• When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

Should I have this graded?

14 posts in this topic

I just picked up a 2000-P Proof Silver Eagle for pretty cheap. Deep Cam and I thnk a real shot at a PF70 Ultra Deep Cameo... should I have it graded?

 

 

Also, I'm not comfortable opening the original mint holder. The place across the street requires sending it in a 2 1/2" X 2 1/2" mylar flip. I'd hate to be the one to nick this "perfect" speciman.

 

 

Thoughts?

 

 

P.S. I didn't take a pic yet, sufice it to say it's flawless.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I know that NGC will accept proof sets in the original Mint holders, and does not charge a removal fee. As a matter of fact, they encourage their customers to send them in the holders to avoid the risk of damage when trying to extract them. I'm not sure if this same policy applies to the American Eagle capsules, but I would think that it does. Maybe one of the other members, here, has firsthand knowledge about this. If not, you could always post this question on "Ask NGC" and wait for their answer.

 

Chris

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I have sent in Proof A.S.E as well as A.G.E to have them graded at NGC. Just take out the capsule and put it inside the Mylar Holders. Then you put rubber bands arounf the Mylar holders to close them. If you staple etc the Mylar holders then they will charge you $1.00 per holder. There is no charge for removing them from the Mint plastic capsules.

 

 

Just make sure that each Mylar has the invoice number and line number that corresponds to the Submission form..

Link to comment
Share on other sites

when i send in if they came in "airtite" they get shipped in it and they dont charge extra.

 

and some1 asked if that would get spots! dont all sae get spots at one time or other.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Just FYI,

 

I don't know if it is still the same ATS but over the last couple of years I've sent about a dozen proof still in the mint capsule for grading. Never any problem nor any extra charge. I even asked for the capsules back and did receive them.

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Ok, I am not normally acronym impaired, but I see it on SO MANY of these message boards and it's driving me nuts:

 

What the heck is: ATS?

 

 

That said: The advice you were given is correct. NGC accepts the coins in the Mint capsules without issue. If you were to put them in a Mylar flip and staple it, then you get charged the buck. However, if you read their submission guidelines, they specifically say that the Mint capsules are perfectly fine. I like the idea of inserting the capsule INTO the Mylar flip -- very neat and organized.

 

Personally, I've stacked a bunch of capsules and wrapped those in a rubber band (or two or three). When you have 30 Silver Eagles at a time, it gets tedious otherwise.

 

Any coin can develop spots. I've seen Silver Eagles develop spots. Maple Leaf coins. Silver Brittanias -- all depends on packaging, storage, climate control, humidity, light exposure, etc. LEAST likely to develop spots in a professionally encapsulated slab from a third party grading service like NGC or PCGS, though not impossible, especially if improperly stored.

 

To get more bang for your buck on grading, do you have any other coins? If you don't have at least 5 coins, you're going to have to pay $30 for that one coin under the EarlyBird grading tier. (less a 10% discount for Collectors Society Members if you submit the coin using the online form).

 

If you have at least five coins that are say U.S. and 1955 - present, you may use the Modern Tier, and only pay $12.50 per coin, less 10%, also if you use the online form to submit the order, thus $56.25 (after discount) for FIVE coins. vs. $27 for one (after discount).

 

If you have 2008 Proof Eagles, there is also the option of Early Release Designation at the Modern Special Tier, also a 5-coin minimum (and special label falls into this category, such as First Year of Issue -- for 1971 Ikes, 1979 SBA, 2006 Gold Buffalo, 1986 Silver Eagle, etc.) NGC has a list of acceptable coins. These are $15 per coin, still a bargain by comparison to the $30 for one at EarlyBird, and with the discount, $67.50 for 5 coins with "special labels" -- both Early Releases and First Year of Issue tend to be desirable labels to some collectors, so a nominal charge up front can pay off, and they're attractive.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

keep it in the original capsule

 

let the coin stand on its own merits

 

ten years from now if the coin is still in your collection and still looks perfectly flawless with no toning or spots then send in the coin

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks for all the good advice. I have not had anything graded by NGC. I have joined the "Platinum" level at the other place. Do I have to join NGC to use their service? I do have at least 5 other coins to send in.

 

 

Doesn't the milk spot problem exclusively affect MS examples? I have seen it many times on MS but never on one of my proof eagles.

 

 

To the other poster who suggested waiting for 10 years, again the milk spot problem I have seen is usually a very quick thing. This is a 2000 isue and I think unlikely to develop at this point, don't you agree?

 

 

I'll be honest, I only want to send this one in because the price for PF70 UDC is ridiculously high. I'm in this coin $30 and it looks like a PF70 would go for a minimum of around $400, perhaps much higher, on Ebay in a quick sale. I've seen a few go as high as $700. That would allow me to buy another 20 or more ASE. I'm just putting them away for the silver investment.

 

 

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites

when i send to get graded i dont even count ms70 into picture. if i get a 70 im lucky and happy but if i send thinking its a 70 and it comes back lower im disapointed. or if its to low i just spent what it is worth getting it graded.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Options to submit coins to NGC:

 

1. Pay to be a member of their Collector's Society: and it included 10% online submitting discount and a coupon for 5 free early bird submissions, so at the higher-cost grading tier, the membership practically pays for itself, though if you wouldn't have ordinarily used that tier, not so much.

 

2. ANA members can submit coins to NGC, as a benefit of their membership. So, if you are already a paid ANA member, you can submit coins without joining, but no 10% discount, and no tracking online, a little give and take, but depending on how many coins you plan to submit over the year, like if you only plan to submit 5 modern-tier coins, then this could be the way to go for an ANA member. ANA members get a FREE submission account number here: http://www.ngccoin.com/ana_welcome.asp

 

3. eBay members can also submit coins to NGC as a benefit, with a 10% discount, though at this time I can't find a link that specifies that the 10%. No online tracking, I don't think so anyway, but the 10% discount is super -- for fun I went through the motions of submitting an invoice using the eBay submission form link, and it indicates that "The 10% discount on grading tiers will be reflected in Step 4 of this form" so it appears that the 10% discount still applies for eBay members.

Ebay members submit coins to NGC: http://www.ngccoin.com/ebay_ngcvalue.cfm

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Its really hard to get a PF70. I sent in Proof Eagles from 1986 to 2006 and all graded at PF69 and one a PF68. I sent in 5 $5.00 A.G.E and 4 came back as PF69 and one at PF70.

 

 

I had the Original set of the 20 Anniversary .A.S.E. that I got from the U.S.Mint at about $100.00 The Reverse Proof turned out to be PF70 nad the other two were MS69 and PF69.

 

 

If he is sure that it is a PF 70 then send it in. Just don't be disppointed if it is PF69. He could join for $99.00 and send in four more coins with the free voucher and enjoy the rest of the benefits and there would be no real cost.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Keep in mind , if even , dust or any other unknown particle falls upon the dies or planchete before or during the striking process.... and the newly struck coin in question has the simplest micro dot of shiny surface , on the surfaces that were supposed to be cameo...(tilt it back an forth and look for a pin-pric shiny spot on the cameo part)...the best it normally will get is a 69 vs 70 (Cam DCAM UCAM aside) .

I have only one PR70 UCAM with such micro-dot shiny spot out of all the ones that I own , and it was probably missed .

The same seems to apply to the shiny surfaces that have even the slightest pin-point dot where it should not be on the surface .

There are many grading tips and standards in place , but this is just one killer for the magic 70 number that gets over-looked after the centering and strike , lack of lines , etc are taken into consideration on these modern mint products whose grades average and hover around the 69/70 mark .It's the little things that get ya on these.

This is not the only factor , but just one that a lot of people miss with modern submissions while seeking 70s .

 

Link to comment
Share on other sites