Sandon

Although I don't actively collect non-U.S. coins, I'll offer an opinion on this "Jubilee Head" British half-crown based upon my experience with U.S. grading standards. The coin has some abrasions and apparent luster disturbance on the high points, as well as some hairlining in the fields. The luster also seems to be somewhat "washed out", perhaps by "dipping" in an anti-tarnish solution, although it is difficult to assess luster based on a single photo and without being able to see the coin oneself. Based upon what I can see, I would give the coin a grade range of AU 58 to MS 62.

1883 "No Cents" Liberty nickel, PCGS graded PR64 CAM with a green "CAC" sticker. Not really cameoed, though: Photos courtesy of Stacks Bowers Galleries, from whom I bought this coin in 2020.

Notice all the attention you're getting now that your topic has been moved to the correct forum. If you're not a serious collector such as one who wants to build online "registry sets",, I don't know why you would want to have any of these coins third-party graded. They're doing quite well in that nice old (Library of Coins?) album, in which I assume they have resided for decades. Just be careful that they are seated below the top plastic slide before you pull it out, so the coins don't get devaluing "slide marks". Hold them only by their edges. Even if you wanted to sell them, it would make more sense to let the dealer bear the expense and risk of submitting them to a grading service. Even advanced collectors and dealers often get unpleasant surprises when coins are returned with lower grades than they expected or "details" grades. What is important is that you be able to determine their approximate values. The dates that might be worth a substantial premium ($200 or more) are the 1878-CC, 1890-CC, 1892 (if a proof, which I doubt), 1892-CC, 1892-S, 1893-O, 1896-S, 1899 and 1901. We can't even be sure that the coins in those album slots are from the indicated mints without seeing the reverses. If you take clear, cropped photos of each side (like of your1924 Huguenot half dollar but preferably cropped more), we should be able to estimate their grades and values.

This 1918-S is a "two feather" example and certainly well worth the $21 you stated you paid for it in your "Latest Acquisition" post. However, the dull and rough appearance of the surfaces suggests that it has been chemically treated in some way and would likely receive a "details" grade at a grading service. Although there have been other instances of "cherrypicking" from dealers on Ebay, notably as I recall a rare original "Washington Before Boston" medal, I prefer to be able to examine coins that I'm buying in-person beforehand. I have cherrypicked varieties from dealers at coin shows, as well as at smaller coin auctions where sometimes the seller and many of the buyers aren't numismatically very savvy.

The photos are too blurry to see clearly, but the doubling appears to be shelf-like and without notching, indicating strike doubling, not a doubled die. (There does not appear to be any known doubled die variety for the 1921 Peace dollar.) The coin appears to have been "cleaned" or polished.

Welcome to the NGC chat board. These are very crude counterfeits that look nothing like genuine coins. They have no value.

This commemorative half dollar has Extremely Fine to About Uncirculated details but may have been "cleaned", which would reduce its value and result in an undesirable "details" grade from a grading service. Assuming that it has not been "cleaned", it has a retail list value of approximately $90-$110, which isn't worth having third-party graded. Most serious collectors want these in uncirculated grades, so most dealers would regard it as a hard to sell item and likely only pay half or so the retail value, less than that if they decide it has been "cleaned".

Welcome to the NGC chat board. Unfortunately, you have posted this topic on the wrong forum. The "Coin Marketplace" forum is restricted to topics offering to sell or purchase specific coins for stated prices and otherwise pursuant to the rules stated in the "Coin Marketplace Guidelines" topic pinned near the top of the first forum page. Many of the chat board members who answer questions such as yours may not see it posted here. I will ask the moderators to move the topic to the "Newbie Coin Collecting Questions" forum", where it should receive more attention. Your question of "what to do with them" is too general to be answered. You need to decide whether you want to sell these coins or to become a collector yourself and hold on to them. In either case, you need to get a good idea of what each coin is worth. It wouldn't be feasible for forum members to attempt an appraisal of every one of these coins, some aspects of which would require in-hand examination in any case and clear, cropped photos of each side of each coin to give even a "ballpark" estimate". (From what little I can see from your photos, the Morgan silver dollars in the album pages may have retail (dealer sell) values ranging from $35 to several hundred dollars apiece, depending on the date, mint and condition.) We could either (1) try to identify well-established coin dealers in your general area who could advise you as to their value or make hopefully legitimate offers for your coins or (2) direct you to print and online resources from which you could learn enough about coin grading and valuation to form an opinion as to their value yourself. It is not advisable for a person without substantial knowledge of coin grading to submit coins to grading services. If you inherited these coins from a deceased relative and they were included in the probate of that person's estate, there should have been an appraisal at that time that would have to be updated but might still be useful. You may also wish to review the following topic regarding the "Newbie Coin Collecting Questions" forum:

Coins that have been packed into a bag aren't "new coins pulled straight from the press. They acquire marks and abrasions after being ejected from the press, being loaded into the bag, and from jostling around in the bag while it is being transported. A few years ago, when the PCGS Rare Coin Market Report included a "Best Grade" column, I tried to answer this question. As I recall, the earliest coin graded "70" by PCGS was a proof 1960 nickel. I have never seen any regular issue coin made for circulation graded "70" by any reputable grading service. As far as I know, all coins graded "70" are collectors' issues, including proofs, commemorative coins, and bullion coins, that received special handling and packaging. If anyone wants to scroll page by page through the NGC Census and the PCGS Population Report to verify this, please be my guest.

In fact, there are extremely rare "satin finish" proofs and "sandblasted with antique finish special strikes" of the 1921 Peace dollar. 1921 $1 Peace, Satin Finish (Proof) Peace Dollar - PCGS CoinFacts, 1921 $1 Peace, Sandblasted w/ Antique Finish (Special Strike) Peace Dollar - PCGS CoinFacts. There are also extremely rare "matte finish" proofs of the 1922 Peace dollar in the high relief style of the 1921s. 1922 $1 Matte Finish, High Relief (Proof) Peace Dollar - PCGS CoinFacts The items posted by the OP here and in his other recent topic aren't examples of any of them.

I'm telling you you're wrong! It's just an ordinary, circulated 1958 cent showing no doubling of any kind and worth a few cents at most. Here are cropped closeups of the diagnostic areas of the 1958 DDO cent from the image on NGC VarietyPlus, which bears no resemblance to your coin: We're happy to help new collectors on this forum and have occasionally identified legitimate doubled dies and other varieties and errors. However, I'm beginning to suspect you're not serious about this and don't want to waste my time. If you're convinced that this coin exhibits the extremely rare known 1958 doubled die obverse or a new but nevertheless significant one, feel free to spend your hard-earned money submitting it to NGC or another reputable third-party grading service for authentication, attribution and grading. Be sure to include the $18 "VarietyPlus" attribution fee, as well as an appropriate tier grading fee, processing fee, and return shipping fee. Review the various topics under the "Submit" tab on the NGC home page for details. Edit: Posted on the wrong forum again.

If you are truly interested in learning about error coins, which is traditionally a specialty of some advanced collectors and making honest offers based on knowledge, error-ref.com is the best website I've seen for general reference. You should learn the basics first by consulting resources like these: Learn Grading: What Is a Mint Error? — Part 1 | NGC (ngccoin.com) Learn Grading: What Is a Mint Error? — Part 2 | NGC (ngccoin.com) Learn Grading: What Is a Mint Error? — Part 3 | NGC (ngccoin.com) Learn Grading: What Is a Mint Error? — Part 4 | NGC (ngccoin.com) Variety vs. Mint Error | NGC (ngccoin.com) and other topics that are shown when "mint errors" is entered in the search bar on the NGC home page. It is also important to learn about how coins are made and about U.S. coins generally. These forum topics identify some basic resources: Any endeavor in life from which you hope to make a legitimate profit will involve study and effort. In this case, you will also be studying a field that may provide much enjoyment, as it has for me.

This is clearly a "vice job" where someone squeezed a quarter against a 2018-D cent. If a struck cent had been overstruck by quarter dies at the mint, for one thing, the quarter image would be "positive" and raised, not "negative" and incuse. There are other things about it that are just wrong. Where do you find all of these altered coins? I hope you're not making them yourself.

Alternatively, you can post your request here:

1906 Liberty nickel, PCGS graded MS 64: Photos courtesy of Stacks Bowers Galleries.

@RWB has provided yet another reason not to break modern collectors' issues out of their government packaging and submit them to grading services. Please leave them alone!

If you "are very new to this", how did you determine that they were legitimate mint errors rather than damaged or intentionally altered coins? Did you sell them to coin dealers or others whom you could reasonably presume would have adequate knowledge to determine that they were in fact mint errors, or did you sell them to the general public based on your representation that they were mint errors?

I can see no indication of doubling of any type on this coin either. Please refer to the resources in my and other members' replies to your previous posts. (If doubled die coins were as common as you apparently believe them to be, they wouldn't be worth anything anyway.)

This proof 1969-S cent shows no indication of doubling, die or otherwise, other than that created by the blurriness of the close-up photos. Please refer to the resources previously provided by me and other members.

This coin, like other (?) 1958 cents you have posted on the "Newbie Coin Collecting Questions" forum, shows no indication of being a doubled die. If you don't understand what a doubled die is supposed to look like from the assistance already given by forum members in reply to your previous posts, please see the following: Double Dies vs. Machine Doubling | NGC (ngccoin.com) https://www.doubleddie.com http://www.varietyvista.com/

Welcome to the NGC chat board. Checking the weight of a rare or frequently counterfeited coin can be a useful tool in the authentication process and would also be relevant if you have a coin that appears to be struck on the wrong planchet to see if it matches the weight of a coin on whose planchet it might have been struck. However, nothing in my over 52 years of experience in numismatics would lead me to believe that weighing normal looking, common coins received in pocket change would be anything other than a great waste of time. In addition to coin weights varying within mint tolerances, worn coins are likely to be appreciably underweight, and accumulations of surface dirt and other adhesions may add to a coin's weight. Although your photos are too out of focus to see much of anything, I note a sizeable black spot that could account for at least part of the additional tenth of a gram. Although your practice could occasionally result in finding a coin struck on a thin or thick planchet, I don't think that they have much market value. Why do you do it?

@powermad5000--This topic is a duplicate post. The coin was being offered for sale online by someone else who reduced the price to a nominal amount and sold it after the OP requested better photos. It is likely a counterfeit modeled from a genuine BB-51. See the other topic:

As the previous replies suggest, this isn't an ancient Roman coin. It is likely a coin struck for what is now Belgium from the sixteenth or seventeenth centuries. (It isn't in my eighteenth-century edition of the Standard Catalog of World Coins.) It is only "Roman" in the sense that this territory was then part of the "Holy Roman Empire", a usually loose confederation of European states that existed from the time of Charlemagne (early ninth century) until the Napoleonic era. The only coins I've been able to come up with that bear this inscription are gold ducats from that period. This is apparently a lower denomination silver coin. Hopefully, a forum participant will have a reference from which it can be identified.

1904-S $5 gold, now NGC graded AU 58, a lower mintage (97,000) issue:

@Tony Follis--Unlike modern collectors' issues that are specially handled, come in a narrow, high grade range and generally aren't worth third-party grading, coins made for circulation such as Peace dollars come in a wide range of grades and differ widely in appearance (surface abrasions, strike, toning) even when awarded the same grade. Many have been "cleaned" or damaged in ways that might not be noticeable to the relatively untrained eye. Some key dates have been deceptively counterfeited or have altered dates (1923 made to resemble 1928) or added mint marks (fake "S" added to 1934). Even if you took the time to gain adequate knowledge of authentication and grading, it is extremely unlikely that each of the coins you would buy uncertified would grade exactly MS 64, as grading is highly subjective and even experts (including grading service graders) often disagree by a grade or so. See Jeff Garrett: The Art of Rare Coin Submissions | NGC (ngccoin.com) for a highly experienced dealer's perspective. As a new collector, you should buy the scarcer dates in certified holders, especially if you want them in uncirculated grades. Depending on your budget, you might have to settle for lower uncirculated grades on some dates and for an XF or AU for the 1934-S, which the NGC Price Guide lists at $7,000 in MS 64 and $2,850 in (usually ugly) MS 60. (Some guides have higher prices.) You might want to buy a common date (1922-25-"P") graded MS 65, as these can be obtained for $150 or so. You should decide whether you find each coin you buy appealing to your own eye and not merely rely on the number on the grading service label. While I agree that coins are not an investment, they are assets and can appreciate over time, provided that you make informed decisions about what to buy and what is or is not worthy of third-party grading. While I doubt that collectors are likely to profit buying modern collector and bullion issues such as ASEs in grading service holders, today's posts on the following topic show that certain people do make money from submitting such coins to grading services, but only so long as unknowledgeable collectors are willing to pay inflated prices for them: