Harry’s Collection

The 1886? Or 1885? What’s ur grade #. I’ll telL what 4x coin dealers told me at a coin show during the summer. I just literally shoved in their face & did not give them much time. I wanted their initial reaction. Then, I let them look at it some more & they didn’t change their grade gues

Just saw this, we agree on Enders, but as I had posted a 23 yr old ender, obviously early stages as yellow is typical the first color progression aka target toning, but coin albums do this too usually, but not always. but, maybe it wasn’t you but I think you said the Morgan looks like an ender, which doesn’t coincide with what you posted in this comment, but I posted an ender. So again, how is the 1885 anything like an ender when there is no “Ring”?

First, I am new to the UI/UX of the NGC forum layout, so I apologize if I don’t reply back to the correct person question or make duplicate replies.

I’m sorry I must of not read your post clearly. Or I read someone else’s very similar that was deleted

You have never saved any of the photos of these coins in 2x2’s? Or have a photo of these rolls? Like if they’re in a safety deposit box, wouldn’t u at least take a photo of the contents, for insurance purposes? But I sold most of them, takes a million years to go thru one by one.

No just 2! Please reread the revised OP. This is weird.

Agree, I’m new here, but I rather spend 60+ hours a week & finish reading books from the likes of David Bowers before I start chiming in. Btw, off and on 15 years of collecting. not hard to take a photo with even an old smart phone of an ender. Here I’ll show you, from the US mint, placed immediately in an air tight plastic tube. tell me how the 1885 Morgan looks anything like an ender?

Again, seeing is believing. Post a photo of your BU rolls top View & the ender view & preferable the ender coin in a 2x2.

Please post some photos? Seeing is believing, sir

I wish someone else knew the answer to this because I’m either freaking out since I did NOT request prescreen nor am I an elite member to opt for this service. The receiving dept took it upon herself to out into prescreen. I’m freaking out — reread the revised original post edited earlier. So 4 questions: *For those that have first hand experience & especially anyone currently having coins being processed please comment. -*Include the total number of coins in your submission. • Has anyone here declared a value of $25-100k amount & then it went straight to receiving to schedule to be graded? (No Prescreen requested on their submission form) • Has anyone non elite members, ever had their coin sent to prescreen eval without being notified? • For the elite membership people, on avg how long does it take for that prescreen to finish? -*You chose Walkthrough service? Include # of coins. • Has anyone here ever had someone from receiving suggest or even submit your submission to prescreen without informing beforehand and you are NOT an elite member? *Side note.. for those who go off topic about this or that, post a photo of your own coin, so all of us can at least see what your referring too.

Disagree, how many rolls have you cracked? Authentic rolls that are at least 20 yrs old? Since you deviated the focal point of this post, I choose not to provide a photo of what an ender looks like not and not elaborate.

Go back to the top, of the post, I added 2 more pics. I don’t recall what type of lighting I was surrounded by, again the coin is in the received stage. But it’s taking a LONG time.

Please share a photo of a rolled ended coin? Looks like you edited your post as you said it looks like a an ender. This is an ender.

This coin appears to have a diagonal scratch on Liberty jaw. You have to understand one thing from my research the mint never wanted a perfect smooth coin for circulation to avoid counterfeits. However proofs are handled by hand & use a different polish & attributes to distinguish them from business.

Really look at 1881-S

Did you not read about the guy that said “It’s artificial because one side is not toned & the other side is?”

I agree…. I only posted the Mercury dime because I submitted that with the 1885 Morgan. I only posted the quarter because someone said “Your Morgan is artificial because the toning is too balanced or evenly distributed”. Sorry for not including his username as a reply, didn’t want to embarrass him too much. Since this quarter was supposedly graded MS66 by PCGS, but it was “stolen/lost”. I won’t mention the coin dealers name. He did admit to it. In fact I should delete this post, but will keep it up for those to learn one thing, don’t trust. Take a lot of pics & be polite.

So I too am ready to close this post… The title is completely getting off topic. I was hopeful ppl would comment one word. “MS#”. Then, I was hopeful others would share there photos as well. But instead, all I am getting is negative insults. I don’t have time to teach “Debbie downers” about toning. Like the guy who posted something like “Artificial toning because the Morgan has a nearly solid color tone”. But I felt inclined to provide this coin, which did get graded MS66, really don’t know, that what the dealer told me but when I picked it up, it wasn’t there. *But when he first called me about it, boy he was excited “YOUR COIN ISN’t AN ERROR! I’m thinking “I didn’t say it was nor did I select error service eval, again I cracked it from a special mini roll from the mint”. —————————————————-Like the last member, I think I might take this post down. No one is doing one simple task providing just 4 character MS##. The post didn’t ask for why you hate it, if you disagree it’s MS - okay I guess you know more than 5x coin dealers at the coin show I was at theirs last summer. So just say AU58, if you think those dealers who spend $25,000+ to have a convention booth are “blind”. I’m sure this is how dealers make money, buying quality coins from ppl who sell gems at spot price. As soon as the results come in, this post is deleted, unless members stick to the intent. Give a number & if you can share your own coin. Let’s all be respectful. In addition, we can all learn from this and be like “How come JohnnyXYZ got MS66 & I got MS62?” So let’s try to help each other people otherwise I see no reason for me to spend my precious time taking photos & trying to do side by side with top pops. As for those who request more photos of angels, how about you post first. This takes time & no one is paying me. Again, the goal of this post has evolved to help us members. Once again, If it continues to be bombarded by amateur remarks “AU bc blah blah” *Well clearly you didn’t read about me showing it to prominent dealers at coin shows comparing it with their 1885-O MS67.5 (PCGS). Thank you.

1). Luster/Cartwheel (more on this later) 2). The Rim & Reed (most neglect the reed in my opinion) 3) The devices high points: 4) The date: near, far or regular date (helps attribute the vam) 5) Surface condition (more on this later) 6) Devices details, how well struck 7) Inspecting for polishing lines/markers in the ear lobe, legend, between hairlines - for starters 8) Toning/Luster, do they look natural? Strength of luster regarding the degree of toning & its “aging”. Ex: I have tons of Us mint rolls state quarters not from the bank by from the mint. Given their clad & we’re talking about Silver, a bit different. But, I have cracked rolls (directly from the mint), where the toning has ranged from bright blinding reflection (red/purple, yellow & usually “smokey gray). Some of those are darker toned but have more luster, why I can only guess for *At least one reason, the grease on the dies sometimes are more or less. (I think this because I’ve cracked a roll of 15/20 quarters but to find only “Struck thru grease”. For those that don’t know what that is, sometimes the Mint will accidentally have an excess amount of grease on the dies, too much and the coin becomes very “different”. ****Now this brings up another question, how does a TPG decide if a coin is MS 67 vs MS 64 without knowing the amount of “grease”? *In the same roll, I’ve found quarters that are not struck thru grease errors & have a very dull luster. Which tells me, the employee was like “Oh oh, too much grease, gotten remove it (however it is they do that). So question how does a coin get a fair score? I’m under the impression the moment the coin is ejected from the die hubs, they should all be MS 69/70 for it is original in that condition. Think about proofs, how since they are handled individually with care. But not all proofs get a 70 even though they are individually handled & inspected 2x - then sent in those nice boxes (suck as modern silver eagles). MS coins since history claims the employees would use shovels to load up a wheel barrel & transport to XYZ…. Obviously when PCGS (YouTube) says a “MS 69 is truly one in a million”. 1881-S has 2x MS69 & with a mintage of 12.7 million. So does that mean there are 12 possible MS69 in total out there for 1881-S? I believe so, since that year is perhaps the “king of craftsmanship” for the Morgan series from San Fran. My referencing PCGS & one of David Bowers books, I don’t remember which one I read, have several. *Though, I’m not saying there is a MS69 per 1 million minted Morgan’s, just elaborating on PCGS’s statement (that could easily be a play on words & not an actual statistical formula). But one can argue, 1921 Morgan’s have like 44 million, but there is no MS68 (PCGS). Of course each mint had different employees & etc…. But back to the point I made above, are we grading coins as they are ejected from the hubs or are we potentially bias in some form or another and perhaps unaware of how much “grease” was present at that moment for that coin. *Another side note, I once submitted a coin here it is…. Came from an original U.S. mint roll sealed etc. I had an authorized dealer submit o my behalf to a TPG. When it finally came back, the dealer said, “it’s not an error” perhaps he thought it was a missing clad or fake. But I didn’t tell him I knew it was 100% authentic & original tone. It graded MS66, I think. Well I don’t know for sure, he “lost it”, well he did a bait switch. I got him to confess to it after I kept pressing him for more info & his story fell apart. I didn’t press charges because I’m friends with friends of him. He got lucky…. We needed up settling on small amount. So lesson learned, take photos lots of photos…. update, I just called about my submission, the rep said the receiving manager is going to email today about my submission. Must be good news. I have a feeling I’ll be subject to a 1% FMV? Why else did she send it into Prescreen (I didn’t ask for this). But she said, because your coins are very valuable.

Now moving forward 1). Here is a reverse of a Mercury dime that was submitted with the 1885, delivered/signed Oct 20. Friday, receiving dept. confirmed acceptance. ——————————— Regarding my submission. The following day, I got a phone call from the receiving department manager Oct 21st, yup we got it (Friday). Monday, Thursday & Friday I contact them for my status says “no record”. All reps told me my order was sent to “Prescreen”. At that time I didn’t know what that meant, but was told by the reps “The manager felt due to the high value of your coins we decided to send it to prescreen, basically she hinted they’re outstanding & said something like my insurance amount should be higher, uh ok. *So let’s hope it’s does grade really high, since they sent it to prescreen when I’m not even an Elite member nor did I select that option. The manager said “The coins are very valuable, so we’re going to take extra time on it”. I just noticed it is finally got accepted on Friday, I checked around 2:30pm Friday. So I assume it should be processed quickly within the next day. **Oddly, just checked it’s still “just received”. I also noticed it didn’t change since Friday around 2pm, when I checked them as well. **Long time for a Walkthrough timeframe. I hope they're taking photos since I paid the extra $18 for PhotoVision+

I’m not gonna respond back to many of others comments…. Rather not say anymore until it gets graded. I will say, some comments are…“helpful” Okay, next coin. How about this one…. I’ll continue to post more of my coins.. But for now on, I will update only obverses, later on reverses in a random order. This way people won’t become bias on the rarity of the year/mint. However some years will be obvious, such as 1921. *For now on, I’ll be taking photos of coins in my car in ambient sunlight so we can all have an idea of lighting, not direct, unless I state using a specific light bulb etc. what is your grade. *Again, for is one ambient sunlight around 2-5 pm.

As for those wanting to see the denticles of Vam 32, check out Google, apparently this is a super rare vam. Anyways, I don’t have the coin right now as it is currently at NGC. But this is what I can provide without spending too much time looking at my 1,000’a of photos & I get lost & confused. I really hate how iPhone photo albums seem to play around with the dates of photos , I’d you own an iPhone, you understand. Disclaimer, when I first got this coin long ago, with a 5x loupe the 8,8,5 in the denticles we’re one of the first things I noticed. *But I don’t have time to sift their my 25,000+ camera roll to find that one upclose shot, will do so when the coin comes back slabbed I fan you guys wish. But this is what I can provide (4.8mb is the size limit for uploads). Also, I had over expose this photo to help see it. It is angled so it won’t look exactly like the reference online. *keep in mind vamworld says this is a ultra rare one, so there could be like 32b or whatever, I recall finding more numbers in the denticles when I first found it.

I guess my photography skills are not that great or our smartphones/monitors project different imagery. Sorry to disappoint everyone.

I’ll just say this, I was at coin show and ask a dealer at his booth to show me his top graded coins he had on him. He showed me 2x 1885-O’s that were 67.5 via PCGS & he was jealous of this coin.