shirohniichan Posted November 21, 2002 Share Posted November 21, 2002 The 1875 I/I T$ and 1876 II/II T$ are two of the coins in the series worth far less in proof than in MS. So how does one keep from getting burned when buying a circulated example that may turn out to be an impaired proof? If some of the details are worn off, how can we be sure which is which? The 1876 II/II almost always comes prooflike. What should I look for on a circulated '76 II/II so I can be sure it was a business strike and not a circulated proof? A certain die scratch? Different serifs? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVillageProwler Posted November 21, 2002 Share Posted November 21, 2002 Tough question, Shiroh. Since you're asking about circulated specimens, I'd have to recommend that you simply look in the protected areas. On the obv, look at the small field areas between the numerals of the date. On the rev, look in the areas between the wings and the branches and arrows. Those areas would retain their proof surfacing the longest, and would be difficult to fully polish if the dies were for regular strikes. Also, look at the rim. If the rim is still generally square, that's another telltale sign. Circulated proofs don't get rounded rims; they just get them banged up. EVP Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Tradedollarnut Posted November 21, 2002 Share Posted November 21, 2002 I seem to recall that Type II coins have different eagle feathers - look for proof surfaces within the spaces between feathers. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shirohniichan Posted November 22, 2002 Author Share Posted November 22, 2002 For your niewing pleasure, here is the B&M auction specimen from last year. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shirohniichan Posted November 22, 2002 Author Share Posted November 22, 2002 Here is one that circulated, then was worked on. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shirohniichan Posted November 22, 2002 Author Share Posted November 22, 2002 Here is the obverse of my AU cleaned example. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shirohniichan Posted November 22, 2002 Author Share Posted November 22, 2002 Here is the reverse. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVillageProwler Posted November 22, 2002 Share Posted November 22, 2002 save me some effort... what did bowers say about that specimen from last year? pf or ms? evp Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shirohniichan Posted November 22, 2002 Author Share Posted November 22, 2002 They had it listed as "MS-61." I'll have to dig out the catalog to see if they left any question as to whether it may have been proof. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shirohniichan Posted November 22, 2002 Author Share Posted November 22, 2002 BTW, I was almost positive I was going to be high bidder on the coin. I didn't know I'd be up against serious trade dollar collectors after this particular variety, so I figured nearly 5 times bid for the common variety '76-P would bring it home. I was underbidder at $1,650. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
EVillageProwler Posted November 22, 2002 Share Posted November 22, 2002 I paid $2.1K for mine from Keoj. He sold it to me at cost. I'd consider buying every II/II that looks like mine for that price all day long! EVP Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
shirohniichan Posted November 22, 2002 Author Share Posted November 22, 2002 I'd consider buying every II/II that looks like mine for that price all day long! You won't get many chances-- but I'm sure you know that! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...