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Trying out my new camera. What do you think? Beware!lots of pics.

43 posts in this topic

 

So... anybody want to talk about setting image file parameters - file types, pixel counts, compression ratios, and similarly geeky stuff? Being an old-school, some-time journalism and wedding photographer who grew up with film, I come to digital with an obsession for image quality. I simultaneously record each shot in a 15 Mb NEF and a 5 Mb jpeg file. Figuring out how best to dial down the pixel resolution, set the image dimensions, set the file compression, etc,. for specific uses, are another work in progress for me.

 

I'll go there with you, and I'll bet you can predict my response if you've been paying attention:

 

I only capture RAW (NEF) files in the highest resolution with no compression and all settings, other than white balance, to normal/off.

 

My web files are saved as 8 bit JPG files with the lowest compression at around 800 pixels square, but that's more a function of keeping my hosting bills down than anything else.

 

:)

The first time I shot anything in RAW (NEF) was a flower. The way it popped out from the screen, I knew I was in photo-nerd heaven. It was almost - ALMOST - enough to make me want to toss my film gear and shooting stock.

 

What kind of file sizes do you typically get with that last set of specs? I'd like to develop some routine "cookbook" steps and settings pegged to being a bit below the 200k limit here.

 

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I actually bought one of those $20 clamp lights that have a magnifying glass in the middle and a small flourescent ring type bulb that goes all the way around. I took the Mag glass out. I can just lower my camera into the middle and it does great for proofs also. This was taken thru this set-up.

SEundermilkjug-1.jpg

 

That's what I love about this place - get the ball rolling and the great ideas and suggestions just come pouring in. I've seen those advertised but at $20 the lens can't be all that good and one of my few self-indulgences is good optics. Life's too short to go through it with eyestrain.

 

But it never dawned on me to toss the lens and convert it to an inexpensive ring light. Nice!

 

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What kind of file sizes do you typically get with that last set of specs? I'd like to develop some routine "cookbook" steps and settings pegged to being a bit below the 200k limit here.

 

The JPGs are typically around 400k. A pic a little more than 550 pixels square should be roughly 200k using the same settings.

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Here's another topic for discussion -- have you tried HDR (i.e. multiple shots combined to produce more dynamic range than the camera is capable of showing) or other methods of getting higher dynamic range into your photographs?

 

I've wanted to play around, but just haven't gotten to it...

 

Anyone?

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Here's another topic for discussion -- have you tried HDR (i.e. multiple shots combined to produce more dynamic range than the camera is capable of showing) or other methods of getting higher dynamic range into your photographs?

 

I've wanted to play around, but just haven't gotten to it...

 

Anyone?

 

Don't think I've ever heard of what you're talking about here Mike.

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Here's another topic for discussion -- have you tried HDR (i.e. multiple shots combined to produce more dynamic range than the camera is capable of showing) or other methods of getting higher dynamic range into your photographs?

 

I've wanted to play around, but just haven't gotten to it...

 

Anyone?

 

Don't think I've ever heard of what you're talking about here Mike.

 

I think he means superimposing two versions (layers) of the same image, where one has been shot with less exposure to maximize highlight detail and the second was made with more exposure to bring out shadow detail. You put them in separate layers of the image and superimpose them. Between the two you get an image with better highlights and better shadows than you could have gotten from one shot or one layer (more dynamic range).

 

This goes back to film days - "pin registering" two negatives or slides before printing, but it's a LOT easier on the computer. I haven't tried it yet because I'm still going up the learning curve on more basic techniques but it will be interesting to see if it is as useful for coins as it is in general photography.

 

 

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Here's another topic for discussion -- have you tried HDR (i.e. multiple shots combined to produce more dynamic range than the camera is capable of showing) or other methods of getting higher dynamic range into your photographs?

 

I've wanted to play around, but just haven't gotten to it...

 

Anyone?

 

I'm familiar with the technique, although I haven't tried it. I'm thinking it has real potential for reverse Proofs, which are a bear for me to get right.

 

Just for the record, here's the ASE I posted earlier, unretouched. It's not my coin, so even though the specks I removed would probably either rinse or blow off the coin, I was not going to touch it. The two breaks in the matte on the obverse - one above the breast and one in the leaves - are the only detracting marks I could see anywhere on this coin. It's as close to a true 70 as anything I've seen.

 

IMG_0040b.JPG

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Here's some info on the HDR/HDRI technique, for those interested:

 

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/HDRI

 

http://www.cybergrain.com/tech/hdr/

 

http://hdr101.com/

 

Here's a well known software package that does it, including links to a demo copy of their software:

 

http://www.hdrsoft.com/

 

They also have a great FAQ on the topic:

 

http://www.hdrsoft.com/resources/dri.html

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I seen a lot of Canon 5D's being used for those photos, but I must say that is impressive. I think I'll try shooting in raw format, just for the heck of it. P.S. after I get a decent tripod/copy stand and a Grey sheet.

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