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Here's some AT for you....

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Do you believe they are AT because the toning starts from the outside and there is none on the center or is it the deep color?

 

The toning is similar to metal that I've seen heated. Do you think this is how the toning was created - by heating the coin?

 

Just curious and learning (not how to AT, but how to identify them)

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That guy sent me an email the other day asking me if they were AT and I told him they were. I was not able to respond back to him until after he already started the auction but it would have been nice if he would have added that to the auction description.

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Gunsmoke...there are folks a lot smarter and have looked at a lot more coins than me...but I look at those and they " just don't look right"....too deep and severe and the borders of the toning seem too well defined...

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"....too deep and severe and the borders of the toning seem too well defined...

 

That is what struck me too. I appreciate people posting these kinds of links so that people like me can see examples of AT and other problems.

 

I have some Morgans that toned naturally and it is nice having them as comparison. Still, I probably would not buy a raw toned coin unless I knew and trusted the person selling it or it was an NGC or PCGS coin.

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actually a "well done" AT job will have more surface luster than a true toned coin. In real toning the top surface of the metal is corroded so to speak so it will lose some luster. When AT is applied, it sits on top of the metal, so the luster can still be there as long as the surface wasnt damaged while applying the AT.

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The key to this piece is that the surfaces are uniform in color. On a naturally toned piece, you'll see that there are breaks in color around raised design elements like stars, letters, Liberty's head, etc. That is not the case with this piece.

 

I'm hardly an expert on this subject, but if you get the chance, take a look at Robert Campbell's video on the subject. That may be me you hear in the background asking stupid questions.

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