michael

welcome to the forums

FAQ: The Continental "Dollar"

Concerning the large pewter (or silver) coin often called a Continental dollar. An introduction to that coin is available on our web site at:

http://www.coins.nd.edu/ColCoin/ColCoinIntros/CC-Dollar.intro.html

These coins are quite rare. Originals are valued at between $30,000 (in poorer condition) to about $175,000 is excellent choice unc. condition. However, many reproductions and replicas have been made over the years for collectors; these reproductions have little or no market value. Some are sold for $1.00 as souvenirs at colonial sites as in Williamsburg, VA. The replicas have exactly the same markings as the originals but they are of a different metal (usually tin or lead) and have a different weight. Several, but not all replicas, are slightly smaller in diameter than the originals.

If you would like to determine if your coin is a rare original you should contact

A company providing a grading service is the Professional Coin Grading Service (PCGS). They will attribute and grade colonial coins. Their services and prices are listed on the web at:

http://pcgs.com/

I should caution you I have 2-3 requests per week from individuals who think they have original "Continental Dollars." Statistically, based on the rarity of original examples and the large quantity of replicas, it is probable your coin may be a copy. Varieties with both the correct spelling (Currency) and the misspellings (Curency and Currencey) have been extensively copied. In either event if you wish to preserve your item, place it in an inert plastic coin holder and keep it out of direct sunlight or excessive heat. Most coin stores will have some coin holders available. One of the better brands is Saflip which is made of Polyethylene Terepthalate available from E and T Kointainer, Box 103, Sidney, OH 45365. A pack of 50 is under $5.00.

On this coin, for prices see the latest edition of R. S, Yeoman, A Guide Book of United States Coins (52st ed. 1999, p. 33) this is often called the Red Book because of the color of the cover: For more detailed discussions see: Walter Breen's Complete Encyclopedia of US and Colonial Coins, pp. 110-112; Hodder, Michael. The Continental Currency Coinage of 1776, in The American Numismatic Association Centennial Anthology, Wolfeboro, NH: Bowers and Merana, 1991, pp. 7-18; and Newman, Eric. The 1776 Continental Currency Coinage, in The Coin Collector's Journal, July-August (1952) 1-9.

i agree a replica

i cant tell for sure without seeing the coin but these were sold at the philly mint gift shop during the bi centennial in 1976 they sold a ton i know i was there looking at the eliasberg coins and also i bought a set of coloinals there continentail dollar, mass one cent etc again all replicas

and one was the continental dollar take a look at the edge you will see both a seam and/or a rough plain edge

if you got an engrailed edge as john shows from www.coinraritiesonline.com then send it to www.pcgs.com for maximum value IF IF IF IT SLABS GENUINE

the weight for a genuine continental dollar

Weight: (17.92 grams) Diameter: 40.6 mm

still looks like a replica to me

good luck

)

all good looking gold coins

Thank you so much! I guess there is no need for a storage facility that caters to antiques and collectibles?

 

I can't find one (aside from one that caters to high end art) in my area. Therefore, I assume using the9999999 methods99999999 above may be the best way to go.

 

Thank you!

 

PS If anyone has any other suggestions, feel free to list them!

yes the 0000000methods000000 that tomb and i suggested are in my opinion the best way to go with also being the most economicall and convenient and also most private and also in my opinion the most secure because of the privacy issue as the less people that know your business the better off you are!!

and welcome to the boards (thumbs u

I would suggest you store your coins in a safe deposit box within a bank and then insure them via the ANA (Hugh Wood, Inc) or through another reputable insurer. I keep my slabbed coins in individual Intercept Shield boxes and then ten of these boxes go into a larger Intercept Shield holder. The larger holder box then goes inside of a Ziploc freezer bag and I have never had an issue with any changing in appearance for my collection.

totally agree as when i saw this thread i was going to say the same thing

and for climate control

you create a micro-climate like tomb did in his safe deposit box

many older banks on the east coast in states like penn. have older banks that are still operating but under new updated management that took over older banking concerns the last 20+ years and some of these older buildings with bank vaults have their sdb boxes mostly empty and this creats a good opportunity for the collector to open up a savings or checking account there and get a free small box but upgrade at a really reasonable cost to a much much larger box at quite a value price so if you have more itmes than coin slabs that are larger to store it makes a good storage facility

and with good sdb insurance it creates something that is a great value and one of the most secure, safe places to store collectibles

ode to an slabbed PCGS ms/proof70 coin (worship)

why oh why are you so expensive in your ultimate graded plastic holder

oh high and mighty PCGS 70 graded coin

and what tears of anguish and distain do you cry when removed

from your PCGS grand high exhalted mystic ruler holder

do you lose most all of your market value

and yet are still the perfect coin

because of the inflated/artificial demand and population controlled set registry program

why oh why does pcgs make you suffer so

poor PCGS 70 graded coin

and if your pops should increase then you lose demand hence value

break me out and set me free from all this pain

welcome to the boards!!

don't know

but crack both the ngc and pcgs both 70 graded same type and date coins out of their respective holders and they are now worth the same

so as james said pick a nice ngc 70 coin and save yourself some $$$$$

with pcgs it is all a numbers game with keeping the pops artifically low

think about this as per the below

what would happen to current pcgs registry players if for some reason some of their top pop coins that are either pop 1 or 2 would somehow turn into pop 4 or 5 or 6+ coins in the next 5 months due to submissions of the same type and date mintmark medal comp. ?? their prices paid would be greatly downgraded and they would be screaming to pcgs hence the numbers are controlled for certain series

break these pop tops that are 69 and 70 out of their respective holders and see what the current market value becomes

in other words only use discretionary income with pop top 69 and 70 coins with money you can afford to lose and you are playing for fun

if you cant do this then collect super nice hand picked coins graded a point down from the jump in price to 69 and 70 coins

below are coins with a fundemential reason to rise in demand assuming they have great eye appeal

small and large planchet pine tree shillings nice xf and above with original surfaces and well centered with post mint non clipped planchets and for the large planchet an original s wave not flattened down

early circulated vg/fine and better pre 1836 silver and gold coinage

seated coins fine and better fromn the 1830's

pre 1915 type coins circulated vf and above

proof 64 and above 19 th century proof coinage with great eye appel and cameo surfaces

original surfaced non dipped cameoed pre 1907 proof gold

matte proof gold pre 1916

choice original seated dollars vf and above

large cents vf and above

nice au and above three dollar gold

i am sure the list goes on and on but this is a good start

Very extremely interesting read. Finally, the purpose of the CAC, the reasoning behind it, and a glimpse at the modus operandi, all straight from the horse's mouth, as it were. I read the whole thing, and I recomend that serious collectors and those interested in the future of our hobby do the same - its long, but carve out an hour for yourself, get a coke, and read it.

(thumbs u

Removing the coin from its holder likely gives you a considerably better chance for an up-grade. However, in doing so, you lose the protection of the grade guarantee and subject yourself to the risk of a down-grade or no-grade. Either of those bad outcomes/surprises can occur no matter how good the coin might look. It's a matter of potential reward and risk and how big of a gambler you are.

i dropped a raw superb gem 1908 nm saint like 30 years ago while i was looking at it and put a huge rim dent in it

but the coin cost me 200 dollars and i sold it for 225 within the month so no big deal

that 1794 photo sucks victor

in person that 1794 is killer

but the photo is 100000000 times better than i can do

whomever you got it from is one sexy young gorilla

sweet great eye appealling coin zach

you are off to a great start

all superb coinage

post as many as you like on this thread

all superb eye appeal coins and this is the key with federal coinage

eye appeal

more and more the eye appeal facotr is becoming a more important part of the grading equasion

superlative thread tomb as usual for you

i expect nothing less than way above average from you tomb

a really rare item and with a fantastic story and just a plain neat token

michael