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1964 Cent
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35 posts in this topic

On 2/26/2022 at 10:46 PM, JKK said:

Well, I have to assume you have a reason for being there in spite of that, and I doubt that it is economic need. So I would assume that this reason governs, or you'd move back to Pennsylvania. Right?

Thinking of Colorado Springs, actually. 

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On 2/26/2022 at 9:35 PM, VKurtB said:

Thinking of Colorado Springs, actually. 

If you like old school video and pinball arcades, there's a butt-kicking one in Manitou Springs.

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On 2/27/2022 at 12:18 AM, JKK said:

If you like old school video and pinball arcades, there's a butt-kicking one in Manitou Springs.

Yes, we visit atleast twice a year! My father took us as kids since he grew up in the Miramont Castle just up the road. The penny arcade is still going with more games being added through the years. A lot of vintage and antique arcade cabinets. If I move ever again, it will be towards Manitou but more west.... 

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On 2/24/2022 at 3:50 PM, RWB said:

Your are absolutely right.

Yes, but even with your first attempt, you’re way ahead of most. 

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On 2/24/2022 at 12:53 PM, JKK said:

That one looks pretty natural.

In general, the helpful thing is to know how coins get cleaned. There are two methods: chemical and abrasive. Chemical means may affect only surface crudulation, or they may be caustic enough to attack the metal. Abrasive methods are typically either lateral (side to side) or circular (as with a Dremel tool). Often people combine the two, rarely with good results.

So with chemical, you are looking for unnatural color and/or residue. Especially if they don't like the result, cleaners will sometimes not bother removing all of the residue. With abrasives, you're looking for tiny scratches. A microscope is very helpful when assessing what has been done to a coin. The typical numismidiot--by this I mean someone who just decided to "get into coins," and thinks "if its shinny yo no1 will no if its unsurkalated so imma brasso it real good"--has zero idea the resources we have to detect and assess cleaning. We get them here every day.

For natural looks, a proof looks mirror-finished (and sometimes they are impaired). Its color may have darkened, but you're looking at the surface. Old copper tends to turn brown, usually a very appealing chocolate or caramel color. New copper is bright and, well, coppery--your penny is a good example. Silver can tend to darken over time; when new, in coins, it often has a sort of faint buttery color, but it can tarnish to charcoal flat black and still be uncirculated, as circulation status doesn't mean level of shininess.

A cleaned copper coin will usually have an unnatural coppery color, more pink than red-orange. Look for a coin with wear to the high points but too brightly colored. A cleaned silver coin will come out blast white, an unnatural color for a circulated silver coin. In the end, to get good at it, get a microscope and start examining coins. Even buy some that a dealer has marked down as "cleaned" so you can see what the symptoms are. Time invested here will pay off in better buying later.

Or grab some circulated coins that aren’t worth much and clean them. Do a abrasive clean and a dip in vinegar with a penny. That way you’ll be able to see the difference on how they look in appearance.

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