Franklin Key Dates

[Tanman-migration]

Yes, I am asking for yalls help on what are the key dates for Franklins. BUT I would also like info on where I can find this information for myself. I know that just because a particular year had a low mint number does not mean that is a difficult year to collect. The Red Book does not give us this information.

 

So, please let me know the key dates on the Franklins because I am actively looking over raw coin from dealers. BUT please direct me to a website/book that can provide similair info for all types because my tastes might change in the future.

 

Kinda the whole "Give a man a fish and feed him for a day, teach him to fish and feed him for a lifetime" approach to coin collecting.

 

Thanks!!

Tanman

[Oldtrader3]

Buy Rick Tomaska's book on Franklin Halves.

[Tanman-migration]

Cool! Amazon has some for used cheap. Thanks!!

 

Tanman

[2centsalMD-migration]

You should find them in "The Red Book". I would say any silver one is a keeper. Also, Look for error's. I just found a 1968d with "doubled Letters" on the Reverse. Any other question about Error coins? Just Email or PM me. I've got a good amount of experience with error coins.

[coinman_23885]

Yes, I am asking for yalls help on what are the key dates for Franklins. BUT I would also like info on where I can find this information for myself. I know that just because a particular year had a low mint number does not mean that is a difficult year to collect. The Red Book does not give us this information.

 

So, please let me know the key dates on the Franklins because I am actively looking over raw coin from dealers. BUT please direct me to a website/book that can provide similair info for all types because my tastes might change in the future.

 

Kinda the whole "Give a man a fish and feed him for a day, teach him to fish and feed him for a lifetime" approach to coin collecting.

 

Thanks!!

Tanman

 

There are a few ways to do this: 1) go through a decent price guide and isolate the most expensive coins; 2) look at the PCGS/NGC population reports; 3) look at the registry points allotted here and across the street to create a rough "index". Other than that, I'd try the Tomaska book which I have heard several people talk about.

[JStull]

I would say any silver one is a keeper.

 

Psst! c'mere *whispering* I hate to tell you this, all Franklins are silver, 90% to be exact, .36169 ounces .

[djdilliodon]

Imo there really isn't a key date as far as im concerned. Many feel its the 49d but this series is readily available in ms. What is challenging in this series is coins of high grade with fbl and some are just rare in high grade.

[JStull]

Imo there really isn't a key date as far as im concerned. Many feel its the 49d but this series is readily available in ms. What is challenging in this series is coins of high grade with fbl and some are just rare in high grade.

 

Redbook doesn't list any Franklins as being "keydates" to my knowledge.

[Oldtrader3]

The Franklin design does not lend itself to covering any surface issues with design attributes. The coin has vast open surfaces which show every ding and luster break. I personally like the Franklin half dollar and have put together several sets of BU and certified coins. The last full set that I built was MS65FBL, with some few higher grade coins in it and some of the keys were in just MS65 (without FBL) because of cost. The series has been down in price for several years but nice FBL, well struck pieces (especially with NGC slabs) are very challenging to find nice. Fully struck pieces are nearly impossible to find in some issues.

 

This makes a nice set, if you can find clean, well struck examples which match somewhat in color and toning. Toning is an issue with this set, in particular, because of the Mint packaging that the business strikes were issued in. Many coins have turned dark or ugly gray in the Mint's packaging envelopes.

 

Presently, I only have the 1949 pieces as part of a 1949 Mint Registry Set. I sold the 1949, MS66FBL coins as being not justifiable for a retired person and the rest of my 1949 Mint Set set did not match them anyway. Buy quality and look at lots of pieces from each year and MM to get used to what they look like. These coins do vary a lot from mint to mint and year to year.

 

I have always focused mainly on the "D" and "S" mint early issues in high grades. However many people like to collect the later issues in FBL and well struck pieces because some issue (in the 1960's) are very hard to find in MS65FBL or above. Good luck with collecting Franklin's. Nice ones are expensive and are a challenge.

[SkyMan]

Keys is somewhat of a misnomer for Franklins. There really aren't any difficult coins to find. Finding them in a grade and with a look that you find attractive at a price that is reasonable to you will be the only issue you face. In raw MS63-5 condition the theoretical key to the series is the '49-S, but it's not particularly difficult to find. The other semi-keys (if you will) in this condition will be the '49, '49-D and '52-S. Take your time getting the coins as there are literally millions of them out there, so you can afford to be patient.

[Oldtrader3]

Some dates/MM's (i.e. 1960-D) can be hard to find nice, fully struck and FBL. Many of the dates after 1955-P were not handled carefully and were set up to yield as many coins, not for quality of strike and lack of handling marks.

 

You will find that when you start utting together a collection, that many of the later dates are show stoppers to acquire high quality coins. The 1948's and 1949's may be the low mintage dates but they are relatively much easier to get strikes from. The 1949-S is the hardest in high grade (MS66FBL) because there are so few specimens.

 

Despite this low supply, I was able to find a MS66FBL, 1949-S easier than a 1960-D, MS65FBL Franklin.

[cpm9ball]

I would say any silver one is a keeper.

 

Psst! c'mere *whispering* I hate to tell you this, all Franklins are silver, 90% to be exact, .36169 ounces .

 

Now you have me confused! First, you say that all Franklins are silver and then you say only 90% are. Which is it?

 

Chris

[Tanman-migration]

Thanks for all the feedback!

[physics-fan3.14]

Tanman, if you want a free resource, I (again) recommend my Registry set. I discuss which issues are more difficult to find. Without FBL, most are pretty easy to find in MS-65 (now, toned with great eye appeal may be another story!). However, with FBL, the biggest key is 53S, followed by 49D, 52S, 54S, 61P, 62P, and 63P. These will all be quite pricey, and can be very difficult to find in 65FBL.

 

I would also highly recommend the Tomaska book. His second edition is quite good, but he just came out with the Red Book Guide to Franklin and Kennedy half dollars. I found the date by date section be bland and boring (not as useful as the Complete Guide to Franklin Half Dollars, 2nd edition), but the intro material was much better.

[JStull]

I would say any silver one is a keeper.

 

Psst! c'mere *whispering* I hate to tell you this, all Franklins are silver, 90% to be exact, .36169 ounces .

 

Now you have me confused! First, you say that all Franklins are silver and then you say only 90% are. Which is it?

 

Chris

 

You need to tread lightly. I have a cowardly lion and I know how to use him.

 

 

put 'em up PUT 'EM UP!

[delta]

I'm becoming interested in Franklin half dollars which I never paid any attention to before, although Benjamin Franklin is among my foremost heroes. The above info in this thread is very useful and much appreciated. Thanks!

 

Silver spot was quoted today at $37.60 per ounce, so the silver content alone of each coin is about $13.60, meaning that over the last 48 years, during the period since the last Franklin half was issued in 1963, the value has increased about 27 times. If the value increases further only another 7+ times, the two Franklins will be equivalent: the Franklin half dollar will be equal in value to the Franklin $100 Federal Reserve Note. That counts only the bullion value, and doesn't account for numismatic premiums for specimens in high grades with excellent strikes.

[lcoopie]

If you look at the PCGS price guide,

that will give you some idea of the better dates,

at higher grades.

 

The Key is the 53S in FBL. (period)

 

Tomaska has a new book out for additional info.

 

Circulated coins go mostly for melt.

[delta]

What's the highest dollar price any Franklin half has actually sold for? Just asking out of curiosity. Including auction realizations and private sales. In the NGC Coin Price Guide, the 1953S FBL is listed at $45,940 in MS 66, and the 1953 proof in PFUC 68 is listed at $65,000, both figures mindboggling to me. No wonder there is such active discussion about Franklin grades.

[djdilliodon]

What's the highest dollar price any Franklin half has actually sold for? Just asking out of curiosity. Including auction realizations and private sales. In the NGC Coin Price Guide, the 1953S FBL is listed at $45,940 in MS 66, and the 1953 proof in PFUC 68 is listed at $65,000, both figures mindboggling to me. No wonder there is such active discussion about Franklin grades.

 

Heritage auctioned a 53 Pf68 ultra cameo graded by NGC for $63,250! They did a 53 s pcgs 66 FBL which sold for $35,075! Im sure there are many others.

[delta]

Thanks! A related question please: If anyone wanted to obtain just a single high-grade FBL Franklin half for a type set, what year and mintmark do you suggest would probably be most affordable? Not the highest grade, and not the best FBL, but just an excellent example. For mint state and proof. I hope that's not a tough question, but rather one you can answer right off the top of your head.

 

 

What's the highest dollar price any Franklin half has actually sold for? Just asking out of curiosity. Including auction realizations and private sales. In the NGC Coin Price Guide, the 1953S FBL is listed at $45,940 in MS 66, and the 1953 proof in PFUC 68 is listed at $65,000, both figures mindboggling to me. No wonder there is such active discussion about Franklin grades.

 

Heritage auctioned a 53 Pf68 ultra cameo graded by NGC for $63,250! They did a 53 s pcgs 66 FBL which sold for $35,075! Im sure there are many others.

[SkyMan]

Thanks! A related question please: If anyone wanted to obtain just a single high-grade FBL Franklin half for a type set, what year and mintmark do you suggest would probably be most affordable? Not the highest grade, and not the best FBL, but just an excellent example. For mint state and proof. I hope that's not a tough question, but rather one you can answer right off the top of your head.

 

 

For business strike I'd probably go for a 1948. It's the first year of issue so the master die is at it's prime, and there are quite a few well struck examples floating around since collectors saved the new issue. For proof I'd probably go for a 1962 or 1963 with at least a cameo contrast. The contrast makes for quite an attractive coin, and given the millions of proofs minted those years there are plenty of cameos out there at quite reasonable prices. BTW, the FBL designation is NOT given for proofs as all proofs are assumed to be FBL.

[djdilliodon]

If your into colorful toning for me it would be a MONSTER 1958 D in ms66 FBL. 58 D's can come so beautifully toned its amazing and also are not that difficult to find. A truely exceptional example of that date and grade with monster color will most likely set you back around $500 or more but its well worth it.

[physics-fan3.14]

The highest price I'm aware of for a business strike Franklin is $69k for a 1953S in FBL (I forget the grade).

[coinman_23885]

Jason, it was a PCGS MS66 FBL. I think the coin has depreciated since then.

[delta]

Many thanks for the info and links to those fabulous registry collections. I hope it's not a dumb question, but how do you explain the tendencies of different dates and mintmarks of Franklins to tone differently? Yesterday I saw a 1948 that had toned an almost uniform yellowish.

 

 

Thanks! A related question please: If anyone wanted to obtain just a single high-grade FBL Franklin half for a type set, what year and mintmark do you suggest would probably be most affordable? Not the highest grade, and not the best FBL, but just an excellent example. For mint state and proof. I hope that's not a tough question, but rather one you can answer right off the top of your head.

 

 

For business strike I'd probably go for a 1948. It's the first year of issue so the master die is at it's prime, and there are quite a few well struck examples floating around since collectors saved the new issue. For proof I'd probably go for a 1962 or 1963 with at least a cameo contrast. The contrast makes for quite an attractive coin, and given the millions of proofs minted those years there are plenty of cameos out there at quite reasonable prices. BTW, the FBL designation is NOT given for proofs as all proofs are assumed to be FBL.

[delta]

Thanks very much for the info and suggestion. Can you please explain what underlying factors about the 1958D imparted it with the tendency for exceptional rainbow toning?

 

If your into colorful toning for me it would be a MONSTER 1958 D in ms66 FBL. 58 D's can come so beautifully toned its amazing and also are not that difficult to find. A truely exceptional example of that date and grade with monster color will most likely set you back around $500 or more but its well worth it.

[djdilliodon]

Thanks very much for the info and suggestion. Can you please explain what underlying factors about the 1958D imparted it with the tendency for exceptional rainbow toning?

 

If your into colorful toning for me it would be a MONSTER 1958 D in ms66 FBL. 58 D's can come so beautifully toned its amazing and also are not that difficult to find. A truely exceptional example of that date and grade with monster color will most likely set you back around $500 or more but its well worth it.

 

Its believed that the mint packaging or something they did at the mint to the planchets is the cause. I personally think its more to do with the packaging but that's just me.

[SkyMan]

Many thanks for the info and links to those fabulous registry collections. I hope it's not a dumb question, but how do you explain the tendencies of different dates and mintmarks of Franklins to tone differently? Yesterday I saw a 1948 that had toned an almost uniform yellowish.

 

 

There have been a variety of guesses as to why different date/mm tone differently... different planchet preparation, different washing of the planchet, different paper/cardboard in the mint sets etc. Truth be told, no one is entirely sure why the different date/mm tone differently. However, it is a well known fact that different date/mm do indeed tone differently. As mentioned previously, if you want a killer toner, the most likely date/mm for finding one is a 1958-D.

 

On a slightly different note, the master die that was created in 1948 got progressively more worn down until a new one was cut in 1960. The end result of this wear is that you will lose more and more detail on a well struck coin from 1948 until 1959. Note for example the 3 strands of hair by Ben's ear in 1948 in essence turning to one clump by the latter 1950's.

[delta]

Those are fabulously delicious details, thanks for sharing them. How much of that information is discussed in the Rick Tomaska book, which I intend to obtain? Thanks again.

 

There have been a variety of guesses as to why different date/mm tone differently... different planchet preparation, different washing of the planchet, different paper/cardboard in the mint sets etc. Truth be told, no one is entirely sure why the different date/mm tone differently. However, it is a well known fact that different date/mm do indeed tone differently. As mentioned previously, if you want a killer toner, the most likely date/mm for finding one is a 1958-D.

 

On a slightly different note, the master die that was created in 1948 got progressively more worn down until a new one was cut in 1960. The end result of this wear is that you will lose more and more detail on a well struck coin from 1948 until 1959. Note for example the 3 strands of hair by Ben's ear in 1948 in essence turning to one clump by the latter 1950's.

[SkyMan]

A fair amount of this is discussed.