Question on ebay seller 'washinton-quarter-exchange'..and album advice sought

[TheMightyDuke]

Has anyone dealt with the ebay seller 'washington-quarter-exchange'? I've watched some of their items, and their coins bring strong prices, most of the time. The reason HAS to be their images......the images make the coins look like they are just SUPER looking coins, just high-end gems. BUT, they are all raw coins, and I don't believe I've seen a toner from them yet. Hence these following questions.....

 

HAS anyone dealt with them, and if you have, are their images truly representative of the coin? Their images show coins that look like they should be in holders, so the coin could realize it's full potential. So, with that being stated, I have a few questions to ask...

 

1) We all know, if a RAW coin (not any old modern coin, but something older..say, just for instance, it's a 1936 Washie, that looks like a lock 65, maybe 66....this is NOT a coin they have for sale, not that I know of, already have it...I'm looking at another date)....looks like it's a solid MS65, especially if it's a raw coin on ebay (now, not ALL raw coins on the 'bay are problem/photoshopped coins...a small % can be real winners, we all know that, we've all seen members success stories). But, if it looks that great, and there are big spreads between grades, there MUST be a problem with it, or it would have been already sent in and graded, in order for it to realize it's full potential. To those who have dealt with them-'washington-quarter-exchange', how has your experience been? I know there are a few other great raw Washie sellers, like davenders and John Scanlon..and I have used them in the past, and been very happy. But 'w-q-e', is new to me, and I need to know if their stuff is as imaged/described, as the prices are going to be a bit high (for a 'poor boy' like me)...so, how was your experience with them? ARE these coins as nice as they appear, or are the images taken of their 'good side'?

 

2) Obviously, I'm interested in one/some of 'washington-quarter-exchanges' coins for my Dansco '32-'98, including proofs (the open slots are now the more expensive ones, in other words, the early dates). Most of my coins are MS65/66 as of now ......they're all white, MS blazers, and all will be, save for the keys and semi keys (those will be nice sliders, hopefully), except for the '32-D/'32-S, obviously, seeing I'm a 'poor boy'...fortunately, there aren't alot that that are super expensive. Even in MS62/63, they aren't moon money. But NO toners, all white blazers..... so.....as far as albums go, is Dansco a good album for keeping them white (don't want them to tone in a year or less, like some members/former members want), but I do want them to stay blazers as long as can be. OR, should I just change it and get, say, an Intercept Shield album (realizing, I'd need to replace 'those' certain insert pages that keeps out the 'bad stuff'). Comments on the proper album to keep them from NOT toning would be greatly appreciated. I understand, no album can guarantee keeping a coin from toning forever.

 

I know it's kinda long-winded, but I'm really wondering about these questions. The akbum part has been something I should have asked before (the coins have been in the album less than a year, and are still just as blazing as they were when I put them in).

 

In regard to ebay seller 'washington-quarter-exchange's' coins...noone likes to get a coin that isn't what they thought it should be...but their coins look so nice, they SHOULD be slabbed, and that makes me have to seriously think before going with them. I'm not sure if I have a bad 'gut' feeling or not, in regard to their quality. I've cracked out some 65's/66's for the album, and I swear, their raw ones look nicer than some of my 66's (all my crack-outs are from our hosts, ATS, or ANACS...the old ANACS, not the newer ones). So, anyone that has experience with them, I'd greatly appreciate you letting me know your opinion, Thanks in advance

[James_OldeTowne]

I sold many outstanding coins way-back-when, so there are plenty of eBay sellers who have very nice goods available. The most important thing is simply to make sure you get a solid return policy. In other words, buy a coin only if it's sight-seen, where you get the final decision based on seeing the coin in hand.

[michael]

as james says get a full no questions asked money back guarantee

 

and as james also says buy a coin only if you can see it sight seen to make your decision 9 along with the no questions asked iron clab money back guarantee)

 

so.................

 

no matter how great the photos of the coin; a coin can only be evaulated by your standards; in hand sight seen

 

this is why the grading services only accept coins to be graded in hand sight seen not with photos and of course grading is extremely subjective even when viewing in hand by knowledgable numismatists

 

since it is a new seller (to you) ? you got to take what information you can find out and then make a decision and see what happens as with anything over a long distance especially so with ebay you pays your money and you takes your chances

 

is this a good risk?? dont know only you can deside

 

good luck and let me know what happens!

 

 

 

 

 

[dgleich-migration]

I have purchased from them... you really have to study those photos as they are "soft". (they all look like MS70 at first glance) He grades decently but within "GEM" I have found absolutely superb and what I grade as choice. But who knows as I have coins I would call MS64 that look much nicer, cleaner and more lusterous than some of the bag marked MS67 coins on "coinfacts".

 

Prices vary from auction to auction depending on who is out there that night. The coins are also pictured in black and white it seems though most are indeed "white". Again, you can do well but you have to stare down the images from an inch away!

 

When I first saw the coins, I had much the same reaction and decided to go for 4 early 60's D's. I won each for less that $10 and upon inspection noticed some bag marks that I never noticed before bidding. Upon further inspection, you could barely make out the imperfections after having the coin in hand and looking at the photos. I ended up that night with perhaps a 64+, two 65's and one that may infact be a big winner at a MS66.

 

Since, I have done a bit better on occasion. The best coins have been an amazing 1946 and a 1976 Silver that has not a single bag mark anywhere (for $7 or so). I only look at the GEMs unless it is a key date and max my bid somewhere around MS60 money.