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Picture taking... How am I doing?

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why i dont use a copy stand i use the small easle. it tilts the coin then i just level out to that and the lights sit around it.

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why i dont use a copy stand i use the small easle. it tilts the coin then i just level out to that and the lights sit around it.

 

The problem I find with those little easels is that when I take multiple pics, they all seem to come out different sizes. I can't keep the camera in one place and take a lot of pictures. I have to move the camera different distances from the coin, and this causes the coin in the pictures to come out different sizes. If I'm using a copystand, the distance is always the same.

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i just resize :) but you are doing awsome :)

 

 

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this was a fast snap but gives the idea of what i do :)

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After a bunch of tweaking, and switching coins, this is what I've come up with. I switched everything on the camera to manual, so I've got a little more control. Whaddaya think?

 

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Yes maybe another bulb would help but the full slabs shots look pretty good. Also keep in mind that it is very difficult to images anything smaller than a half dollar in NGC slabs so your not going to get optimal light on the surface of a nickel (thumbs u

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Chad you have come along way. Ah what do I know about taking photos of coins? ;) Anyhow 2 lights are almost always a must. Good luck!

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Also keep in mind that it is very difficult to images anything smaller than a half dollar in NGC slabs so your not going to get optimal light on the surface of a nickel (thumbs u

 

It becomes MUCH MUCH easier if you have a long lens and can get some working distance from the coin such that you can position your lights "high" thus cutting the shadow area the NGC slab casts on the coin...Mike

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Also keep in mind that it is very difficult to images anything smaller than a half dollar in NGC slabs so your not going to get optimal light on the surface of a nickel (thumbs u

 

It becomes MUCH MUCH easier if you have a long lens and can get some working distance from the coin such that you can position your lights "high" thus cutting the shadow area the NGC slab casts on the coin...Mike

 

 

Don't rub it in Mike....we are not rolling with SLR's and high priced lenses.... lol

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You can get a cheap tripod (heavier is better) at Wallie World for $10-15. I suggest trying a setup something like my inexpensive photography setup.

 

You should leave the coin flat and move the lights, not the other way around. You get much more control of the lighting of the coin that way, and your coin always appears flat. If you absolutely have to, you can try sticking a small wedge under the slab and tilting it 5 degrees, but aim for keeping it flat.

 

95% of learning how to do this well is learning to control the light. Everything else is just technical control of the camera. It's as much an art as a science. That said, you will get better results with better camera equipment. That's just a fact, but you can get very decent results even with an inexpensive camera and lens.

 

This is from a more advanced digital SLR system, but with the same cheap lighting and tripod as shown in the link above.

 

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If your imaging toned coins......I disagree that flat is the best way to go.....you almost always have to angle the coin or the camera...or both....you just can't capture most toning with a straight on shot.

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I would argue that all you really need to do is angle the lighting most of the time, Shane.

 

 

I would disagree but....my opinion has no more value than yours. I base my opinion on years of imaging just toned coins as well as knowing you really have to rotate a coin around in your hand under the light to view all of the facets of the toning on the surface. It's not possible to find the sweet spot with a direct shot straight on unless......the coin has very 1 deminsional toning. I use the angles to get the best shot.....not to just capture some of the colors. Proof coins would be a real good example of what I am talking about especially Proof IHC's with color.....

 

 

I guess it's really up to each individual as to what they want to capture best when imaging.....

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I would argue that all you really need to do is angle the lighting most of the time, Shane.

 

 

I would disagree but....my opinion has no more value than yours. I base my opinion on years of imaging just toned coins as well as knowing you really have to rotate a coin around in your hand under the light to view all of the facets of the toning on the surface. It's not possible to find the sweet spot with a direct shot straight on unless......the coin has very 1 deminsional toning. I use the angles to get the best shot.....not to just capture some of the colors. Proof coins would be a real good example of what I am talking about especially Proof IHC's with color.....

 

 

I guess it's really up to each individual as to what they want to capture best when imaging.....

 

I agree. I generally angle my coins in order to image the sweet spot.

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