• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Walker '46, looking for some consolation...

11 posts in this topic

I might have overpaid (in terms of my meager budget), but was hoping for someone to take a quick peek. I know this is not a great coin, but am hoping it is at least a good coin. Again thanks for putting your knowledge and resources out on this page. I am reading something new here everyday. 1946walker012.jpg

 

1946walker010.jpg

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Saw this one immediately after you posted it. Was hoping you would get more help. But, at least James was there for you.

 

Again, I caution folks about pictures. Depending on how you take them----all kinds of different opinions can result.

 

In your 1946, I see NO luster. To me, the coin is dull. Also, I see some spotting alongside the L and the I of liberty. Just the way this looks leads me to believe the coin has been given either a dipping or a slight bath. Also, it appears to have some slight circulation rim hits as well as slight center line small hits.

 

Yet the reverse is well struck IMHO. So, for what it's worth, I go for an AU55 grade. In hand, I might be able to go towards James' MS60. But, in either case, I think that the coin would be valued about the same---in the 20 buck range---plus or minus----really depending in the future of how high the silver value goes?

 

Not a bad coin really----would look better than nice in an AU set. Hope this helps. Bob [supertooth]

Link to comment
Share on other sites

she looks like she might have been given a firm bath y towel dry. Good luck w/ submission if you decide to do so. NGC is being extremly picky right now.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This coin looks to have been dipped and the fields look dull. I don't think that it will grade. I see a little bit of rub on the head. I believe that it is a technical AU 58. If it were in a problem free slab it would RETAIL for about thirty bucks. A dealer would only give you AU 50 money for it, which would be 18.00 retail. I have been buying and selling alot lately, and realistically, (all factors of condition considered) you probably wouldn't get more than 15 bucks for it if sold to a dealer. Then he would probably turn it for 20 and make 5 bucks on it. The cull value of a 90% silver half is 12.65, as we speak. Many dealers would have an issue with the cleaned surfaces. It has a decent strike, though, and I don't see any single distracting abrasions.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks so much guys for the honest input. I swear before I zoomed in and snapped the pic, this coin has as much luster as my in the case Silver Eagles, but it is ugly when blown up. I used early morning sunlight only, but it does shine to the naked eye. The change in the blown up photo was what got me nervous. I was seeing things my magnifier didn't show after the photo.

 

What are the clues that it has been dipped? What should I look for? this is why I am posting.

 

I did overpay evidently, but picked up another of equal appearance for $7.00 (1942) and a "scrap bag" of silver that had an 1856 seated liberty quarter in VG-8 that I paid spot for so I broke even or a little better if AU-50 is the final verdict.

 

Not considering submitting. I am just beginning and looking to get my eye trained is all. Thanks a ton for taking time to help a rookie. I can tell the difference up to VF, but after that I am a bit lost. Thanks again.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The luster has diminished in the fields and there is no 'cartwheel effect', which is noticed, when rotating the coin. Even though I am not able to rotate the coin, it should be somewhat evident from the given camera angle.

 

Cartwheel is a windmill like effect of light that mint state coins exhibit. The cartwheel effect is due to a random occurence of coin design, planchet size, and die preparation methods. This effect can be seen on nearly any mint state coin. The cartwheel effect is caused by flow lines that occur during the coin striking process, and the effect is compromised, relatively easily, disappearing as a result of circulation (although AU coins can exhibit this effect, there are breaks in the luster) or when the coin is cleaned. A well circulated coin will have no cartwheel effect but will be naturally toned and have a greyish tint; it will not appear to be shiny.

 

There also looks like the after dip remnants (or residue) of toning near the L and the I in LIBERTY on the obverse.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Being able to tell about the surfaces of any coin is "most important". Taking a digital photo can be a great help----especially if that picture is taken "BEFORE" the coin is purchased.

 

It is simply amazing what additional information that can be obtained from that photo. You do see things that---even under a loupe you would otherwise NOT see.

 

Buy yourself a cheap "halogen" lamp----about 25 bucks. You will see cleaning lines better----wheel marks from counting machines----it will save you a lot of headaches.

 

Tilting the coin in hand under a halogen light source will also allow you to see the cartwheel affect move as the coin is tilted. This lets you see how that luster moves across the open surfaces of the coin. When this is done, you can see if there are any breaks in how it moves as the coin is rotated and tilted. It is quite interesting once you get the hang of it.

 

A coin that has been dipped or cleaned or altered will show many of its problems under such a halogen. This will cut your mistakes down to just a few instead of the many that you would otherwise make.

 

Also, you might just buy a single NGC or PCGS graded MS gem coin. That way you have a coin to compare all others to----say a Walker. Then you will see what to look for in the future. Bob [supertooth]

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Being able to tell about the surfaces of any coin is "most important". Taking a digital photo can be a great help----especially if that picture is taken "BEFORE" the coin is purchased.

 

It is simply amazing what additional information that can be obtained from that photo. You do see things that---even under a loupe you would otherwise NOT see.

 

Buy yourself a cheap "halogen" lamp----about 25 bucks. You will see cleaning lines better----wheel marks from counting machines----it will save you a lot of headaches.

 

Tilting the coin in hand under a halogen light source will also allow you to see the cartwheel affect move as the coin is tilted. This lets you see how that luster moves across the open surfaces of the coin. When this is done, you can see if there are any breaks in how it moves as the coin is rotated and tilted. It is quite interesting once you get the hang of it.

 

A coin that has been dipped or cleaned or altered will show many of its problems under such a halogen. This will cut your mistakes down to just a few instead of the many that you would otherwise make.

 

Also, you might just buy a single NGC or PCGS graded MS gem coin. That way you have a coin to compare all others to----say a Walker. Then you will see what to look for in the future. Bob [supertooth]

 

great post

Link to comment
Share on other sites