greysheet monthly vs. blue sheet

[McKinley-migration]

just as an example.. in MS64 the 3 legged buffalo is listed in the monthly at $8k

 

in the blue sheet, they list a PCGS 64 at $6k.. and an NGC 64 at $4350

 

 

see what i'm getting at? how much is the coin worth... why are these numbers all over the place? i've always taken the monthly as 'law'.. now i'm just confused. can someone explain this to me please...

 

i can maybe see a PCGS/NGC difference (that much though?) but why is the monthly so out of whack?

[realone]

Here is my take. These are just guides and nothing more. If you find one that you want bad enough, you will only be able to obtain it if you meet the sellers asking price. A lot of dealer do follow these guides, and it seems auction bidding also goes along with these guides, but when an incredible specimen comes along then all bets are off and you will have to establish your own "got to have that coin" value in order to successfully acquire it. But as far as I am concerned price guides are just that, a simply generalized guideline that is based on practically nothing, you can do much more research of auction archives and other recent sales histories of retail asking prices on dealer websites if you happen to follow that stuff. It is a lot of work to do but the benefits are huge and at least you can trust your own efforts as opposed to the work of the many price guides.

[DaveG]

If you read their website, they explain that the Grey Sheet is for sight-seen transactions and the Blue Sheet is for sight-unseen transactions.

 

Therefore, the Blue Sheet price is supposed to be the lowest price that someone would pay for the least attractive coin in a particular slab, while the Grey Sheet price is supposed to be the price for a properly graded coin (raw or slabbed).

[Mozin]

This does not really speak to the thread topic, but after many years of relying on the greysheet, I now find it worthless for what I collect.

[McKinley-migration]

If you read their website, they explain that the Grey Sheet is for sight-seen transactions and the Blue Sheet is for sight-unseen transactions.

 

makes sense... or it at least is the new 'law' i guess. i always ignored the blue sheet, but i took a good look.. so here i am.

 

sorta like the blue book vs. the red book, but not really.. same idea though, to me at least.. situation vs situation pretty much. thank you

[James_OldeTowne]

Here is what you need to realize.

 

The greysheet lists prices for buying coins.

 

The bluesheet lists prices for buying slabs.

 

In other words, the greysheet is sight-seen, which means that it matters what the coin looks like.

 

The bluesheet is sight-UNseen, which means it does NOT matter what the coin looks like, or even what it really grades. ALL that matters is what the slab says.

[BillJones]

This does not really speak to the thread topic, but after many years of relying on the greysheet, I now find it worthless for what I collect.

 

Quite true ...

 

The Gray Sheet now works mostly for common date "widgets" that are traded in large quantities. Better dates and most especially scarce and rare coins often trade for far more even between dealers.

 

The Blue Sheet is useless in many ways. The prices there are for the coins that have poor eye appeal or are over graded in the slab. It can be of some help with generic coins in MS and PR 66 and 67 since the Gray Sheet usually does not provide prices for thse grades.

 

One thing I will tell you is that the Gray Sheet does keep things in perspective. Yes, you can't buy most really nice and scarce coins at Gray Sheet, BUT if a dealer is tells you that the going rate is three, four or five times the bids on the Gray Sheet BEWARE! He is either trying to put one over on you, or the market has become so over heated with speculators that collectors would be well advised to cool it for a while. This happened in the late 1970s.