EagleRJO

I saw this copper token listed (CT# 571374) which at first appeared to just have some stains, but there are darker areas where I think there may be more significant damage and missing metal like at 9 o'clock, 11 o'clock, below some stars and at the date. Maybe even all the way through in 2 of those spots depending on the turn. I'm not that familiar with copper deterioration, as tokens I have are typically brass and I don't collect old copper coins, so I figured I would post it to see what others thought. Is that possibly what is left after "verdigris" is removed? Also as an aside, it's listed as a "Civil War token" but doesn't have anything to do with the war. I have seen the same wording used with other tokens so I figure it's some kind of marketing gimmick as it really is just Civil War "era" with the date.

Just curious as to why ask for the edge pic with a 2008 quarter, which would be struck on a Cu-Ni clad planchet, which has surface damage of the outer clad layer exposing the copper core?

Concerning what are acceptable contact marks for a coin and grade I would reference the Official ANA Grading Standards, 7th Edition for that specific coin, and not what may or may not be acceptable for other coins. It does vary depending on the coin.

No comment on "business strike coins", which I threw in there just for you!

For reference it is pretty easy to do a basic side-by-side comparison as an initial check of a coin per the suggestion by RWB, which is one of the first things I do when considering any raw coin after looking into the seller info. Just go to a NGC or PCS$ webpage that has pics of a legit coin, like the NGC price or variety guides or PCG$ CoinFacts. For US coins I typically just go the the CoinFacts pics (can also use for grade), but with this coin you can look at the pics with the NGC World Coin Price Guide for a "Great Britain Sovereign 2010 Proof" ... https://www.ngccoin.com/price-guide/world/great-britain-sovereign-km-1002-2009-2011-cuid-43200-duid-425954 Displaying each side in split screen can be pretty revealing sometimes.

The blemish doesnt look like a scratch, it looks more like a contact mark or ding which you typically have on most business strike coins. Also you can take decent coin pics with most phones if you center, square up and move in closer to the coin (helps auto focus), and rest your hand on something like books to steady the phone.

There is a market for them, although typically not of much value with some exceptions, and several token collectors associations including TAMS and NTCA. I find some interesting enough to add one occasionally if I come across something I like and it's not much money, like the one I posted above which was around $10. I think the database JustBob was referring to with links is called Richards Token Database ... https://tokencatalog.com/

Modern day Get Smart shoe phone?

The last one is an old "saloon token" which were distributed to get customers into a particular establishment, where they would presumably make other purchases ... like an all day happy hour. https://discover.hubpages.com/games-hobbies/Unusual-Hobbies-Collecting-Antique-Saloon-Tokens I have some of the older tokens which reference my home state, like the attached ...

If it seems too good to be true ...

Funny thing is that's an actual city in new Mexico. https://www.torcnm.org/

Thanks LDH, it makes sense now seeing the label as to how there was a grade change with the same cert number.

I'm not sure what the op meant by "mint damage". Did someone bury it in a planter pot at the mint's front office?

I just order everything on Amazon since prices are comparable and its simple, or I go to Wizard Coin Supply. The slabs and capsules I use are acrylic clear plastic, not glass. I don't know if they are even available in glass, but I wouldn't use that since they would be fragile, and part of the protection is impact resistance. I don't use the double pocket vinyl or mylar coin flips due to something called "flip rub" possibly happening, or the cardboard flips since I don't trust that the plastic wont eventually stick to the coins the way old pvc ones did even though it is suppose to be safe. If I get a coin in a flip, which dealers seem to prefer, I put it in a slab or capsule.

For aftermarket slabs I prefer the PCCB brand which seem a bit more robust, while still being easy-open and matching the NGC slabs in the collection. As long as you are not in a rush these generally come from overseas, so it takes a little while to get them, but I think it's worth it due to the quality. Except for the Presidential and Innovation dollars which I keep in capsule binders, I pretty much leave the modern US mint coins in the OGP.

I am at a complete loss for words. You buy a raw gold coin from a "dealer" which turns out to be fake. Then you keep in touch with this "dealer", and are surprised that a raw $200k value coin if real (red flag right there) they are offering to sell for $25k turns out to also be a fake? You just cant make this stuff up!

I used to hunt plethora as a kid too ... go figure!

Add to that the advent of very inexpensive usb scopes, much to the chagrin of @VKurtB, and all of a sudden you have a plethora of "errors" being found.

Nice find! Roll hunting?

@SandonI don't think the op's coin was struck thru grease. That would just wipe out or blur portions of the coin such as the attached examples, possibly with some discoloration, and would not likely create the granular or popcorn like surface appearance that the subject coin has in many areas. https://www.error-ref.com/struck-through-smooth-viscous-material-grease-oil/ Simply since the coin does not have a diameter or weigh significantly less than the mint specs does not mean the coin was not exposed to a corrosive element, even though that is an indicator for that type of damage. There are tolerances on the diameters and weights for coins, so there can be some loss of metal and still have a coin measure close to the mint specs, and there does not appear to be a substantial loss of metal with most of the coin's details still present. Definitely looks like the end result of a home brewed science project, exposing the coin to some type of acid or corrosive element for a short period of time as I previously indicated in the original topic for this coin.

@Sandon the attached are the GSA holders I am aware of, which except for the soft pack are sealed and not easily opened without damaging the holder. Understood now what you meant by "cull" GSA coin before. To me it means a very poor condition coin you might find in an LCS jar, so I did a double take.

Coin Coffins or Slab Coffins ⚰️

https://www.error-ref.com/acid-shrunk-coins/

You are dating either yourself or your coin collection ... not sure which.

Not sure what you mean by "culled out"' Do you mean replace the coin, because even the mixed mark holders (attached) were sealed/glued closed, although not completely tamper resistant.