The best value in coin collecting...

[wayneherndon]

Here's another thought inspired by Mark's thread on huge price jumps for one point increases.

 

IMO, the grade just below the huge price jump is the best buy for collectors (not talking investors here). In this grade the coin is considerably cheaper yet the one point difference typically means only slightly less coin (luster, marks, strike, eye appeal).

 

I haven't really tracked this but would also suspect that they perform well price wise for a couple of reasons:

 

1--the huge price jump will preclude many series collectors from being able to acquire the coin in the grade above the price jump. So, they'll fall back to the grade below, increasing relative demand at this level.

 

2--these are the ideal targets for the upgraders willing to pay premiums for pieces thought to have a shot.

 

WH

[MarkFeld]

Here's another thought inspired by Mark's thread on huge price jumps for one point increases.

 

IMO, the grade just below the huge price jump is the best buy for collectors (not talking investors here). In this grade the coin is considerably cheaper yet the one point difference typically means only slightly less coin (luster, marks, strike, eye appeal).

 

I haven't really tracked this but would also suspect that they perform well price wise for a couple of reasons:

 

1--the huge price jump will preclude many series collectors from being able to acquire the coin in the grade above the price jump. So, they'll fall back to the grade below, increasing relative demand at this level.

 

2--these are the ideal targets for the upgraders willing to pay premiums for pieces thought to have a shot.

 

WH

I agree with the concept, as do many other buyers. I wonder, though, if/when the value of the "grade just below the huge price jump" becomes noticeably distorted (as in not as attractive as it would be) due to the bandwagon effect of so many collectors pursuing that grade?

[123cents]

I think the best value in coin collecting is AU-58. If you buy a true AU-58 coin, you get a beautiful coin with minimal wear with beautifully surfaces at a great discount over what a mint state coin would cost.

 

Edited to add: This has been true for the type coins I have collected. I cannot say this is true for every type coin though.

[MarkFeld]

I think the best value in coin collecting is AU-58. If you buy a true AU-58 coin, you get a beautiful coin with minimal wear with beautifully surfaces at a great discount over what a mint state coin would cost.

I must disagree, but mostly, because many such AU58's end up costing MS (60-62) money anyway. Still, they are often preferable to a truly unc., but ugly and/or badly beaten up example.

[DC Dawg]

I think the best value in coin collecting is AU-58. If you buy a true AU-58 coin, you get a beautiful coin with minimal wear with beautifully surfaces at a great discount over what a mint state coin would cost.

I must disagree, but mostly, because many such AU58's end up costing MS (60-62) money anyway. Still, they are often preferable to a truly unc., but ugly and/or badly beaten up example.

Not necessarily for all coins. I have a 1955/55 Lincoln Cent graded AU-58 that was purchased raw as if it was AU-55. For being just short of MS, I think it was a good deal.

 

I found your statement true for Morgan Dollars because of the demand. What about for other coins? What about AU value for late year Barbers or early year Buffalo Nickels and Mercury Dimes?

 

Scott

[MarkFeld]

I think the best value in coin collecting is AU-58. If you buy a true AU-58 coin, you get a beautiful coin with minimal wear with beautifully surfaces at a great discount over what a mint state coin would cost.

I must disagree, but mostly, because many such AU58's end up costing MS (60-62) money anyway. Still, they are often preferable to a truly unc., but ugly and/or badly beaten up example.

Not necessarily for all coins. I have a 1955/55 Lincoln Cent graded AU-58 that was purchased raw as if it was AU-55. For being just short of MS, I think it was a good deal.

 

I found your statement true for Morgan Dollars because of the demand. What about for other coins? What about AU value for late year Barbers or early year Buffalo Nickels and Mercury Dimes?

 

Scott

Scott, if you can get an uncertified choice AU58 coin for AU55 money, that's great. In my case, I was speaking of certified AU58's though. Based upon my handling mostly type coins, the AU58 types I'd most likely be pursuing would be coins such as AU58 Flowing Hair and Draped Bust examples, as well as pre-1834 gold type pieces.

[michael]

Here's another thought inspired by Mark's thread on huge price jumps for one point increases.

 

IMO, the grade just below the huge price jump is the best buy for collectors (not talking investors here). In this grade the coin is considerably cheaper yet the one point difference typically means only slightly less coin (luster, marks, strike, eye appeal).----ESPECIALLY SO IF THE COIN HAS AS GOOD AS IF NOT BETTER EYE APPEAL AND QUALITIES AS THE SAME COIN TYPE AND DATE AND DESIGNATION IN THE POINT HIGHER HOLDER WHICH MAY TURN OUT TO BE THE BEST OPPORTUNITY VALUE BUY WHEN YOU GO TO SELL IN IN THE FUTURE

 

I haven't really tracked this but would also suspect that they perform well price wise for a couple of reasons:

 

1--the huge price jump will preclude many series collectors from being able to acquire the coin in the grade above the price jump. So, they'll fall back to the grade below, increasing relative demand at this level.

 

2--these are the ideal targets for the upgraders willing to pay premiums for pieces thought to have a shot.

 

WH

 

totally true wayne with my comment in caps after your first paragraph

[WinstonWare]

Here's another thought inspired by Mark's thread on huge price jumps for one point increases.

 

IMO, the grade just below the huge price jump is the best buy for collectors (not talking investors here). In this grade the coin is considerably cheaper yet the one point difference typically means only slightly less coin (luster, marks, strike, eye appeal).----ESPECIALLY SO IF THE COIN HAS AS GOOD AS IF NOT BETTER EYE APPEAL AND QUALITIES AS THE SAME COIN TYPE AND DATE AND DESIGNATION IN THE POINT HIGHER HOLDER WHICH MAY TURN OUT TO BE THE BEST OPPORTUNITY VALUE BUY WHEN YOU GO TO SELL IN IN THE FUTURE

 

I haven't really tracked this but would also suspect that they perform well price wise for a couple of reasons:

 

1--the huge price jump will preclude many series collectors from being able to acquire the coin in the grade above the price jump. So, they'll fall back to the grade below, increasing relative demand at this level.

 

2--these are the ideal targets for the upgraders willing to pay premiums for pieces thought to have a shot.

 

WH

 

totally true wayne with my comment in caps after your first paragraph

 

I agree with Michael and Wayne

[MikeKing]

I agree with Winston, Michael, and Wayne.

[michael]

agreeing with me mikeking might get you in really hot water or even bammed

[lkenefic]

I think this is true to a point. However, the "big price jump" could be a subjective thing. In Morgan Dollars for instance, the '92-S makes a huge price jump in AU... point well taken here... On the other hand, the '94-O makes a 3x price jump from XF to AU... levels off...and then makes another 3x price jump at 62. Where do you put your money? Leo

[construct]

Sorry, but i got my 94-O Morgan out of a junk box for $14.

 

In general, I look for the grade before the price jump. So I agree.

[just-john]

I like 1945 Lincoln Cent MSRD- MS-67 =$125.00

MSRD- MS-68 = $4690.00

ALSO 1950-s Lincoln Cent MS-66 -$35.00

MS-67 = $1250.00

One grade on a cent sure makes a difference

[michael]

and there are lots out there even by the original roll in gem red