New attempts at imaging Proofs with Axial Lighting

[kryptonitecomics]

Im on the verge of trying to put together a set of toned Proof Frankies since I have a couple of nice examples. For most of us Proof coins and DMPL coins in general are the most difficult to image due to the intense glare that comes of coin surface and the slabs themselves.

 

Typically I just take a shot with the lightbulb over head to capture the mirrored surfaces even though you can see the bulb in the image....and then my money shot if the difussed shot which shows off the color very well but not the PL surfaces and it almost looks like a 2-D image.

 

I had heard of axial lighting many years ago and made several unsuccessful attempts at using the technique but I was a complete novice at the time and my camera was sub par to say the least. I decided to try again tonight with a set up that couls only be described as a hodge podge of boxes, books, a pane of glass from a picture frame....pretty much what ever I could find around the house

 

I see this as a work in progress as I had to do a lot of fine tuning just to get the images this good but I do see potential in my images and technique so like always....it will take a lot more trial and error. I guess the only real downside to this technique is that the images yhat come straight out of the camera have to be processed with photo imaging software as the images get washed out quite a bit. I don't own Photoshop or anything close to it just the little picture adjustment software that came with the camera and it doesn't have any bells and whistle.

 

What I hope to do is share my progress as I continue to try to master the technique and post photo's the get progressively better. For those not familiar with Axial lighting I will copy some text and images from another site and include them here:

 

 

 

Axial Lighting

 

 

Axial lighting is a little-known technique which I think has great application in coin photography. In this technique, the light path travels straight back and forth along the same axis as the direction of the camera lens. Primarily used with microscopes or forensic photography, axial lighting can produce shadowless, yet high-contrast images with startling levels of detail.

 

An Axial Lighting Setup

 

 

As shown below, an axial lighting setup requires a flat and clear sheet of glass which is placed at a 45-degree angle to both the light source and the camera lens. Most of the light hitting the glass passes through it, but a significant portion of light is reflected downward at the subject—in this case, a coin.

You will notice I've used a small black object to shield the coin from any direct light. I've also darkened the room to avoid any stray reflections in the glass. Therefore, the camera lens sees only the light reflected from the surface of the coin.

 

 

 

 

 

ok long post and now for my images to see what this type of image technique can produce (at the novice level)

 

 

Normal image with the slabbed coin held directly under the light source....color is reflected back up into the camera but so is a ton of light and the reflection of the bulb. Probably the worst way to image a proof coin...

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

The next technique is diffused lighting where some type of cloth or paper is put between the coin and the light source which diffuses the light so the glare is eliminated. Whats left is colorful but the 2-D image looks more like a cartoon as the depth of the design elements is all but eliminated.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Finally we have the axial lighting which is close to a blend of the normal lighting and diffused lighting as we get a 3-D colorful image with design depth but without all the glare. I believe when fine tuned that this technique will be the only way to go when imaging proofs whether they be toned or cameo

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

[physics-fan3.14]

Great thread and very interesting conclusions! I might have to check this out, I'll let you know how it goes.

[Dene]

Shane, thanks for that info. I'll have to try that on some of my coins.

[Elbesaar]

 

Very informative - and great image comparisons.

 

Thanks for sharing !!

[Mark T]

Great post !!

[Coindude]

Very nice article here, but I think you should give some credit to Mark Goodman. I believe I've read this or very similar on Mark's website.

 

Here's a link: http://www.coinimaging.com/photography.html

 

Although, I did very much appreciate your pictures of the setup, hard to imagine with the instructions by Mark, and the contrast in the different lighting methods used to get the final and bet images.

[kryptonitecomics]

Very nice article here, but I think you should give some credit to Mark Goodman. I believe I've read this or very similar on Mark's website.

 

Here's a link: http://www.coinimaging.com/photography.html

 

Although, I did very much appreciate your pictures of the setup, hard to imagine with the instructions by Mark, and the contrast in the different lighting methods used to get the final and bet images.

 

 

I agree....did not mean to infer I created this technique or wrote down the instructions I simply found sites with definitions and images so if anything I borrowed from the web was Mark's then a big kudos to him.....only the images of my coins were mine but I saw no reason to create my own definitions since others had gone through the trouble of already doing so (thumbs u

[nwcs]

Interesting concept. I've seen the 45 degree glass before. Ultimately, though, it suffers from a distinct lack of light. With any reflective metal surface you'll have issues with choosing between the hot spots and the color. The key is to compress the dynamic range to fit the metal's characteristics (if you want to capture the full coin goodness). I found that careful lighting, white balance, proper metering, and maximizing my dynamic range really helps. Then it's OK to lose the specular highlights since they don't really matter and push the rest of the tones into the mid range of the camera's sensor.

[pendragon1998]

I've used axial techniques for all of my Britannia photos. Really, it's a bit of a semi-axial technique, because I'll allow a little light to fall directly onto the coins, in addition the axially-directed light.

 

Your axial photos are good. You need to work on improving the illumination in the shadow areas, next. I like your axial pics better than any of the earlier ones.

 

Here are a few examples of my own axial photography.

 

 

 

My setup is very simple. It's merely a squared-up block of oak with a 45 degree cut in it. I insert a piece of photo frame glass into the cut, and place the coin or slab directly onto the oak piece (or onto a slip of paper on the oak). Then I light and photograph. I don't use the black light blocker shown in the OP, because, as I've said, I take advantage of a little direct lighting to enhance shadows and contrast.

 

[kryptonitecomics]

Here is another coin that was always a bear for me....I was pleased with how the images came out although I still struggle with having to make the color adjustments after the imaging...

 

Normal lighting:

 

 

 

diffused lighting:

 

 

 

Axial Lighting:

 

[kryptonitecomics]

I've used axial techniques for all of my Britannia photos. Really, it's a bit of a semi-axial technique, because I'll allow a little light to fall directly onto the coins, in addition the axially-directed light.

 

Your axial photos are good. You need to work on improving the illumination in the shadow areas, next. I like your axial pics better than any of the earlier ones.

 

Here are a few examples of my own axial photography.

 

 

 

My setup is very simple. It's merely a squared-up block of oak with a 45 degree cut in it. I insert a piece of photo frame glass into the cut, and place the coin or slab directly onto the oak piece (or onto a slip of paper on the oak). Then I light and photograph. I don't use the black light blocker shown in the OP, because, as I've said, I take advantage of a little direct lighting to enhance shadows and contrast.

 

 

 

Good stuff and good photo's.......I have a lot of trail and error to go and I agree with you about the shadows....I am not used to that with my normal photo's........I will have to try to remove the blocker and see if it helps. I hate having to diffuse the light hitting the glass but when I remove the buffer in between I get the light bulb showing up in the images just the same as if the light was overhead

[pendragon1998]

The trick is to find the sweet spot created by angling the lamp just so and positioning the coin under the glass just so. Axial lighting offers some great possiblities, but it can be as finicky to get right as any other technique. It's not a magic solution; rather, it's another tool in your belt that you have to learn to use right. Takes time.

[kryptonitecomics]

I removed the block and the diffuser and then added an overhead light and got some interesting shots...I kinda like them.....

 

 

 

 

[pendragon1998]

You're on the right track with keeping the coin out of the arc of light created by the bulb's reflection. Your main issue seems to be underexposure. Can you bring the lamp in closer or lengthen your exposure time a little?

 

Be careful not to blow the highlights or leave pools of darkness on the coin either. Sometimes, a second light putting a little direct light on the shadowed areas can help with lighting issues like you're having.

[RWB]

Just some comments --

In general, true axial lighting does not give good result for coins in plastic cases, or for mirror proof coins where the main design is polished. Axial lighting is high contrast. The photography set up posted has too large a light source to give true axial lighting – using diffuse light will likely be easier.

[pendragon1998]

True axial is best for proofs, true. I find my setup works well for brilliant coins like that 2003 britannia as well.

 

Lighting gives me headaches.