Key dates for Misc coins

[BLive1972]

I plan on going up to a few estate sales and auction houses in Buffalo and was wondering about what dates I should keep an eye out on on a few coins. I'm looking to build my collection, but there's so much out there to chose from. I'd like to focus on just a few to keep myself from getting confused and ripped off. I'm also open to suggestions, so if you think I should focus on something else please let me know.

 

I'm interested in which key dates I should look for in Morgans, Peace, half dimes, seated liberty or barber half dollars. There may be many key dates, so maybe just the ones I have a good possibility of running into.

 

I'll also be visiting some friends of friends old farm houses and they have some things for me to look at, so anything you can help with would be great. Thanks!!

[Mr.Mcknowitall]

I plan on going up to a few estate sales and auction houses in Buffalo and was wondering about what dates I should keep an eye out on on a few coins. I'm looking to build my collection, but there's so much out there to chose from. I'd like to focus on just a few to keep myself from getting confused and ripped off. I'm also open to suggestions, so if you think I should focus on something else please let me know.

 

I'm interested in which key dates I should look for in Morgans, Peace, half dimes, seated liberty or barber half dollars. There may be many key dates, so maybe just the ones I have a good possibility of running into.

 

I'll also be visiting some friends of friends old farm houses and they have some things for me to look at, so anything you can help with would be great. Thanks!!

 

Maybe consider quality as opposed to key dates.

 

Any of the series you state would be a nice coin in many grades, and of interest to collectors. Focus on condition.

 

As to key dates, you can pick up a red book very cheaply (old one doesn't matter) that would be a quick reference source.

[BLive1972]

That's a good idea. Just bought one on ebay.

[Mr.Mcknowitall]

That's a good idea. Just bought one on ebay.

 

Oh, and welcome to the U.S. Coin Board, where you are certain to add to your knowledge, and read some very interesting opinions, that will keep your interest. Heck, you may even find somebody you don't particularly like, not that I am volunteering...I am on enough lists of other members, as it is.

[cpm9ball]

In addition to what has already been said, be aware that there are often people bidding on coins at estate sales who haven't the slightest idea of their value and will often bid too much. Don't get caught in the frenzy.

 

Also, when viewing lots that are in albums like the old "Whitman blues", don't assume that every coin is in the proper slot. I once went to an estate auction that had a partial Mercury dime collection in a Whitman album in one of the display cases. I noticed that there was a Mercury in both the 1916 & 1916-D slots, so I asked if I could inspect the album. I removed the 1916-D to check the mintmark, and sure enough, it was another Philly.

 

Chris

[JIM F.]

You may want to befriend someone that is knowledgeable and trustworthy (and available) to send pics of what you may find of value. Good luck with your hunt, and welcome to the boards.

[BLive1972]

Thanks guys. I've been reading a lot of these posts and there's just so much out there. Going through this book should give me some great ideas. Seeing some of the amazing coins posted in here is just great.

 

Just found a coin dealer by my house, so I thought I'd check it out. Wanted to make friends so I bought something. I though I'd get a random date morgan just to add to my misc pile, so he sold me one for $30 He asked another gentleman to go in the back for change. When he gave it to me one of the bills looked a little greener. It looks like I got my change back plus a tip I don't know anything about these, but after a quick look around it looks to be worth more than $1. Its pretty crisp except for a fold down the middle and a bent corner. Not a coin, but pretty cool gift from an experienced coin dealer

[JIM F.]

Thanks guys. I've been reading a lot of these posts and there's just so much out there. Going through this book should give me some great ideas. Seeing some of the amazing coins posted in here is just great.

 

Just found a coin dealer by my house, so I thought I'd check it out. Wanted to make friends so I bought something. I though I'd get a random date morgan just to add to my misc pile, so he sold me one for $30 He asked another gentleman to go in the back for change. When he gave it to me one of the bills looked a little greener. It looks like I got my change back plus a tip I don't know anything about these, but after a quick look around it looks to be worth more than $1. Its pretty crisp except for a fold down the middle and a bent corner. Not a coin, but pretty cool gift from an experienced coin dealer

 

They are not rare and worth little over face value. The dealer probably gives these in change to new customers as a courtesy. It's a nice thing for him to do.

[zboyle04]

i can tell you for peace dollar: 1921 in MS, 1928 in any grade, 1934-s in AU+ while maybe not "key dates" as most peace dollars are widely available they are worth pursuing

[BLive1972]

i can tell you for peace dollar: 1921 in MS, 1928 in any grade, 1934-s in AU+ while maybe not "key dates" as most peace dollars are widely available they are worth pursuing

Noted. Thank you!!

 

[Mr.Mcknowitall]

i can tell you for peace dollar: 1921 in MS, 1928 in any grade, 1934-s in AU+ while maybe not "key dates" as most peace dollars are widely available they are worth pursuing

Noted. Thank you!!

 

If you find a 1928, email your new best friend Johnny Curlis....

[newprepper]

i can tell you for peace dollar: 1921 in MS, 1928 in any grade, 1934-s in AU+ while maybe not "key dates" as most peace dollars are widely available they are worth pursuing

Noted. Thank you!!

 

If you find a 1928, email your new best friend Johnny Curlis....

 

So to your "new" friends, you are Johnny, but to the rest of us schlubs, you remain johncurlis, I think I see where we stand

[Mr.Mcknowitall]

i can tell you for peace dollar: 1921 in MS, 1928 in any grade, 1934-s in AU+ while maybe not "key dates" as most peace dollars are widely available they are worth pursuing

Noted. Thank you!!

 

If you find a 1928, email your new best friend Johnny Curlis....

 

So to your "new" friends, you are Johnny, but to the rest of us schlubs, you remain johncurlis, I think I see where we stand

 

Good...find a 1928, email me, and we will reconsider your status.

Until then please communicate thru my new best friend BLive.

[newprepper]

i can tell you for peace dollar: 1921 in MS, 1928 in any grade, 1934-s in AU+ while maybe not "key dates" as most peace dollars are widely available they are worth pursuing

Noted. Thank you!!

 

Please tell johncurlis I quit him, thank you

[cpm9ball]

i can tell you for peace dollar: 1921 in MS, 1928 in any grade, 1934-s in AU+ while maybe not "key dates" as most peace dollars are widely available they are worth pursuing

Noted. Thank you!!

 

If you find a 1928, email your new best friend Johnny Curlis....

 

Would one like this do?

 

Chris

[Mr.Mcknowitall]

i can tell you for peace dollar: 1921 in MS, 1928 in any grade, 1934-s in AU+ while maybe not "key dates" as most peace dollars are widely available they are worth pursuing

Noted. Thank you!!

 

If you find a 1928, email your new best friend Johnny Curlis....

 

Would one like this do?

 

Chris

 

Yes.

Thank You.

 

Johnny.

 

PS: Prep, see how this works???

[messydesk]

Key dates you find raw at estate sales or country auctions are more likely to be counterfeit than other coins. Develop an eye for nice coins before going after key dates to avoid some expensive mistakes.

[Mr.Mcknowitall]

Key dates you find raw at estate sales or country auctions are more likely to be counterfeit than other coins. Develop an eye for nice coins before going after key dates to avoid some expensive mistakes.

 

What he said.

Johnny

[newprepper]

i can tell you for peace dollar: 1921 in MS, 1928 in any grade, 1934-s in AU+ while maybe not "key dates" as most peace dollars are widely available they are worth pursuing

Noted. Thank you!!

 

If you find a 1928, email your new best friend Johnny Curlis....

 

Would one like this do?

 

Chris

 

Yes.

Thank You.

 

Johnny.

 

PS: Prep, see how this works???

 

I thought I heard something......it sounded like blah blah blah.......

[TomB]

Go slow. The coins will be there in the future. One of the traps for many new collectors is buying ahead of their knowledge. Good luck.

[James_OldeTowne]

I plan on going up to a few estate sales and auction houses in Buffalo and was wondering about what dates I should keep an eye out on on a few coins. I'm looking to build my collection, but there's so much out there to chose from. I'd like to focus on just a few to keep myself from getting confused and ripped off. I'm also open to suggestions, so if you think I should focus on something else please let me know.

 

I'm interested in which key dates I should look for in Morgans, Peace, half dimes, seated liberty or barber half dollars. There may be many key dates, so maybe just the ones I have a good possibility of running into.

Especially with regard to "keys", be wary of fake examples! At the last "estate auction" I went to (within the last two weeks), probably a third of the gold coins were counterfeit.

 

It is a situation where (key) coins certified by a legitimate company are a great help.

 

(Beware of counterfeit slabs, too.)

[Yankeejose]

Very good points- most of my raw sets are missing the key dates because I do not want to spend the money it a takes to by one and risk it being counterfeit. I have read alot about coins being counterfeited n large quantities like the aforementioned 1916 D mercury dime, 1914 D and 1909 S VDB lincoln cents, 1937 3 legged buffalo, etc. I was looking at 2 1913 S type 2 buffalo that closed out Sunday on Eay. One went for $150 and the other $120. The closer I looked at the pictures all I could make out was the 3. These easily could have been well worn 1923 S coins, but because they called them 1913 S it must must be true? Better to buy certified key dates, unless you have a coin dealer you have dealt with often and can really trust.

[michael]

for the half dimes the key dates are

 

1792

1794

1797 13 stars

1802

i guess any half dime from 1794-1805 is a key date

1846

1853-o no arrows

1865

1866

1867

1870-s is a unique coin but you never know

 

good luck in your search

 

also a new variety just certified by ngc is a 5c coin but made out of nickel

1926 doubled die and the doubling is most clearly seen on Liberty on the obverse

[BLive1972]

Good advice Tom. I might already be doing that. I'll pump the brakes a bit

 

I know it might be a risk buying from ebay, but can any of you recommend a good seller with decent prices..perhaps you are? Was checking out juliancoin (http://myworld.ebay.com/juliancoin/) Also, should I be staying away from "buy now" offers? Do they just hike up the price knowing that someone NEEDS it and will pay anything?

 

You guys are great and I appreciate the advice.

[BLive1972]

Now that I look. He seems a bit high....

 

edit...just found a topic about him, so never mind.

[TomB]

Julian is a great guy and he handles some wonderful coins, but of course not everything in his inventory will work for every client. I have no problems with buying ebay BIN lots and have done very well in the past with this strategy, but it is not an easy thing to do routinely. However, if the right coin is out there, the BIN might be awfully inexpensive for the quality.

[BLive1972]

Thanks again Tom. He does have some great looking coins, but a bit out of my league

[Raisethis2]

Over the long haul focusing on just one or two series will lower the chances of becoming confused.

 

The Red Book is an excellent idea since all coin populations are noted. Generally, lower populations mean the coin in question is a key. That said, the keys are generally much harder to find too. Beware, the prices published are (in my opinion) an estimate of the RETAIL VALUE of the coin. Unless the coin is just spectacular, I wouldn't pay that amount.

 

 

[Yankeejose]

Regarding your question about BIN prices, I look at Ebay coins several days a week. In my experience 49 out of 50 BIN are way over priced. As a test- find a BIN certified coin and search for other examples by the same grading company and with the same grade. Unless it is very rare or a condition rarity, it will end up selling at auction a lot cheaper. Of course nicely toned certified coins go for a premium and overgraded or undesirably toned coins will go for less. In my opinion you can still find coins a lot cheaper in the auctions versus BIN. So many times I wonder why so many sellers put such outrageous BIN items in Ebay. Do they really find suckers to pay these prices, or do they not really want to sell them unless they can make a huge profit?

[BLive1972]

Over the long haul focusing on just one or two series will lower the chances of becoming confused.

 

The Red Book is an excellent idea since all coin populations are noted. Generally, lower populations mean the coin in question is a key. That said, the keys are generally much harder to find too. Beware, the prices published are (in my opinion) an estimate of the RETAIL VALUE of the coin. Unless the coin is just spectacular, I wouldn't pay that amount.

 

 

So, is it acceptable to try and haggle? I tried at 1 coin store and he wasn't even going to humor me.