Hey Lance,

Yes I use CFL's and halogens, a t/s macro, and a 150mm macro, who knows what is next to keep the evolution going. Each has its own uses for sure.

 

Best, HT

[Hard Times]

Since the last post several things have happened. First, I need to thank Sir Messy for posting an image if his photostand plus equipment. He presented the idea of using a focus rail to refine the focus. Then after many discussions with Sam (The Coindude), I ended up buying the focus rail he recommended and thanks Sam for the help and enthusiasm. For the past several months I have been learning how to optimize the focus using the rail. I think I am getting there. Finally, after alot of time with CFL's I decided to go back to halogens. So what is imaged below is the combination of using a focus rail and halogens. The halogens have an advantage in that your aperture setting can be higher, and your shutter speed shorter, giving better depth of field, crisper images. The disadvantage is that they generate alot of heat. But they also don't have the long warm up, the white balance is correct from the moment the halogens are turned on. I had to wait around 10-15 minutes for the CFL's to warm up and achieve constant K. I also upgraded the lamp arms and holders, got myself some Kaiser lamp arms and holders that can give me precision locations for the lamps. Once they are locked in, they don't move.

 

The images below were one shoot each side after focus and lamp adjustment. A small amount of Exposure adjustment is pretty much all I did in photoshop. The famous MG imaged this coin also for the vendor. My wife tells me that my images on this one are indistuinguishable from those of MG. That is what I have been trying to achieve for 4 years, so I am getting there.

 

Best, HT

 

[Keigwin]

Outstanding, HT!

 

The next photography contest is going to be fun, don't you think?

Lance.

[Coindude]

Glad you're liking the results as am I. I just need more time on the pond to refine the technique.

[Hard Times]

Lance, I look forward to it, the competition is going to be tough, there are quite a few who have been learning over the past few years and refining technique.

 

Time on the pond, there is never enough of this time is there?

 

Best, HT

[jpcienkus]

Very nice HT. Now that I have a decent collection started, I'm looking to take on this challenge. It's great to see your advancements.

[Hard Times]

I am still having a hard time with gold, somehow their surfaces are hard to image right, especially for circulated examples. So this image is accurate with the exception of capturing the luster on the surfaces. I am still working this issue out with worn gold. Still using halogens, but maybe I will go back to CFL's for gold.

 

This one has nice cartwheels rotating through the recessed areas under a strong light. It is a first year of issue from the Charlotte Mint, a nice coin with strong history. I guarantee it has more eye appeal than the Walton nickel which sold for 430 times the price of this C mint quarter eagle and it left the mint legally.

 

Best, HT

 

[rmpsrpms]

Outstanding, HT!

 

The next photography contest is going to be fun, don't you think?

Lance.

 

Hah! I was snubbed on the last one. Got the "I don't know you" response when I tried to join...Ray

[Hard Times]

Well its been almost a year since I posted on this thread. Since then my photo set up has not changed, I have been working on refining the technique using the focus rail, and now just about every time all I need is one shot to be in focus and I recommend the focus rail strongly. Halogens are still on my lamp stands and I'm using the Sigma Macro 150 mm lens. Once I get everything shot to my liking I will switch over the the tilt and shift lens to do a better job of capturing surface luster for some coins.

 

Here are two shilling tokens I got at FUN which have now been graded by our host. I think I recall that Brandon got to see these in hand.

 

It boggles my mind how a token from 1811, never been messed with, extremely rare (200 or less extant), and in MS condition can be purchased for so little. It is even harder to find the book that NGC uses to attribute these and it cost about as much as the shillings did. But there you have it.

 

Best, HT

 

 

 

 

 

 

[wdrob]

Impressive results and very useful comparison between the CFL's and the Halogen bulbs.

 

I could see the difference and found that both seem to have their application. Definitely something I can experiment with soon I hope.

 

[Hard Times]

Here is an experiment in bringing contrast and luster out by light placement. The first up is an old image, and the light is fairly uniform across the surfaces. Looking at this you might interpret the coin to be dull for the grade, have no flash and possibly dipped too many times and probably not want to buy it if it were offered online without seeing in hand first. The second image is arranging the same two lights to different locations under otherwise the same conditions and camera settings. Notice how the contrast is now there, you get the idea that this coin does have some luster. It is subtle, but I personally like the second images better and think these are a more realistic depiction of the coin's obverse and reverse.

 

Best, HT