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pogohatesme

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Posts posted by pogohatesme

  1. 3 hours ago, kbbpll said:

    Maybe you're looking at another grading service. One seems to use "1878-S  $1" and another "1878-S   $". For trade dollars, NGC uses "T$1". Those also overlapped with gold dollars. Maybe in the morning someone more knowledgeable will weigh in. Regardless, the mint mark designation would be next to the date, not the denomination. Your holder is fine.

    Thank you much. I just want.to be sure that I am looking at and understanding it all correctly. And also in the event I ever decide to sell this coin, I didn't want someone else thinking there was something hinky.

  2. Ok so I am a bit confused. I have this Morgan that had previously been graded and slabbed by NGC. The part that has me confused is on the label. Is shows 1889 S$1. It is showing a S mint mark however the coin itself, nor when I check the cert verification, does it have a mint mark. Only shows it on the label. And in my.limited understanding, if the coin does not have a mm, then there should not be one on the label. Out of curiosity I checked ebay and found 1 other similar to this. Same year even. But any other from the same year, if no mm on the coin, no mm on the label. So I am wondering if there is something fishy going on with this? A simply oversight? Should I post this in the ASK NGC section? Just want others takes as you all know I have very limited knowledge of most of this. TIA

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  3. 35 minutes ago, Coinbuf said:

    As you said there is no such thing as average to be expected.  Having said that anything between PR65 to PR69, with or without the CAM or UCAM designation is possible.  Just a side note the set you have in the photo the cent would not grade CAM or UCAM without a bath to remove the haze.  Only talking about the cents now; the real question is why would you bother, if you have the type 1 coins you will never be able to recoup the cost to have these graded unless you hit the lottery and get a PF70 UCAM (very low pop).  If you have the type 2 coins you would need at least PR68 UCAM to break even, side note PR69 UCAM is the highest grade in the pop report (again I'm talking about cents here).  If you need one for a set that's graded and slabbed your better off buying one already graded than spending the monies to submit, but its your dime so do as you wish.

    Actually that photo is just one that I got off the net. Mine are all put up and didn't want to dig them out for a general idea.  I honestly do not know if I have a type 1 or 2 sets. I have not looked that closely, yet. I also do not know if I will break them up. I am mulling around a lot of different things and that is just 1 of the thoughts. I do appreciate the feedback and input it does help.

  4. Hey all, this may be kind of a stupid question but I am going to ask anyhow. I have 4 of these type sets in the hard plastic. From what I have gathered they came from the mint this way. My question is, if I were to break the set up into individual coins, what could I reasonably expect them to be graded at? I realize there could be variables and I am not asking for a specific grade as I am not posting each individual coin. Just looking for some input like " You could expect to get a grade of PF66 - PF69" or something to that effect. If that makes sense haha. Being new to all this, personally I am thinking they should grade at a 67 or higher. But again, I am new, and do realize there could still be variables. TIA

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  5. 13 hours ago, Terence:) said:

    The only thing going for you to possibly send this in is if it were one of the five VAM's  that are either Top 100 or Hot 50 designations. While it is doubtful this one is ....  if you like to do research you could investigate. While the pics aren't very detailed and  I don't see anything that pops out to me you could still take a look on Vamworld.

    http://www.vamworld.com/wiki/1884-P_VAMs

    Thanks for the link. Might come I  handy with a couple other Morgans I have also!

  6. 6 minutes ago, JKK said:

    No problem. Odds are the reverse legend is as described. You won't make out much of the obverse legend; look for shape of the bust, which looks draped and cuirassed, right. By that era, they no longer made much effort to engrave a legit likeness of the Augustus.

    Actually if you don't mind, when looking through some of them, the reverse looks to me like Emporer dragging captive as opposed to the description above. I just want to make sure I am looking at this right.

  7. @JKK yeah I wonder about the difficulty in ID'ing it and sorry for not thinking about the weight and diameter. 

    Unfortunately I do not have a scale to weigh it, but holding it and a  1941 Mercury dime in hand, the Ancient coin feels a tad less..if that helps. The diameter is 17.35 mm ( to my unskilled best of measuring). 

  8. If this is the wrong section for this thread I apologize. I wasn't really sure if I should post here or the Ancient Coin section. I received this in a 2x2 and the only detail written on it is 'Ancient Rome". I have no clue where to begin even attempting to look this up as there are so many. I know there is a glare in the pictures but I had to use the flash to be able to get any kind of detail for you all. To me, this is in really rough shape and probably.bot even worth the 2x2 it came in. But then again being new what do I know? Hahaha. 

    So what is the deal with this coin if anyone can tell? What coin is it? Is it worth anything? Worth holding on to? Thanks for the help once again.

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  9. 8 hours ago, Kirt said:

    I think you're about right on grade; I do see what looks like wear so AU.

    As to your thinking on sending in, it totally depends on what you are trying to achieve, and if you're playing with disposable income versus treating it like an investment. The reason most folks don't send in coins like this is that the value of the coin would be eaten up by the cost of grading and encapsulating it. Let's be generous and say the coin straight grades AU 58, so according to NGC price guides is valued at $47.50. Let's also be really generous and say that you were given the coin so your investment in it is $0. Sending it in via economy tier is $22 plus shipping both ways - call it another $20 in total, or $42 to get it graded.

    Now let's be incredibly generous and say you've got a buyer at the NGC price guide price. The coin in its current airtite cost you nothing, so you made $47.50. Enjoy that burger & beer! But if you had it graded & slabbed, you have to take out the $42 - so you've made $3.50. Enjoy your Starbucks espresso.

    Of course the real world doesn't work like the one I just described; you've got money sunk in the coin already, buyers always pay under price guides, and I went best case on grading. You can see how a coin that is worth a little bit now would very quickly turn into something you'd end up selling at a loss. Would it be easier to sell a graded coin? Yes, of course...if it straight grades. It's your thinking and your money so therefore your choice - some folks like the assurance that they can sell it quickly, some folks like all their coins in the same little boxes - it's up to you what that's all worth!

    Thanks for the reply. I understand and agree with all that was said. My thought process is just being able to possibly get more for the coin with it being graded as opposed to just saying the grade is whatever. I just wanted to see if there was something I was missing in my thoughts.

  10. I doubt the opinions will change and that is perfectly fine, but thought I would give it ago and took some more pictures. Personally I think these are better. There is still a bit of a glare but not as much. I read a response on another thread that gave a link to grading Morgans. After reviewing that, personally I can see an AU or possibly MS61 grade. Would I be to far off on that? 

    Also, it is currently slabbed in just a generic airtite. I know most of the people on here don't feel it's worth sending in unless the coin currently has that value. I am leaning towards possibly sending in that way it's already graded and ready whenever down the road if I decided to get rid of it. Is my thought process wrong about that? 

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  11. 1 hour ago, Greenstang said:

    It looks genuine, maybe been cleaned. Hard to give a grade with the reflection on the pictures but if it was in AU condition, it would probably be worth 35-40 dollars.

    Thanks. It is slabbed and that was part of another reason it kind of concerned me. It came from a lot sale and any other coin that came with it that is slabbed is graded, even if by a basement slabbed. But this one isn't. And given the apparent condition, just had me wondering. 

    I do understand and agree on the reflection and apologize. 

  12. Looking through my coins I came across this Morgan. Being novice and quite skeptical it looks a little to clean to me. There are some abrasions on the cheek, and a few others around the coin, but nothing I would consider too major. And also like stated it's quite clean. I thought maybe it had polished or something but I don't see anything that would give that indication. I do not have a scale to weigh either. What are ya'lls thoughts? If it is real, what grade and value would you put on it? Sorry if my pics aren't very good. I used the Cozy Magnifier app and they were taken at 3x. They looked a lot better when I first took them. TIA

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  13. Ok, my question don't pertain to value or authenticity per say so I won't waste everyone's time posting pics for ya'll to scour over haha. I have 2, 2016 Kennedy half dollars that appear to have been gold plated. One is a P and the other D mint mark ( if that matters ). From what I can ascertain, much like the gold plated Silver Eagle I posted a few days ago, the gold plating does nothing for the coin in fact diminishes it. Would that be correct? At least with the Silver Eagle, it is silver and still worth melt. But what about these Kennnedy's since they are not silver? Would they even still be considered "legal tender"? I know that sounds stupid, but hey...never said I was smart :). 

  14. Hi All, with the condition this coin is in and plenty were minted I realize it's probably not worth more than a dollar or 2. Looking at it though the MM looks odd to me. And being new to this it is probably just me, but wanted to check what others think. Is it legit? Also just your opinion, what grade would you give it? TIA

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  15. 3 hours ago, Greenstang said:

    The red trim indicates they were made at the Denver Mint

    The light blue (earlier years) and the dark blue (later years) indicate they were made at the Philadelphia Mint

    I suspected that to be that case but wasn't sure. Thank you.

  16. 2 minutes ago, KarenHolcomb said:

    @pogohatesme Idk the significance of the color strips but from what I understand people tend to want the coins from Mint Sets to complete their collections because they are truly uncirculated but not Proofs. So there may be a premium on many of them. I have Also read that the old cellophane packaging can cause the coins surfaces to pit or cause the coins to become foggy looking which isn't very pretty. I won't swear to it but I believe the coins would be better served if taken out of the cellophane and put into individual flips and would likely be worth more as individual Coins as opposed to as a set. But that is just my opinion. Currently the 92 Set values at $9. Individually, depending in the condition you could get as little $20 or as much as into the 1000's of dollars. I mean the pic isn't good enough for me to attempt a grade on any of the coins, but like I said people like the uncirc Coins for their collections. 

    After I posted I saw that too about the cellophane package being an issue at times. I had not really thought about separating them with the possibility of a higher value. My collecting has always been more about what I come across, what I like, and mostly just what has been given to me lol. It's never really been much about "flipping" for profit. I've never really spent much time researching a lot of it especially the storage of coins/paper. Until now that is. Which was where my questions kind of came from. Talking flips I have no idea lol. Ye I know my pics aren't the best and I apologize. In this instance it was more just to show what I was talking about as opposed to an actual grade/value. I do appreciate all them help you all have given. It is much appreciated.

  17. I have 4 of these type sets. Not sure if it matters, but 2 have the red trim, 1 has a dark blue/purple trim, and 1 light blue. Since I dont think they are very valuable as of now ( from what I looked up anyhow), the question is what should I do with them? I could just leave them as is, but I worry just being in the flimsy plastic it will tear open.

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