Looking for advice re: type set albums

[patronics]

I'm a rookie collector, and I was hoping to get some advice on how to proceed.

 

A few years ago I purchased an Intercept Shield Jefferson Nickels album, because I read that nickels were fairly easy to collect, and that the IS albums were more "modern" and safer than Danscos and others. Flash forward to now, and the nickels haven't held my interest very well.

 

I've decided I'd like to work towards a basic US type set, which I understand corresponds to the classic Dansco 7070 album. I think other albums have similar type set books (I know IS does). But I've also read that any album may still allow toning, or abrasion marks from pushing the coins into the pages. If I'm going to do this, I'd like to collect the best possible coins on my budget (very small) and keep them in the best possible condition, and perhaps send them in for slabbing one day. I'd like to see my set on the registry.

 

Knowing all that, what should I do? Stick with an album now for fun, and damn the torpedos? Or, go ahead and put them in individual flips, airtites, or IS holders knowing that I'll want to submit them in the future, even if it means they're less fun to display?

 

Any and all advice would be appreciated. That includes talking me into/out of the type set, or the nickels!

[James_OldeTowne]

First of all, Welcome to our friendly little neighborhood!

 

I think you'll get many responses, and I could launch into a length diatribe, but I won't. I'll post one selective piece of advice. And by the way, I LOVE LOVE LOVE filling in albums, and have two 7070s in progress.

 

So here's advisory #1:

 

There is a front slide and a back slide. Tape the FRONT one in place very carefully so it cannot move. Thus, the problem with potential slide marks on the front is SOLVED. (That's the most important side.)

 

Next, fold a small piece of scotch tape over the end of the back slides. This is so you can easily access them to pull them out in the future, kind of like a "tab", in case you insert them in to far. Finally, when you add coins to the album -- upside down from the reverse side, of course -- place a piece of handiwrap or other food wrap over your finger, and press the coin in ALL THE WAY until it practically touches the now-stationary front slide.

 

You will never, ever risk getting slide marks this way.

 

PS: Always use canned air to blow away any possible dust particles just prior to insertion of a coin.

[JIM F.]

7070. I just completed mine after 35 years from the start...hopefully yours will not take so long!

 

[michael]

go ahead and put them in individual flips, airtites, or IS holders knowing that I'll want to submit them in the future, even if it means they're less fun to display?

 

 

(thumbs u

 

they are fun to take out and look at and examine in hand if you want to

impossible hard to do in an album

 

and also many early coins pre 1835 dont fit too well into album holes

 

 

 

 

[michael]

oh and welcome to the boards (thumbs u

[lehigh96]

Hang with me for a while and I promise I can rekindle your interest in Jefferson Nickels. Out of curiosity, what is it that caused you to lose interest in them?

 

I have both a high end registry collection of Jeffersons and an Intercept Shield album and I have found building both sets very rewarding.

 

 

Here is a Jefferson Nickel from my album collection to help light your fire.

 

 

Welcome to the forum,

 

Paul

[patronics]

Hang with me for a while and I promise I can rekindle your interest in Jefferson Nickels. Out of curiosity, what is it that caused you to lose interest in them?

 

I'm not totally sure, but I suspect it's because I don't yet appreciate coin designs in circulation. Seeing a Jefferson nickel is an everyday occurrence, and they're probably the coin I notice the least in all of my pocket change. Things like full steps (which I've only just read about) are maybe a little harder for a novice to appreciate compared to unfamiliar old designs, or cameos, or anything gold. Something like a Mercury dime is immediately more exciting to me because I've only seen one or two in my lifetime. I don't doubt that a set of quality Jefferson nickels can be beautiful, but I'm guessing it takes a little more experience to really appreciate.

 

Since I'm on a college student budget, all of my coins will have to come from change for the near future. Maybe if I have a few albums going, the US type set, pennies, dimes, etc., it will make going through my change more interesting.

 

Has anyone gone through the trouble to compare the different US type set albums, and the different set compositions on NGC and PCGS? They all seem to have optional commemorative and gold pages, but otherwise are they the same sets?

 

Also, I read on Wizard Coin Supply's site that there is a defect in the Intercept Shield album, where one of the holes is too small for the braided hair cent. Does anyone know if that's been corrected?

 

Thanks to all for the encouragement so far.

[BillJones]

I've collecting type coins for about 45 years, and I've now completed the half cent through non gold dollar set. You can check it out on this link:

 

Bill Jones non-gold type set

 

I've reached the point where my set is "in my mind" and not in an album, but I understand why you would like to have an album to hold your collection.

 

I might suggest Eagle holders. These holders place the coins in individual 2 inch by 2 inch plastic holder with inert mylar windows. Each coin can be labeled as you see fit, or you can use the labels that Eagle provides for a type set.

 

The beauty of the Eagle system is that you can include or exclude any coins you like. There are no preset holes to fill. You can take individual pieces out to look at them in the holders, and if you happen to get a very valuable piece you can take it out an put it in a safe deposit box.

 

The biggest downside to Eagle holders is that the album pages are fragile and easily broken if you are not careful with them. That is a concern, but you can replace individual pages if necessary.

 

Here is a view of the inside of one of my Eagle albums which houses one of my books of 19th century political tokens.

 

[patronics]

Maybe the piece of the puzzle I'm missing is this: how often are circulated coins sent in for grading? Is it fair to say that the sets I'm piecing together from pocket change are never going to be slabbed? If I eventually want to have a nice registry set, it would be mainly stuff I purchased from dealers?

 

If that's the case, I should just put the stuff in albums and be happy with it.

[JStull]

Maybe the piece of the puzzle I'm missing is this: how often are circulated coins sent in for grading? Is it fair to say that the sets I'm piecing together from pocket change are never going to be slabbed? If I eventually want to have a nice registry set, it would be mainly stuff I purchased from dealers?

 

If that's the case, I should just put the stuff in albums and be happy with it.

 

You have to look at the cost of submitting circulated coins for slabbing and grading to the condition of those coins.

 

It really wouldn't or couldn't be justified to pay the expense on submitting a coin that's been circulated as there would tend to be a lot of wear, bagmarks, etc.

 

The circulated coin would have to be in pristine condition, i.e. no wear, no bagmarks, as strong luster as is possible with a circulated coin, compared to the exceptional condition and full luster of a coin NIFC.

 

 

[BillJones]

Is it fair to say that the sets I'm piecing together from pocket change are never going to be slabbed? If I eventually want to have a nice registry set, it would be mainly stuff I purchased from dealers?

 

 

The coins that you are pulling from pocket change will probably never be worth slabbing unless you get lucky and find some sort of a variety coin, like a 1983 doubled die cent or something on that order. The rule of thumb for many is that a coin should be worth $200 before it's worth slabbing, but there are exceptions. Some dealers get bulk slabbing deals which make it worthwhile to get some lower priced coins slabbed. One example is the 1943 wartime steel cent. That coin is part of a registry set, and you need one to make your type set complete, but it only sells for $20 or so in MS-66. Once and a while you will find a dealer has one he will sell at that level.

 

As putting together a nice registry set, I'd advise you to buy the coins in the slabs that you want and skip the bother of getting them slabbed yourself. You need to be an expert grader to know what to buy that can be slabbed and then use that expertise to decide which coins are worth slabbing. Today a great many worthwhile coins have already been slabbed, and many of the pieces that "raw" (not slabbed) are raw for a reason. That reason is quite often, they have problems and can't be given a slab grade.

 

Learning how to grade coins is combination of two things: a great deal of study and experience AND some God given talent. Some people just can never get the hang of if.

[patronics]

The rule of thumb for many is that a coin should be worth $200 before it's worth slabbing, but there are exceptions.

 

Ah, okay, this is exactly the kind of info I was looking for. Thanks!

[Kenneth F]

Im addicted to the Dansco Albums. You have to decide what direction you want your collection to go. Thats a problem I have, I cant decide. Ill work on the albums one year and then jump to the registry another. As for the Dansco Albums, its always nice to have a complete book. I finished my 7070 last year and I love it.. now its time to upgrade (need a better draped bust half cent). I also completed my jefferson nickel, roosevelt dime, washington quarter, kennedy half, sacagawea dollar, and peace dollar albums. Would I pull from any of these books for certification, no.