Newenglandrarities

Just to make sure nobody follows this “suspect” advice, gold plating any coin will not add any value to the coin and certainly would not allow it to be graded making it worth an increased value. Look for example at all the “gold plated” state quarters are worth. Exactly 25 cents! Anyway, gold plating will NOT increase the value of your numismatic coin if done today.

To the OP, I don’t see anything unusual about your piece. Maybe a weak strike or some grease on the reverse but nothing of numismatic interest or large value increase that I’m seeing. Sorry I don’t have better news.

This is your answer to what MS and BU mean? You literally have a thread called “coin grading PSA” and you state MS stands for Mint Strike? BU means a synonym? Seriously?? Obviously MS stands for Mint State and BU stands for Brilliant Uncirculated. Also, MS does NOT mean never put into circulation. It is a Grade of a coin.

Do not listen to this advice. First off a 60x magnifying glass will not help. Secondly, dprince doesn’t have any idea what he’s talking about (another resident we can’t stop). Many of us here are helpful and will guide you in the right direction. Some others, don’t listen, and you will very shortly know who not to follow. Good luck and look forward to seeing images!

Please, as said above, post a front and back of each coin you have questions about here on this page. Signing into Google for Google drive folders is a bit questionable here. welcome to the group!!

While I know your response will be “thanks for the bump” I do feel that you need to tone down your approach here. My question for you (which I’m sure you will not answer) is WHY this approach. I mean, you obviously have been told that your approach is rubbing people the wrong way. Here are your options. 1. participate with everyone and try to help without copy/paste other references. 2. Learn from the seasoned and knowledgeable collectors/experts/etc here and add your opinion in a respectful way. Nobody here wants to attack or cancel anyone. Just your approach is pretty tough to deal with

Hey Joe, I would check a source like wizard coin supply (just Google them) for easy supplies. Agree with the above post though, make sure you know what you have before submission. Feel free to post pics of what you have and I’m sure many here can help. Each coin submission will cost between 40-70 with shipping and fees (per coin not total) so it’s worth asking here. Try to take images with your cell phone or similar. We are here to help!

I had the same exact thought! I mean, it is getting a little ridiculous. Dprince, seriously you post statements in all sorts of language, some yours, some seemingly not yours, just a copy-paste from another online source. The people responding here are very knowledgeable numismatists. Try (once again) to tone down your responses and please post some original ideas instead of just copying without context what you find online. Your impression with others here on this site is probably sunk below recovery at this point, but if I were you, I would make an effort anyway

Dprince1138 i kind of agree with the response your getting. There are a lot of people here who volunteer their time and efforts to help newer collectors and people who are serious about the hobby of numismatics. I don’t often respond on this forum, but what you are doing is not only disgraceful with your lack of knowledge, but also potentially damaging to the collectors who are new who think you may be saying something correct. I’ve never asked before to have someone banned, but what you are doing/saying is just so uneducated and ridiculous that you either need to take some time to learn from the seasoned numismatists here, or maybe find another place for your “theories”. You do not seem to have much education or study on any coin. Every post I have read in a hour looking at your profile is completely incorrect. Please either try to help this community by listening and learning, or please leave the group. Plenty of other places for you to spew this .

My bad, wasn’t trying to correct you in any way, just was adding some info for anyone who may care! With regards to silver examples, they can appear darker, though pewter continental dollars in circulated condition can often have black toning. Pewter doesn’t stand the test of time very well if mishandled, so color may not be a good reference for authentication purposes. Just for reference here is the most recent silver example that sold.

My comment above does not mean original examples do not have value. They are quite collectable, though their 50-100k price in general grades are probably not sustainable for the long run. This has been extensively written about in the past few years, look for an article on the Newman portal by David McCarthy, John Kraljevich and Eric Goldstein from a few years ago for more information. The truth is, nothing in American documents show this coin being made, and no newspaper articles or anything related have ever mentioned these coins. To make a coin of this nature would have been a tremendous event, and would have been written about extensively during the period if made for commerce in the US. They are very cool pieces, and quite collectable, but they were just medals/tokens of the era and made in England. There are actually advertisements for them for sale that exist today.

Yes, continental pieces are known in pewter, brass and silver. However, they look nothing like the coins in these posts. A silver continental was considered the first American silver dollar, and as such have brought prices over a million dollars in auction. However, recent research has concluded pretty definitively these are not made in America, but were basically tokens/medals sold overseas (England) using the Franklin design of Continental Currency paper money. While they are of the period (1780s) they are not made in America and never circulated here per se as a dollar coinage. Brass examples are also extremely rare and command high prices. They are very distinct and come from a specific die pairing.

As said above, yes there is a premium depending on the coin in the holder. The original holders can have a significant premium, especially for a “fresh” coin to the market. For example, on the NGC side of things, the “fatty” holders of the past command a premium, and the NGC black holders used for a very short period of time can command upwards of $5000 just for the holder, coin doesn’t matter! There is a big collectable market there as these holders were not purposely made for collectability but just because changes were made fast, they became rare in themselves.

@HuntLoco welcome to the forum! Unfortunately, you have a modern replica of the Continental “Dollar” there. Not worth very much, probably made for a tourist shop or gift shop in a museum.

I think that response may have been meant for me and my response and not your comments. But either way, keep patience and keep up your research. Learn from the studied experts on the forums and keep up looking! It will all click, but it’s a slow gain in the beginning. Experts here that are quick to respond are often highly educated experts in coins, for example one responder in this thread is the consensus Numismatist of the Year for 2023 and was recognized by many at a major convention. We all here are trying to help, but if you get stuck on one coin, and argue against everyone, learning curve will be FAR greater. I may suggest trying now to learn WHY everyone has responded that your coin is just damaged. Once you realize the dozens of experts who have opined the same response are correct, that will be a “feather in the cap” moment and it will stick in your education. Keep searching!

Not always haha, but I do see people who are new to numismatics trying to research and getting a lot of bad information on YouTube nonsense or other “get rich from pocket change” type articles. The research people are doing, while unfounded and not understood all the time, is the type of dedication start that everyone should take. Everyone starts as a “newbie” (even me according to my forum rating!). While I agree that many of these new collectors are “wasting their time” looking for something that will not matter to most, that type of dedication actually will make new “lifers” in the numismatic hobby. I was constantly wrong 25+ years ago with my study and research, but I kept pushing through, and I’m so glad I did. My career and life is coins. I always say, a doctor goes to school for 8-10 years, I’ve gone to school for 25 years and counting, and I still have a ton to learn.

I agree with some above. I very much like the look of the 85. Now, I’m not expert on the market for Morgan’s but personally I find the coin quite attractive. I don’t know if the value warrants grading, but I think that piece would have a premium at best, and more appealing at worse with regards to selling it. I personally would keep it.

You have asked a couple times on two major forums with a bunch of experts answering you “where”. The damage is a hit to the number 2 in the date, that is where. There really is no way to misunderstand where we are talking about. The 2 in the date took damage after it was struck somewhere/sometime while it was in circulation. This is NOT an error coin! Unfortunately the assessment of value by everyone else is correct as well, it is worth maybe 10 cents retail. Again, wish we all had better news for you.

Pretty bad, where did that comment come from. Coinbuf response was absolutely correct and I don’t see what you were feeling to have that response. (troll maybe which you have done from reading your previous posts…) If you want to stay a member of the group, you should probably edit this response. Coinbuf, if it matters or not, I’m sorry you got that response. Ridiculous in my opinion…. edited to add. Mike, you literally got the coin attribution wrong, obvious not what you thought, and then made a derogatory statement to a member who often posts information and educational responses. How can you explain yourself with your behavior and statement? Terrible!

I wouldn’t be too worried about the green spreading anytime soon. Very common to see on Fugios and since the green seems to be in a planchet void, removing it will not really overall impact the coin. From a standpoint of straight grading, it is quite possible it will with the little green, as issues like this are expected on colonial coinage of this era.

That is not what it says if you read, it is actually so off that they have to call it something. Read the text by the Civil War Token Society above. I’m sure the national organization of experts would be happy to tell you exactly what I am telling you at this point. Feel free to reach out to them if you desire. I do not have an edge picture but you need to understand, where is your edge picture which would clearly show what I’ve and others have told you. Also, you ask who is the maker, I did answer, it is an operation that is overseas that make all sorts of fakes, from Civil War Tokens, to other coins. This is very common in our world these days. This is not a website or a person you can contact obviously, what faker would have that information there for you. Can you call up the maker of fake Rolex’s and talk to the maker to ask them anything? again, I’m sorry that you do not have what you think you do. I am done at this point. Good luck

Ok, I literally just showed you your exact coin in a picture. It is listed on the obvious fake list. I have been dealing in Civil War tokens for over 30 years, I am a published and recognized expert and a consultant for many grading services and books written on these coins. I’m not really sure what to tell you at this point. Think of it this way, I would be the first to congratulate you on a great new discovery, and would most likely be trying to get you to sell me this coin as I sell high 6 figures of CWTs yearly. Why would I not want this amazing new discovery for my clients if it was real? I am trying to help. I assumed you would just argue, so I think everyone but you will be able to see exactly what you have at this point. Remember I’m not being paid to give you bad news here, I am taking my time out of my day to try to help you not lose any more money or time on your coin, which unfortunately exists because of greed. It is not a real coin, it will not ever be. I wish it was, I’m sorry.

These are some of the dies that have been produced in low quality copies like yours. There is a real operation here, and a lot of people trying to combat these. Hundreds were trying to be sold on eBay in the last 10 years, and there is a group of people who watch eBay for exactly this type of thing to have them removed so an unsuspecting buyer does not get ripped off. Hopefully this helps, http://www.cwtsociety.com/news/alerts.shtml

I will add, your exact die pairing is known in reproductions in copper, brass, “white metal” as well. These particular designs of patriotic CWTs was a favorite for this maker and there are literally dozens of “unique” combinations that have shown up. Frankly, these (including your coin) are the most obvious of all the fakes that have presented themselves to the market in the last 25-30 years,

Ernest, I can’t really help more than this, I posted a picture of your “exact” coin in actually better quality than yours. It is a very well-known fake. There are literally hundreds, if not thousands of this type of counterfeit that float around. I also can see the edge from your images, I know you don’t see a seam to your eyes, but the edge is also a very telltale sign on these. Even without you seeing the seam issue that is fairly obvious to me, I can tell from the edge that it is not correct in style and shape as an authentic civil war token edge. The maker is not like a name you can contact, it’s an operation who has produced thousands of modern fakes, which unfortunately your coin is one of those. These fakes are very well known to NGC, PCGS, and all the grading services. Even if they were not known to collectors or grading services, a very quick look at your coin would tell anyone who is experienced that the coin is wrong and not of the era of the 1860s. Again, I’m very sorry for this information and I hope you are able to see that spending anymore money trying to certify your “unique new discovery” will just end up with the same result and a loss of more money and time for you. Just to point out, how can your coin be a new unique variety when I just posted another example of it? Not trying to pile on, but I have seen over a dozen in the last year or two of your exact coin in that exact metal. Again, I’m very sorry, but it is not, and will not ever be, something other than a fantasy/fake modern reproduction.