Oceanavekid@icloud.com

On 7/15/2021 at 2:06 PM, Quintus Arrius said:

Faux silver is a poor way to pay tribute to a coin. That's why I champion the Intaglio Mint's approach to classic designs.  They execute them in 2-oz .999 fine silver coins.

The sets still go for $20+

19 minutes ago, RWB said:

Yep. And the original buyer paid many times the value of the silver for these imitations. The same dollars spent on "junk silver coins" would have produced a far greater return.

 

Good thing we have nothing into them 

Not planning on selling but if I did it’s all profit 

1 hour ago, RWB said:

The so-called "tribute sets" are imitations worth only their metal content. They are made to sucker-in uninformed and gullible buyers. They are not coins - merely tokens. The word "COPY" makes them compliant with the Hobby Protection Act and keeps them from being counterfeit coins.

Silver is silver 

mill take any coin that has silver in it 

2 minutes ago, VKurtB said:

Breaking up a proof set should only be done if there is a compelling reason to do so, which is not obvious here. Like what? Like obscenity, you’ll know it when you see it. 

Good to know 

any tips to storing them so they stay in nice shape ?

2 hours ago, Just Bob said:

Those sets were produced by the National Collectors Mint, a private company that produces limited edition "collectibles" that may or may not appreciate in value. This mintage was limited to 1009 sets, I believe. The "coins" are silver, except for the cent copy, which is copper. Interestingly, the COAs are signed by Barry Goldwater, Jr., former representative from California, and son of former Senator and presidential candidate Barry Goldwater, Sr.

Good to know 

even if not worth grading. Anything silver is worth keeping 

16 minutes ago, Jason Abshier said:

Never mind I been fooled 🤣 saw “copy” written on the coins 

I wish 

they’d definitely be worth getting graded. Alas just a tribute set. 
 

my son has some other coins that aren’t proof that are probably worth more than these coins. Not sure if they’re “worth” grading 

15 minutes ago, Just Bob said:

Welcome to the forum.

The 1957 set appears to be proof coins which have been removed from their original government packaging, and put into an aftermarket holder. This is the type of holder that RWB was referring to, which can be bought from coin supply houses.

Can you show reverse pictures of the two tribute sets? Are those pieces the same size as normal coins? Do they have "COPY" stamped on the reverse?

 

Yup they both say copy 

Should I switch out the 57 set to individual holders or a different type of holder? The dime definitely has some oxidation but the rest look to be in nice shape. Even if they’re not worth grading to most, getting them for free and most being over ace value 👍

3 minutes ago, RWB said:

Nice protective proof set cases (similar to the one in your photos) cost about $1. Wizard Coin Supply, Whitman and other hobby supply sellers have them.

Not even sure the 57 set is proof 

might just be a complete set. 
 

got them all for free from my step dad. He always gives my son any coins he knows are worth more than face value 

8 minutes ago, RWB said:

None of the sets described are worth having individual coins authenticated and graded - the expense is more than the coins' values. Also, having a grading company remove ugly tarnish will further add to the cost.

 

👍 not looking to sell them. I might just buy a holders for the 1957 and get them out of that case. Leave the rest as is 

3 minutes ago, JKK said:

Thanks, Ronnie, for your kind exaggeration of my knowledge levels.

OP: Do understand that the history of proof coins is not unbroken. Our first sets were issued in 1936, with years that contained none. (If anyone ever offers you a 1945 proof set, think in terms of authentication.) Through 1964, proof sets were minted only at the U.S. Mint (Philly). Thereafter, to my knowledge, all have been minted at the San Francisco branch mint. So there are no 1964-D proof sets, for example, nor 1978 (no mm) proof sets, no 1937-S proof sets, etc.

Do also please know that people have assembled proof sets from loose coins bought individually. Those aren't the same as proof sets in mint packaging. I don't know which all years have individual proof coins, nor from which mints. The important thing to know is that you can grab an issue of Coin Values and see a complete listing of proof sets in the back, plus the individual coin values for solo proof coins. For example, there were proof $10 Coronet gold pieces in 1838, 1845, 1859-1865. Those are solos (and if you find one, it's totally worth grading since it will hammer for six figures). You will find solos all over. I own an 1891 proof Liberty nickel and an 1896 proof Barber half. Both had total mintages of less than 2000. They were struck to fill collectors' orders, not as part of sets, at least to my understanding.

Besides the 1957 coins which I don’t think are proof just a complete set 

The rest are all issues from the mint

2 minutes ago, JKK said:

The 1964 and earlier sets are in greater demand, and not just due to the silver content. I can't really advise on set breaks except that my normal bias is against it. My birth set is before 1964 and high book is $24 right now. That's more than most of the post-1964 stuff, but not all. Some years have variations and some get premiums just for showing up. I would look them all up, and where varieties exist, see if those varieties could possibly apply.

Looks like the older sets are all from Philadelphia 

I’ll probably send in the 57 set as it’s not in the original proof packaging(probably not proof) but still in nice shape - the dime which is definitely starting to oxidize. 
 

the insert even says in time they might tarnish 

1957 are the oldest. Not sure if they’re proof but still a nice set. I have

1 60

1 61

2 62 

1 63 

4 64
 

the rest are 71-92 and two proof tribute sets 

I have a question about proof sets. 
 

my step dad gave my son two sandwich bags full of proof sets. Some are newer which probably aren’t worth much but he had a lot of 1964 and older sets. 
 

is it better to keep them together or should I get the older coins graded? Some of the older coins look a little tarnished. 
 

not sure if they’ll be worth more individually graded or kept as sets