• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Old Proof Set Questions

13 posts in this topic

Are the early proof sets worth more in their original packaging, or would it be better to get them graded. I know someone with 36-39 in original packaging, and they would like your thoughts on getting them graded. I have one very bad pic of the coins. I know it would cost several hundred dollars to get all of these graded. Would it be worth it? Do any of the grading companies grade th whole set or just individual grades?

 

 

 

PICT1400.jpg

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Are the early proof sets worth more in their original packaging, or would it be better to get them graded. I know someone with 36-39 in original packaging, and they would like your thoughts on getting them graded. I have one very bad pic of the coins. I know it would cost several hundred dollars to get all of these graded. Would it be worth it? Do any of the grading companies grade th whole set or just individual grades?

 

 

 

PICT1400.jpg

 

 

Those aren't original packaging.They re called "Capitol holders".I think original packaging had each coin in a plastine envelope in a small square box. Although I've been searching and haven't found a picture of an original original

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Those holders do not represent original packaging. Proof coins from that era came from the mint, individually in cellophane, which was stapled near the top. In answer to the original question, however, some buyers will pay small premiums for original packaging. That said, for many, the bottom line is that the sets are worth the sum of the individual parts/coins.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

that's cool MarkFeld. Thanks for the link. I guess I just thought these were original because that is the only way that I have seen them. What company would you submit these to? Is there any kind of proof set submission or would it have to be all individual?

Link to comment
Share on other sites

that's cool MarkFeld. Thanks for the link. I guess I just thought these were original because that is the only way that I have seen them. What company would you submit these to? Is there any kind of proof set submission or would it have to be all individual?
You're welcome. If the coins/sets are of sufficiently high quality, they are worth submitting, but otherwise, not.If you can have someone who is knowledgeable and trustworthy screen them for you first, that would be best.

 

I don't think it will make a lot of difference whether they are graded by NGC or PCGS, but others might disagree. If you are unable to submit them yourself and want me to, feel free to send me a private message. If you don't know who I am and want references, feel free to ask - I wont be insulted. ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

IF you had any of the early sets in original unmolested mint packaging, I would not break it up, no way no how. Original sets sell for very strong premiums.

 

As others have mentioned, you are showing us coins in after-market Capital Plastic holders

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

IF you had any of the early sets in original unmolested mint packaging, I would not break it up, no way no how. Original sets sell for very strong premiums.

 

As others have mentioned, you are showing us coins in after-market Capital Plastic holders

James, it's impossible to know what premiums such sets are bringing since they aren't graded. Consequently, there aren't prices for various grades to be able to compare them to. ;)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

If you were to get them graded,I think NGC could grade each set separately and put each year set in a single holder with the grades under each coin. If you were selling them it seems from what I've heard that singles sell for higher prices than complete sets.I think the reason is most collectors are looking to upgrade or switch to get closely matching coins in either grade or colors.If you aren't selling,leave them as is.

That '36 set alone is most desirable and depending on grades is worth somewhere in the $7,000+ range retail.

I'd get them graded,but it won't be cheap.Drool.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The last sale on Heritage was in 2/09 in NGC PR64 to PR-65 for $7700. In 6/07, a PCGS PR 64 to PR66 set with 65RD cent brilliant satin finish sold for $12000. There are no recent sales of raw sets. Either way, its a lot of money.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yea, they sell for a lot because they are in very high demand. Pieces in PR64 or higher are in much demand as well as any coins that have decent cameo contrast or that grade as cameo. One of the Buffs looked to have at least a bit of contrast, if it does it would be in high demand.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Yes, cameos are generally scarce or rare though its a narrow definition of rarity as in most instances. (I believe one of the Mercury dimes is relatively available as a cameo with somewhere in the vicinity of 20-30 census pop. The WLH, other mercury dimes and Buffalo nickels are not.) And yes, I would expect that a specimen with even a slight cameo contrast to sell for a premium (I would pay one) aside from the grade. But aside from these specimens with a narrow definition of scarcity, all of them are common. But given that they are common, I would probably (since I have not checked prices recently) still consider cameos, slight cameos and red cents to be a better value.

Link to comment
Share on other sites